Tranny maintenance (?)
#16
I'll give my own Joe-shmoe scenario that I think is a perfect example of what Brian stated above.
My transmission was shifting normal but had a slight issue with TC lock up & temp was a little high without towing in cool weather. So I did a flush & filter change by fallowing Mark K's flush write up. Some clutch material & debris came out but not much so I thought I was free & clear.
4 miles after the flush the transmission went south. The fresh fluid that came out was heavily contaminated with clutch material.
Before I did the initial flush I had checked line pressure and it was close to normal (according to the ATSG manual). After the failure & before I pulled the trans out I checked line pressure again. Surprise surprise line pressure was almost non existent. I'm no expert but I can tell you after seeing the internals of my transmission it was ready to fail.
My belief is the detergents in the fresh fluid released all the residual clutch material that was happily packed away in my trans case and embedded itself into the solenoids and inner workings of the trans making everything unhappy. After reading Brian's writeup it sort of backs up what I was thinking may have happened. Was my trans ready to die? Yes. Did the flush speed up time of death? I'm pretty sure it did. Just my humble $.02
My transmission was shifting normal but had a slight issue with TC lock up & temp was a little high without towing in cool weather. So I did a flush & filter change by fallowing Mark K's flush write up. Some clutch material & debris came out but not much so I thought I was free & clear.
4 miles after the flush the transmission went south. The fresh fluid that came out was heavily contaminated with clutch material.
Before I did the initial flush I had checked line pressure and it was close to normal (according to the ATSG manual). After the failure & before I pulled the trans out I checked line pressure again. Surprise surprise line pressure was almost non existent. I'm no expert but I can tell you after seeing the internals of my transmission it was ready to fail.
My belief is the detergents in the fresh fluid released all the residual clutch material that was happily packed away in my trans case and embedded itself into the solenoids and inner workings of the trans making everything unhappy. After reading Brian's writeup it sort of backs up what I was thinking may have happened. Was my trans ready to die? Yes. Did the flush speed up time of death? I'm pretty sure it did. Just my humble $.02
#17
#18
I don't think the 4r100 is a "sealed" unit. Correct me if I am wrong but this was how I understood it.
I had a Tundra with a "sealed" transmission. It had no transmission dipstick and from the factory they say never replace the fluid unless there's a leak, failure, etc.
That is what I was under the impression is a "sealed" unit.
I had a Tundra with a "sealed" transmission. It had no transmission dipstick and from the factory they say never replace the fluid unless there's a leak, failure, etc.
That is what I was under the impression is a "sealed" unit.
#19
He said the over the road units like Allison never need to have a fluid change, but do require additives at prescribed intervals. With only one or two exceptions, these transmissions are only pulled when they fail and need rebuilding. Although they have prescribed intervals for fluid analysis to "catch thing early".
#20
I don't think the 4r100 is a "sealed" unit. Correct me if I am wrong but this was how I understood it.
I had a Tundra with a "sealed" transmission. It had no transmission dipstick and from the factory they say never replace the fluid unless there's a leak, failure, etc.
That is what I was under the impression is a "sealed" unit.
I had a Tundra with a "sealed" transmission. It had no transmission dipstick and from the factory they say never replace the fluid unless there's a leak, failure, etc.
That is what I was under the impression is a "sealed" unit.
You are correct. The 4R100 is not a sealed unit.
Sometimes we have found the "sealed" or often referred to as "non-serviceable" units meaning "no service needed" actually need and benefit greatly from a service or drain and fill.
Tundra's....Toyota/Lexus units have went way down in the last few years with longevity...
#21
Read through this thread and have some questions. First my truck has 143k now. I bought it with around 127k, shifted pretty ruff so my brother and I went to Oreilly's which reccommended there DEX/MERC stuff. We drained the pan and filled it with about 8qts. After that its been pretty strong.
Now my question is will it be OK to mix MERC V and whatever is in there by simply draining the pan and changing the filter? It would be easiest for me but I know the PO did not take care of the truck like I have so I don't want to screw it all up.
Now my question is will it be OK to mix MERC V and whatever is in there by simply draining the pan and changing the filter? It would be easiest for me but I know the PO did not take care of the truck like I have so I don't want to screw it all up.
#22
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As I said in my post "I'm not a Transmission Technician". This is kind of long but I was educated and I'll try to pass what he said on for you.
So , I spoke with my Transmission Buddy Shop Owner today (he co-owns a shop that does cars up to over the road trucks, Busses, and who know what else - He must do a $1M business a year. He's open Mon-Sat 16 hrs. a day with two shifts).
I asked him about the "Myth" of not changing anything if there was high mileage and no maintenance.
His response was that it's not a Myth. And, if you ask any reputable transmission shop they'll tell you the same: Leave it be. He said The Transmission Institute (I forget the name) has a whole chapter on how to advise customers who want it done and why not to do it.
