2001 F-350 w/automatic. 7.3L. 150+K miles. Have never done anything to maintain transmission. What do you suggest? What can I do in my driveway to maintain good performance? Have had little or no issues, just think something should be done without taking it to a tranny shop.

 

I have, over the years heard that if a transmission has never been serviced with high mileage jut to leave it alone. Although, I am not a Transmission Technician.

The Fluid and Filter are easily changed. Although, that model year does not have a Converter Drain Plug. Which will require a little different process.

I'm sure Mark K will have a comment. I'd go with what he says.

 

You should flush the trans, including the torque converter and replace the fluid.

When I priced it out, it was about the same as a local trans shop quoted me, so I saved myself the hassle.

Also consider an additional transmission bypass filter.

 

I'm not a Transmission Technician, either, but I have the exact opposite opinion. The fluid should be changed. You can leave it aloone, all that will happen is that it will fail at a lower mileage than if you changed the fluid.

All 2001 trucks left the factory with a drain plug in the torque converter. This truck will have one, too.

Me have a comment? Never! ;-)

Here is how I recommend changing the fluid: Changing ATF Fluid in a E4OD and 4R100 transmission - Ford Trucks

 

This is one of those automotive myths that started, because one person somewhere fit the bill. Just like "you cant mix synthetic oil and conventional" or "once you go synthetic you can't go back" and the lovely "you can't use synthetic in older vehicles"

Its all bologna.

 

I've heard that many times as well but it always sounded silly to me. New fluid is rarely a bad thing. I think this myth was likely created by folks who would drive their vehicles without ever giving any thought to the transmission until is started to act funny. Then they decide to change the fluid and it fails shortly afterwards and blame the new fluid when in fact it was getting ready to fail anyway.

Just a theory of mine...

 

That's my theory, too.

 

People have a much easier time blaming a fluid change for ruining their transmission than they do blaming themselves for not changing until it was already too late.

 

How do I find out which tranny is in my truck?

 

It's a 4R100 if it's an automatic.

 

Bingo on a full fluid flush. I can't tell you how many times I have got dragged into small claims court over this.


I will pose a scenario for the myth crowd....let's take a unit that has not had proper service intervals completed and has come in for a front seal leak. Trans works and drives perfect just a leak. The owner wants a teardown to make sure he isn't going to need an overhaul soon. Unit has 100K plus and teardown and disassembly shows nothing wrong with the unit. Friction elements look almost new, maybe have worn 0.001"-0.002", a little minor bushing wear but within service limits, bearings look good, planetary's perfect, roller clutches good. Torque Converter is cut open and looks good.

How many of you have opened up 100's of these unit's with this scenario?

If you have then you have witnessed the minor wear and normal amount of clutch/friction/steel and other debris has accumulated in the fluid channels in the case, valve body, solenoid pack, and pump assy. Then there is debris in the lip seal grooves, especially in the direct drum, bottoms and corners of drums (especially forward and direct) rear low reverse hub, grooves in the annulus (ring) gears. Anywhere there is a corner or a change in direction of an area, this stuff can/will/does accumulate. It is amazing how much of this debris collects in these area's. It is often referred to as Trannaise because it can be thick like mayonaise.


Next question....are their any type of additives in most ATF's these days that would/could act as a detergent?


Now what do you suppose happens if you were to pour fresh new ATF into these areas of this trannaise, accumulated debirs?



I would ask anyone of you to disassemble one of these kinds of units and then take some "new" ATF and pour it into one of any one of these areas with accumulated debris. Then report back what starts happening with this accumulated debris, trannaise.

Now imagine what happens when these areas of stored debris gets a blast of new ATF under normal line pressure from a fluid flush?



This accumulated debris that has been happily collecting in all of these areas gets a fresh dose of ATF and the ATF begins cleaning and washing it away. If there is enough of it, it will suspend in the new fluid and go to the solenoids and the valves in the valve body and pump Assembly.

A solenoid is an electric magnet. Take a solenoid that has some mechanical wear and give it dose of fresh debris and now you have a symptom. Or a 2-3 upshift valve sticks. Remember, the bores the valves ride in aren't brand new.

A driveability symptom will usually happen within 1 week.

What if this same vehicle, same scenario didn't have the front seal leak but has a fluid flush instead? Owner just buys vehicle, doesn't know the story or hasn't ever serviced it and thinks how could new fluid possibly harm my trans? It could only help right? Or the owner starts worrying that he hasn't ever serviced his trans and how could it hurt?

If you are convinced to do a flush, then at least change the filter. If the vehicle has less than say 50K, then a fluid flush is no problem. Any more starts getting risky.

