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ok so i have a 1972 f250. it has the 460. i seem to have this issue mostly at night but has happened once during the day. i will be driving alone and i start to lose power. the engine starts sputtering then will eventually shut down. so i pull over let it sit off for a couple minutes and it will usually run fine for a little bit. the other odd part of this issue is the headlights will flash on and then off and when the rpms get higher the lights seem to come back on and work properly. this is really frustrating. any ideas? thanks.
ok so i have a 1972 f250. it has the 460. i seem to have this issue mostly at night but has happened once during the day. i will be driving alone and i start to lose power. the engine starts sputtering then will eventually shut down. so i pull over let it sit off for a couple minutes and it will usually run fine for a little bit. the other odd part of this issue is the headlights will flash on and then off and when the rpms get higher the lights seem to come back on and work properly. this is really frustrating. any ideas? thanks.
Fuel filter may be stopped up. Lights blinking on/off is usually caused by a faulty dimmer switch.
Sounds like alternator problems. Have your alternator checked. Check all wiring to and from alternator. Look for bad grounds, loose wires or faulty wiring.
Your 460 is a transplant. I think there are 2 separate issues, fuel delivery is impaired, fuel filter, dirty gas tank, something is blocking the flow.
+2 on the grounding, pull and clean the dimmer switch connections, stop in at your favorite parts house for an alt check, usually free. The truck may have sat a few years, someone added the engine and got it going again.
Do you have Halogen sealed beams? They draw more power and could be the old headlight switch is getting warm and tripping the circuit breaker. Thus it will blink on/off.
Just something else to check if the dimmer switch is not the problem.
Ditto on the fuel filter causing the stalling. Or if it stalls, reach out and unscrew the gas cap(see if it goes WOOSH when you loosen it). Might not be venting enough and causing a vacuum and the pump can't pull fuel.
When it stalls, go out and pump the throttle and see if it shoots fuel. If no fuel, you have a fuel things to check.
I agree with those above that you have multiple issues. Also 2X john that it's a transplant. So the PO might not have put the engine to firewall ground cable on it. Check for one of those. Also you didn't mention if it's an early points ignition system or if that 460 is out of something newer with Ford Duraspark ignition. If it is Duraspark ignition the ignition module is going out. It's an aluminum bodied module approx 4" X 6". Prolly mounted to the inner fender. Next time it stalls carefully feel that module. If bad it will be real hot. Once it cools a bit the engine starts back up.
2X all above on the headlamps.
thanks to everyone for the quick responses. just an update. i am going through and replacing a bunch of old stuff on the truck that could be a cause of the issue. this is all stuff i wanted to replace anyways. today i had the alternator tested and it failed so i replaced it and the voltage regulator. i also did the fuel filter and belts which were pretty old. i ordered a fuel pump and new headlight dimmer switch and will be installing those this weekend.
I agree with those above that you have multiple issues. Also 2X john that it's a transplant. So the PO might not have put the engine to firewall ground cable on it. Check for one of those. Also you didn't mention if it's an early points ignition system or if that 460 is out of something newer with Ford Duraspark ignition. If it is Duraspark ignition the ignition module is going out. It's an aluminum bodied module approx 4" X 6". Prolly mounted to the inner fender. Next time it stalls carefully feel that module. If bad it will be real hot. Once it cools a bit the engine starts back up.
2X all above on the headlamps.
Although I haven't gotten around to installing it yet, I have a Duraspark II distributor from a 300 and the Duraspark II module. I'm aware that the module can get hot and needs good air flow to keep it cool.
Most people just mount the module flat to the inner fender panel. This only allows airflow on 5 sides of the box, instead of all six.
I made some standoffs out of 5/16" diameter fuel line tubing so that it will raise the module up off the inner fender panel and air can circulate completely around the module, when bolted down.
I found my head lights flickering on me one moonless night about 10m while driving on a lonely 2 lane desert road in NV. that just started doing it slowly then going out for a few sec. longer each time until, I had to pull over as I could not see.
Lucky the road had very few vehicles traveling that night.
I had some of those cheap fog lights mounted on bumper that I had never needed to use. But, I stopped and checked that they were really on. Yup but not much good pass 10 ft' and good for about 10mph. I ended up finding a place to stop for the night.
And dove the rest of 300 mile home the next day.
I'll make this short the wire loom the runs to the head lights where it connect to the head light plug in the engine bay. Mind plugs together right near the hood hinge.
I found the plug contacts were corroded green, I tracked it down clean with a brass brush. Then put some electrical grease on the contacts and the plug lips to seal it from any moisture getting in it. That was 31 yrs ago and still is good to go never a problem again.
So maybe check those head light loom plugs under the hood also..
Orich
so this never ending battle continues. i got most of the above issues fixed. now the battery wont charge. i have 15 volts from the back of the alternator. once i plug the harness for the voltage regulator in the voltage drops to 12 on the back of the regulator and on the back of the alternator. i assumed the regulator was bad so i got another and nothing changed. shouldnt i be getting around 14 volts at the battery with the truck running? i am getting 12.
Yes at the battery should show 13.2+to keep your battery up. The Altn. Battery wire leading to the solenoid may be the problem. I think ford did a some type crimping another wire with it at leads into the cab. Maybe type of failure with it. Can't remember it it has a fusible link in that wire near the solenoid or not.. You may have remove the tape areas and inspect the Battery Hot wire..
Make sure all head lights are turn off while checking this Battery Hot wire there.
orich
thanks to everyone for the quick responses. just an update. i am going through and replacing a bunch of old stuff on the truck that could be a cause of the issue. this is all stuff i wanted to replace anyways. today i had the alternator tested and it failed so i replaced it and the voltage regulator. i also did the fuel filter and belts which were pretty old. i ordered a fuel pump and new headlight dimmer switch and will be installing those this weekend.
Your initial problem probably would have been dealt with by replacing the alternator. You probably needed the rest done anyway but I would've done one thing at a time. No telling what's the culprit now.
When trouble shooting, I usually do the obvious then move on from there. Once you start replacing A,B,C,D and E, now you have to trouble shoot a lot more at the same time to correct the problem.
Hopefully you kept the parts you replaced.
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