Why? According to him its more of a seal issue than anything. Additives in the ATF (which he said is nothing more than Hydraulic Fluid in a sealed unit) are designed to keep seals pliable and extend life. However, with high mileage units not being maintained the additive is either tired or destroyed by naturally occurring acidity and other things and the seals, while wet are probably beyond there life span because of it.
He said the over the road units like Allison never need to have a fluid change, but do require additives at prescribed intervals. With only one or two exceptions, these transmissions are only pulled when they fail and need rebuilding. Although they have prescribed intervals for fluid analysis to "catch thing early".
He said introducing new ATF will cause seals to swell, built up deposits, caked dirt, and sludge (if it were overheated) to loosen and enter the system. Most probable result will be leaking following a few thousand miles. And, it will get worse until your loosing quarts, then gallons, etc. The next thing to go will be the pump seals, and then the unit due to lack of fluid lubrication.
So, with all this I asked him what he personally suggested. His suggestion was:
Have the unit pulled, cleaned, lines flushed, a new cooler, and reseal it. While they're in there they'll have a good idea of what may need to be replaced, providing there is no other parts requiring replacement you're in good shape. And if there are parts which need replacing they were on their way out anyway. He also said an oil analysis would give insight into just how good or bad the additives are.
I also asked him about external filters (because I have one mainly). His response is if it makes you feel better that's fine. The over the road trucks have them but a light duty truck?
I said what? His response was look, the transmission is not like an engine, there is no combustion byproducts, water, condensation, and so on contaminating the fluid. Trans Units are a sealed hydraulic system which only sees environmental conditions such as cold and heat. If you control heat and perform maintenance you should not have a failure other than normal wear and tear.
I said what about trapping particles? He said if you've got particles, you've got problems. The Magnet should be more than enough to contain the designed wear particles.
Hmm. I still keeping mine. But a guy with almost 40 years and the biggest shop in 500 miles, you've got to take some of what he says as knowledgeable. So this is all Bull or Fact. I'll have to start doing some serious reading and research.
So , I spoke with my Transmission Buddy Shop Owner today (he co-owns a shop that does cars up to over the road trucks, Busses, and who know what else - He must do a $1M business a year. He's open Mon-Sat 16 hrs. a day with two shifts).
I asked him about the "Myth" of not changing anything if there was high mileage and no maintenance.
His response was that it's not a Myth. And, if you ask any reputable transmission shop they'll tell you the same: Leave it be. He said The Transmission Institute (I forget the name) has a whole chapter on how to advise customers who want it done and why not to do it.
Why? According to him its more of a seal issue than anything. Additives in the ATF (which he said is nothing more than Hydraulic Fluid in a sealed unit) are designed to keep seals pliable and extend life. However, with high mileage units not being maintained the additive is either tired or destroyed by naturally occurring acidity and other things and the seals, while wet are probably beyond there life span because of it.
He said the over the road units like Allison never need to have a fluid change, but do require additives at prescribed intervals. With only one or two exceptions, these transmissions are only pulled when they fail and need rebuilding. Although they have prescribed intervals for fluid analysis to "catch thing early".
He said introducing new ATF will cause seals to swell, built up deposits, caked dirt, and sludge (if it were overheated) to loosen and enter the system. Most probable result will be leaking following a few thousand miles. And, it will get worse until your loosing quarts, then gallons, etc. The next thing to go will be the pump seals, and then the unit due to lack of fluid lubrication.
So, with all this I asked him what he personally suggested. His suggestion was:
Have the unit pulled, cleaned, lines flushed, a new cooler, and reseal it. While they're in there they'll have a good idea of what may need to be replaced, providing there is no other parts requiring replacement you're in good shape. And if there are parts which need replacing they were on their way out anyway. He also said an oil analysis would give insight into just how good or bad the additives are.
I also asked him about external filters (because I have one mainly). His response is if it makes you feel better that's fine. The over the road trucks have them but a light duty truck?
I said what? His response was look, the transmission is not like an engine, there is no combustion byproducts, water, condensation, and so on contaminating the fluid. Trans Units are a sealed hydraulic system which only sees environmental conditions such as cold and heat. If you control heat and perform maintenance you should not have a failure other than normal wear and tear.
I said what about trapping particles? He said if you've got particles, you've got problems. The Magnet should be more than enough to contain the designed wear particles.
Hmm. I still keeping mine. But a guy with almost 40 years and the biggest shop in 500 miles, you've got to take some of what he says as knowledgeable. So this is all Bull or Fact. I'll have to start doing some serious reading and research.
i do trans fluid and filter service every 30 to 35,000 miles.
i do this because i have noticed at around 35k miles the trans starts hunting between direct and OD.
after the service, no more hunting.
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