In this situation, I recommend a normal pan drop with filter change. Then another in 6,000 miles. This doesn't shock and begin eating away at the "stored debris" with all new ATF and I have never had a comeback in a very high volume shop.

Safety and 100% honesty gains repeat customers in a very tough industry.

There's a reason why most dealerships won't do this. Same for almost all transmission shops. I see this all of the time. It's not a myth and if you think it is, then come spend some time in the real world where the mythbusters have busted this one long ago.

 

Brian, if I'm reading that correctly that means repeat the fluid and filter change after 6000 miles? I've been wanting to do a fluid and filter change on my Excursion as it has 232k miles and I have no maintenance history from the PO (original purchaser, single owner who was clueless on preventative maintenance). It was bone stock when I got it, since then I've done some things to it including a tuner and lift with bigger tires, which I know taxes the trans so I'd like to throw new fluid in there.

Just trying to make sure I get the procedure right for it. I did a similar process when I rebuilt/upgraded the TH400 in the Chevelle. First at 500 miles, second at another 500, third at another 1000. Now on to 10,000 mile intervals but it's a street/strip toy.

 

TransBrain your post relates to the samething I have been told by the local dealership & a hi-volume transmission shop here in my area,I respect the the brothers on this forum and have saved countless hours of troubleshooting not to mention $$$$ w/ their help, I am in the process of getting the parts and fluid together to do the transmission flush. I have mentioned in other threads my 250 w/ 284k and no record of transmissson maintenance that I am a little hesitate to do the flush but was going ahead anyway my transmission shifts fine I am just trying to get it to 100% all other fluids have been changed in the last 20k and today I see your post and I have to think again about this. You said change filter and the fluid lost doing so rite? And then change what`s in the pan 6000k later rite? Ok what if I don`t know if it is Mercon or Mercon V that is in it now will it cause problems if the two are mixed? I guess I am just trying to keep what is working working as long as possible Thanks.

 

subscribing...because, on a pan drop, you sure do lose a good amount of fluid, unless TB is say'n to put back in what is dumped out...

 

As I said in my post "I'm not a Transmission Technician". This is kind of long but I was educated and I'll try to pass what he said on for you.

So , I spoke with my Transmission Buddy Shop Owner today (he co-owns a shop that does cars up to over the road trucks, Busses, and who know what else - He must do a $1M business a year. He's open Mon-Sat 16 hrs. a day with two shifts).

I asked him about the "Myth" of not changing anything if there was high mileage and no maintenance.

His response was that it's not a Myth. And, if you ask any reputable transmission shop they'll tell you the same: Leave it be. He said The Transmission Institute (I forget the name) has a whole chapter on how to advise customers who want it done and why not to do it.

Why? According to him its more of a seal issue than anything. Additives in the ATF (which he said is nothing more than Hydraulic Fluid in a sealed unit) are designed to keep seals pliable and extend life. However, with high mileage units not being maintained the additive is either tired or destroyed by naturally occurring acidity and other things and the seals, while wet are probably beyond there life span because of it.

He said the over the road units like Allison never need to have a fluid change, but do require additives at prescribed intervals. With only one or two exceptions, these transmissions are only pulled when they fail and need rebuilding. Although they have prescribed intervals for fluid analysis to "catch thing early".

He said introducing new ATF will cause seals to swell, built up deposits, caked dirt, and sludge (if it were overheated) to loosen and enter the system. Most probable result will be leaking following a few thousand miles. And, it will get worse until your loosing quarts, then gallons, etc. The next thing to go will be the pump seals, and then the unit due to lack of fluid lubrication.

So, with all this I asked him what he personally suggested. His suggestion was:

Have the unit pulled, cleaned, lines flushed, a new cooler, and reseal it. While they're in there they'll have a good idea of what may need to be replaced, providing there is no other parts requiring replacement you're in good shape. And if there are parts which need replacing they were on their way out anyway. He also said an oil analysis would give insight into just how good or bad the additives are.

I also asked him about external filters (because I have one mainly). His response is if it makes you feel better that's fine. The over the road trucks have them but a light duty truck?

I said what? His response was look, the transmission is not like an engine, there is no combustion byproducts, water, condensation, and so on contaminating the fluid. Trans Units are a sealed hydraulic system which only sees environmental conditions such as cold and heat. If you control heat and perform maintenance you should not have a failure other than normal wear and tear.

I said what about trapping particles? He said if you've got particles, you've got problems. The Magnet should be more than enough to contain the designed wear particles.

Hmm. I still keeping mine. But a guy with almost 40 years and the biggest shop in 500 miles, you've got to take some of what he says as knowledgeable. So this is all Bull or Fact. I'll have to start doing some serious reading and research.