First stretch of "relatively" cold weather in the northeast (I think it was 35* this morning). I let the glow plugs warm up a little longer then usual this morning, maybe 45 sec and went to start the truck. It cranked longer then usual and eventually started up but wasn't a real strong crank almost like the voltage was a little low. The truck is a 2000 f350 CCLB with around 162,000 miles. I replaced both batteries last year and added a stancor GPR. I tested the GP at the valve cover harness last year and they ohmed out in spec. I am guessing it could be the starter? The voltage coming off the alternator seems good (14.2) and the connections all look pretty clean and tight. If it is the starter any recommendations on where to get one? new/reman? Somebody told me its not a bad idea to have mine rebuilt but I wasn't sure who does that kind of work. Anything else I should check or consider. It does start up strong after its warm. Last year when I was having trouble starting in the cold it took longer to start but the cranking was strong after I installed the new batteries. Thanks for any insight or help

 

I'd start with the free stuff, like having the batteries load tested. It's not uncommon for them to die an early death. Clean all the clamps/connections, etc. Check the grounds at the engine block to make sure they're tight. In the end, it may be the starter but it's not a bad idea to rule out the cheap stuff first.

 

It's as easy as a Voltage Drop Test to find out.

 

Yep, voltage drop test tells the tale. Visual checks on grounds are useless, by the time anything is visible that connection has failed altogether. Ya hafta put a wrench on them, disassemble, wire brush, down to bright metal.

 

I 3rd the motion for a load test on the batteries. Don't forget to disconnect the second battery from the primary battery when you do the load test.

 

Found a voltage drop test protocol on line. http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm They recommended disabling the trucks ability to start while cranking for the test. Is there a easy/safe way to do this on these trucks that won't affect the results?

 

The '99's have the starter solenoid on the right fender, jump wire it with the key off.

 

Mine did that as well with 1 year old batteries.. I took the out and had the tested, I had one bad battery ( or very low cranking amps).. they replaced a battery for free. So x 4 on load testing batteries.

 

Remove Fuse #30 (30 AMP)

 

Build this for under $20 - Courtesy Dan Sullivan Training


This is a LOT easier than it sounds on the internet. I do them a couple times a week on all vehicles. This drawing is easy to assemble a quick and effective way of connecting the leads, remain in the cab, and complete the test in under 2 minutes.

 

Thanks guys for all the help. whitetmw where do you get one of those switches? radio shack?

 

A lot of places have them. I think the center OFF spring loaded switch is best. You just hold it and when you let go, it returns to off, then do the other side. You can do it with one hand. Whereas with the others you have to move the switch from position to position.

The Small Project box you can get from Radio Shack.

I use a 50' Extension Chord and cut it in half. Used Phase Tape (Blue for one circuit, and Red for the other). Put it on all the ends and label the box where the switch is mounted and your done.

What's nice is: I can do a BIG Truck or Small Car Just as easy.

Check Out Daniel Sullivan on YouTube. I've attended all his classes over the years and have both his Books. Really simplifies everything. And you can do just about anything using just a DMM on DCV.

He also has a product called the LoadPro - This has virtually eliminated hundreds of hours of troubleshooting for me. I do independent Electrical Troubleshooting for several dealerships and shops, every time I pull it out someone buys one off the Snap On Truck (Blue Point). Then they call me to show them how to use it. Now I just refer them to the Internet and YouTube since Dan has all his video's on line.

Once you get the understanding, you'll throw engineer troubleshooting tree's in Work Shop Manuals under the Bus about 95% of the time.

I'm going to white a 300-400 page manual for FTE and post it after the first of the year.