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C6 skipping second gear

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Old Oct 23, 2014 | 09:21 AM
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C6 skipping second gear

I posted a question last night about the modulator and solved it (vacuum line worked loose). But another issue I noticed that I think has been there for some time:

My transmission, when in 'D', literally skips second. It goes from 1 to 3. when I manually do 1,2,D it works just fine and second gear is just fine. what I also notice is that when in D, the shift to 3rd is a bit delayed, with the shift occurring around 20-25mph.

Is this an intermediate band adjustment? I know NOTHING about transmissions and interestingly, this transmission was just rebuilt in January 2014 with new valve body and I think a more aggressive shift (e.g. not so much the sloppy shift).

What do you all think?
 
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Old Oct 23, 2014 | 09:35 AM
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Was the modulator replaced ? and is the vacuum line at the motor vacuum tree connected an without leaks ? what vacuum does the motor pull at idle ?
 
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Old Oct 23, 2014 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by redroad
Was the modulator replaced ? and is the vacuum line at the motor vacuum tree connected an without leaks ? what vacuum does the motor pull at idle ?
Hi, modulator wasn't replaced after the rebuild in January. I put one on in June 2013 thinking that would help my old transmission, but the problem with the transmission was far worse. My only point was that I felt like the modulator was still good and so did my rebuilder

Yes, the vacuum line is connected at the intake. Remember my motor is from a 67 Fairlane, so there isn't the tee. I have a kind of square block at the base of my intake, on the right rear corner, where the vacuum source is. My truck had the provision of the two lines going down to the modulator, but someone had long since changed out to the single hose modulator.

I haven't yet checked the vacuum going to the modulator. Good idea, though. Last night I did report (separate posting) on having shifting difficulties, but that was an easy fix - my vacuum line had worked off down near the modulator.

I think this shifting from 1-3 has been going on almost since the rebuild...
 
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Old Oct 23, 2014 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by alchemist1
Hi, modulator wasn't replaced after the rebuild in January. I put one on in June 2013 thinking that would help my old transmission, but the problem with the transmission was far worse. My only point was that I felt like the modulator was still good and so did my rebuilder

Yes, the vacuum line is connected at the intake. Remember my motor is from a 67 Fairlane, so there isn't the tee. I have a kind of square block at the base of my intake, on the right rear corner, where the vacuum source is. My truck had the provision of the two lines going down to the modulator, but someone had long since changed out to the single hose modulator.

I haven't yet checked the vacuum going to the modulator. Good idea, though. Last night I did report (separate posting) on having shifting difficulties, but that was an easy fix - my vacuum line had worked off down near the modulator.

I think this shifting from 1-3 has been going on almost since the rebuild...
Check the kickdown arm to make sure it is adjusted properly on the carb .. If it isn't present make sure it is not influencing the shift points ..
 
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Old Oct 23, 2014 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by redroad
Check the kickdown arm to make sure it is adjusted properly on the carb .. If it isn't present make sure it is not influencing the shift points ..
I have no kickdown rod on my motor - the carb/intake/engine were replaced years ago and when I bought the truck there was no kickdown rod present. The kickdown lever on the transmission is spring loaded, so unless the spring went missing internal inside tranny, that shouldn't be an issue, correct?
 
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Old Oct 23, 2014 | 01:51 PM
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You have some things to check before we go any further here .. Your lugging your motor without a working kick down and with manual shifting you run the chance of over reving the motor ..
 
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Old Oct 23, 2014 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by redroad
You have some things to check before we go any further here .. Your lugging your motor without a working kick down and with manual shifting you run the chance of over reving the motor ..
In my experience, this has never been the case. The kickdown rod is only there to delay shift points under heavier acceleration. Under normal situations, the kickdown rod is never engaged. I have driven many automobiles and trucks without kickdown rods. True, they are more 'convenient', but that's the extent of it. Now if the actual lever on the transmission is 'bound', that could do something.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2014 | 02:51 PM
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Under normal situations, the kickdown rod is never engaged.
You mean like normal situations like using your truck as a truck carrying/pulling a load up a hill
 
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Old Oct 24, 2014 | 02:07 PM
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you're lack of a kickdown is not the issue. According to my old C6 book you should be checking out the intermediate band, intermediate server or valve body. I don't recall for sure, but I think if the trans works fine in 2, then that proves out the band and server...I would suspect one of the valves in the valve body associated with applying and releasing the intermediate server are having problems.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2014 | 02:33 PM
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I called the mechanic last night. He suspects the modulator (either bad or needs adjustment). I think the first thing though is to confirm that engine vacuum is sufficient at the rear intake manifold port that I'm using.

What tool do you stick in the modulator to adjust the shift? If it's the same hole that the vacuum hose attaches to, a small screwdriver won't fit in there?

Should I turn clockwise or CCW?
 
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Old Oct 24, 2014 | 02:48 PM
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I misread your first post, I thought you already replaced it...it usually take a small allen wrench...screwing in the screw will delay shifts. if you swap it make sure you put the small pin back in (assuming it is still there).
 
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Old Oct 24, 2014 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by dlburch
I misread your first post, I thought you already replaced it...it usually take a small allen wrench...screwing in the screw will delay shifts. if you swap it make sure you put the small pin back in (assuming it is still there).
I also read where not having the pin or pin screwed way out will cause the symptom I'm seeing. Hopefully this is the case. I've been driving this way for 9-10 months and no problems - just no second gear...
 
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