Hi, I've recently fitted a re-manufactured PS pump to my 69 F100 and although it seems to work fine it is pretty noisy. I thought my original one was noisy but this new one is even louder. Is this just how these pumps are?

Also my original pump had a fixing stud on the rear but the new one doesn't have this, although I must say that it still feels secure. Just seems a bit odd as this new pump is apparently the correct one for a 69 truck where as the old one was for a 66 truck.

 

You did use ATF, correct? I'm assuming so but I had to ask JIC. Look for any restrictions. Like a bent tube or kinked hose. May be air (bubbles) in the fluid but it's prolly a bad part.
EDIT,
Gonna give you Jowilker's advice he tells everyone. Jack up the front end so tires are off the ground. Start the motor up and turn the wheels all the way left and right 20 times or so. This helps get trapped air out of the system. If it works for you REP Jowilker.

 

I take it the pump you have is the Ford/Thompson (TRW) 'pencil neck' pump?

http://www.428cobrajet.org/sites/def...p-HBA-BF-1.jpg

This is a common problem (whining) in those pumps. It can be due to cavitation (trapped air) or, it can be due to pump damage from a lack of fluid --either being run low on fluid or, too much cavitation during installation that starved the pump for fluid and caused damage to the pump.

If you're lucky, it's just trapped air that needs to be bled out. Air in hydraulic pumps will make them whine. If you're unlucky, the pump is damaged.

In the dealings I've had with these pumps, it's best NOT to immediately fire the engine up after a new/rebuilt pump has been put on and filled with fluid. The idle RPMs of the engine are too high for the pump, before the fluid can fully circulate and evacuate the air before the pump can stay lubricated. This is generally when the new pump gets damaged.

On the end of the pumps pulley shaft is a 3/8" hex drive. If you're replacing a power steering pump, take a 3/8" hex bit (you can cut off a straight section of a 3/8" Allen wrench), chuck it up in a variable speed hand drill and turn the pump over with the drill/hex bit at a slow or moderate speed while someone turns the steering wheel from one side to the other, lock-to-lock for a number of cycles.

The slower speed of the hand drill won't burn the pump up before you get the system re-primed.

Keep a check on the fluid level in the pumps reservoir so it doesn't run low. You may also have to crack open the fittings of the hydraulic lines to purge the air.

After this procedure, you should be able to start the engine and check for noise, leaks and recheck the fluid level.

 

I've always pulled the coil wire out and cranked the engine over a number of times about 15-20 sec each time. All while the wheels are off the ground and turn steering slowly lock to lock a about 10 times BUT watch that the fluid does not over flow while doing this. The fluid should slowly go down as it fills your system as you keep turning the wheels add fluid as you go.

Then start motor idle and repeat working the wheels a few more time. If fluid has bubbles still some air in it. Then continue wheel lock to lock movement. None of the p/s hoses should touch any parts of the engine or the frame as this could cause noises
This works for me.
Orich

 

Thanks for the replies gentlemen.

To answer some of your questions, yes I filled the pump with type F ATF (which wasn't easy to find over here), though I don't know what the rest of the system contains - it's pink so presumably ATF, though can't tell what specific type. The pump does indeed have the 'pencil neck', unlike the one it replaced which has a wider neck with a twist fit cap on it.

That's some good info on the importance of carefully priming these pumps and how to do it, but unfortunately I simply filled it with type F, started the engine and went from full lock to full lock 2 or 3 times then checked the fluid again. At this point the level had dropped and it was foamy so I topped up again and repeated and this time it held its level. So, there may well be some air still locked in the system. I'll lift up the front and try the method described when I get back home from work today.

Here's a photo of the new pump fitted - given that it's apparently for a 69 truck and I have a 69 truck I was a tad surprised at how close the pressure hose has run to the exhaust manifold and dipstick....it's pretty much sandwiched in between the two and I had to bend the metal part of the hose and the dipstick a little to stop them all touching. The pressure hose connection on the rear of the old pump was in the same place but didn't come out of the pump as far so clearance was better.

 

The only thing I would add to this, if you're doing the crank method without actually firing the engine, is take the coil lead loose from the distributor end and ground the loose end of the lead to some bolt or point on the inner fender panel, etc., so it doesn't damage the coil.

This is VERY important if an aftermarket high voltage capacitive discharge ignition module, such as an AEM Twin Fire, MSD-6A, MSD-6AL, Mallory HyFire, etc., CDI ignition system is being used. That high energy needs some place to go.

 

Thanks amigos, all of you, who impart knowledge, to those of us who may be less informed, or experienced. I have gleaned lots of bits of info, that while seemingly not earthshaking, do in fact add up to quite a bit of very important 'Tribal Knowledge'. Kudos to this forum, and the brothers in old iron, both bumps & dents, that have shared so willingly. ND, John, Orich, Jeff, Area51, Ultra, and others, hats off to you guys..

Baja

 

If anything I've said or posted a picture of has helped you, then that's pretty much the point of a forum, like this. --share knowledge or experiences that can help someone else from wasting their time and making expensive mistakes.

 

2x on that one Ultra...

 

Again Ultra,
When I did my P/S addition/conversion, I posted lots of photos,and now it is on the thread for P/S conversion. Several guys have used what I did, to help them. You, and lots of others, have helped me in the past, and boy did I sure need it.. The 'Bump' & 'Dent' group is the best.

Baja