7.3 overheat problem replacing injector cups
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7.3 overheat problem replacing injector cups
So the other day being the idiot I am, I ran over a fence post. Long story short, didn't know it poked a giant hole in my radiator and overheated my engine big time! Replaced the waterpump and patched the radiator up, found out I have a couple cracked injector cups, pulled the suckers out and some of the injectors came out with the cup stuck to them. And when I look into the injector holes, some have oil/fuel sitting in them, some don't have as much, I don't know if this is a natural occurrence? Was going to do a compression test but by the time I had all the injectors out I realized it was too late. So I don't know if I should spend $500 replaced the cups, clave gaskets and glow plugs? I don't know if the injectors are bad at all in any way? I don't know what to look for. They really gotta make it so you can upload images easier on this app.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
If you had injector cups come out with injectors, I'd have to say it's definitely time to replace them all. Something destroyed the sealant bond in those, and the others probably aren't far behind.
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Just the one thing I'm hoping didn't happen is a warped head or valve or something. I'm figuring these are upgraded injectors seeing that when I bought the truck it seemed to be a lot faster than stock. (And no it's not tuned) so when me and my brother took the valve cover off we exposed to what was a quarter holding the injector harness on. I don't know how to explain it, but the quarter was used to push the connecter up so that it could not slip out. Was on both side, and the wires and everything looked new. Is there any way to tell if the injectors are well...not stock?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2013
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From: North Lake Tahoe
That is called the "50 cent" mod. Very common. I preferably would replace both of the harnesses with an OEM part. To me this is just a bandaid and is not meant to be a permeant fix. What happens when the connectors come loose is the engine tends to shake real bad to the point of a stall. The injectors were not getting the proper connection.
Edit: if they look new maybe fine to leave them but would check the ohms from the injector harness.
Edit: if they look new maybe fine to leave them but would check the ohms from the injector harness.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
I would replace all the cups to be on the safe side.
Typically upgraded injectors are single shot and require custom tuning to make the idle something that's not embarrassing. Besides, you're not going to get the benefit of upgraded injectors without tuning to go along with them, so I'd guess the injectors are stock.
Oil and fuel in the cups after pulling the injectors is normal. There are fuel and oil rails that feed the injectors so when you pull an injector, that oil and fuel runs out. The different levels have to do with the position of the piston. The ones with little or no fluid mean the fluid is down in the piston. Be sure to suck all that stuff out of the piston before you try and fire the motor up.
The quarters are nothing more than a shim that is placed in the connector to keep it from coming unplugged. Ford actually sells a set of shims for this, but they cost a tad bit more than the quarters. They also sell an updated harness where the shims are not needed.
Since you're this far into things, go ahead and replace the glow plugs too. Stay away from Autolite plugs. Motorcraft is the preferred brand here since the tips of the autolites tend to swell up and can break off in the head.
Typically upgraded injectors are single shot and require custom tuning to make the idle something that's not embarrassing. Besides, you're not going to get the benefit of upgraded injectors without tuning to go along with them, so I'd guess the injectors are stock.
Oil and fuel in the cups after pulling the injectors is normal. There are fuel and oil rails that feed the injectors so when you pull an injector, that oil and fuel runs out. The different levels have to do with the position of the piston. The ones with little or no fluid mean the fluid is down in the piston. Be sure to suck all that stuff out of the piston before you try and fire the motor up.
The quarters are nothing more than a shim that is placed in the connector to keep it from coming unplugged. Ford actually sells a set of shims for this, but they cost a tad bit more than the quarters. They also sell an updated harness where the shims are not needed.
Since you're this far into things, go ahead and replace the glow plugs too. Stay away from Autolite plugs. Motorcraft is the preferred brand here since the tips of the autolites tend to swell up and can break off in the head.
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The truck was tuned when I bought it. Just pulled the pcm to reset it to pass emissions haha
Alright, that clears up a lot. They don't look single shot. They got about 8 tiny holes at the tip of each injector. I would do pictures and stuff, but just seems like a pain to upload them all to a link that I gotta put on here.
Brake cleaner will work for cleaning the injectors and stuff right?
Alright, that clears up a lot. They don't look single shot. They got about 8 tiny holes at the tip of each injector. I would do pictures and stuff, but just seems like a pain to upload them all to a link that I gotta put on here.
Brake cleaner will work for cleaning the injectors and stuff right?
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Post Fiend
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From: Texas
You're not going to tell the difference in single and split shot by just looking at them.
Most of the time a rag with some diesel on it works to clean up the injectors. Some brake cleaner shouldn't hurt. Just be sure to get new o-rings on any of them you stick back in there.
There have been numerous stories about injector o-rings from the chain parts stores failing in short order. Alliant brand (makes them for Ford and International) are the preferred O-rings.
Most of the time a rag with some diesel on it works to clean up the injectors. Some brake cleaner shouldn't hurt. Just be sure to get new o-rings on any of them you stick back in there.
There have been numerous stories about injector o-rings from the chain parts stores failing in short order. Alliant brand (makes them for Ford and International) are the preferred O-rings.
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