The Hellas do look good on the truck. Guess I'll go that way and put the SilverStars on Rusty - the poor guy keeps getting hand-me-downs.

Jim - Tell us more about the Osrams?

 

If the reflectors were that bad you'll see a huge improvement.

Any bulb with a filament is incandescent. (emitting photons because of heat)

Halogen lighting only differs because the bulb is filled with pressurized gas and traces of a halide, rather than a vacuum.
This keeps the vaporized tungsten from coating the envelope and allows higher temperatures.

From the Wiki;
Halogen cycle

In ordinary incandescent lamps, evaporated tungsten mostly deposits onto the inner surface of the bulb. The halogen sets up a reversible chemical reaction cycle with the tungsten evaporated from the filament. The halogen cycle keeps the bulb clean and the light output remains almost constant throughout life. At moderate temperatures the halogen reacts with the evaporating tungsten, the halide formed being moved around in the inert gas filling. At some time it will reach higher temperature regions, where it dissociates, releasing tungsten and freeing the halogen to repeat the process. The overall bulb envelope temperature must be higher than in conventional incandescent lamps for the reaction to work.

 

They were bad. Low beams you couldnt tell if they were on or off driving in the city with street lights. On dark roads you could tell. The highbeams worked but they didnt seem that bright either.

I am just worrying to myself quietly that I might have to adjust the headlight alignment down some but the light pattern I saw on my tests seems to be fine.

 

They are nice. Another thing, in watching reviews on Youtube, I did not see any for Hella`s version but I did for the cheaper AutoPal versions. They all talked about how they had to use spacers to make the headlight fit snug in the retaining ring. With these hella`s, I didnt have to do that, they have these feet on the back side that is designed to sit on the headlight bucket to allow the retaining ring to lock the bulb in place.

 

I've never had issues with melting anything with the 100/50's on full burn, but most of my nighttime driving is done in sub freezing temps and I seldom use the high beams on the big guy anymore.

This is low beams with a halogen on the drivers side, Bosch E-code on the pass, with an Osram 55/60 bulb, both on relays.


This is the same but stock wiring on the drivers side.

I need to take some new pictures, those are circa January 03...
lol

 

Look at that nice clean cutoff.

Perhaps it's never an issue in a truck with all the space and airflow.
A motorcycle headlamp shell is like the 'nerve center' where all the wiring ends up, and I did not do much riding in subzero weather even though it was my only transport for six years.

Since Rusty S now has a relay harness, lenses with a proper cutoff, and is getting a real charging system I don't see an issue running the 'weed burner' bulbs if you feel they are needed.
I had to get rid of the 80/100 bulb in my bike because I could not deal with fixing the melted wiring.

Gary,
Osram used to be a German lighting company.
Back in the '80's they were one of the few suppliers of high wattage H4 bulbs.
They are now owned by Sylvania.
Maybe they make the Silverstars?

 

I got the spotlights in today, while they are bright, they appear to be more of a wide beam spot light than a narrow beam.

 

If they sent you the flood lights instead of the eight degree Beam Spread spots, send them back.
It is Amazon after all...

Contact the seller before opening a dispute.

 

Go find a barn or warehouse wall and measure back 100'
See if the pattern is 15 or so feet wide.
These are not designated for road use so don't expect a collimated beam or tight cutoff.


Product Description

Xtreme - The Xtreme we do, The Extreme you have !

Specification:
1. LED Power: 42W （14 * 3w high intensity LED）
2. Beam type: SPOT Beam
3. Style: Round
4. Operating Voltage-30V DC
5. Lumen Flux: 3360 LM
6. Waterproof rate: IP 67
7. Color Temperature: 6000K
8. Working Temperature:-45 ~+85°C
9. Material: Diecast aluminum alloy housing
10. Mounting Bracket: Stainless Steel
11. Dimensions: 4.5" * 4.5" * 2.4"
12. Lifespan: 30,000 Hours

Applications:
1.Work/Day/Fog driving lamp,available in the auxiliary lamp for forklift,truck,earth-moving equipment,fire engine,ambulance and Motorcycle;
2.Offroad vehicles,ATV,SUV,UTE,4x4 etc;
3.Boat cabin lighting,hunting,camping;
4.Outdoor professional engineering lighting,such as construction lighting,mining lighting etc;
5.Outdoor living lighting,such as camping,fishing,BBQ etc;

Installation:
The lamp features stainless steel mounting hardware plus alloy brackets for mounting to flat surfaces. This allows the lamp to be used as an interior roof or wall lamp inside enclosed trailers or canopy.

Package include:
2 x 42w led work lamp and mounting kit

 

I will do that, I will probably make my way to the local truck supply to see if they can get me or locate me a push bar for the truck. The week I took off to do work on the land has been put on hold because the tractor we got overheats but the only problem we told it had was it wouldnt start some times. Never had that issue.

Aside from that I emailed the seller from Amazon and asked them about it, the box has six boxes with the following, 42W, 48W, S, R, 30*, and 60*. The 42W and the R boxes are checked but nothing else. I asked them what the R stands for and what angle are these spots cause they seem to be wide beam when I tested one out.

If I can get me a push bar this week and get it installed I can install them on the truck and then see how far they actually shine and see if they fit your 15 foot pattern at 100'

 

I wouldn't install anything!
Just take 2 pieces of tape and mark the wall.
Hold the light in your hand and clip some jumpers to the wires.
...Remember that LED's are polarity sensitive.

Without empirical evidence to validate your impression of beam spread, you are working yourself into a lather over nothing.

 

I guess it wouldnt hurt to strip back some of the wiring to seperate them enough so I can use jumper wires without the jumpers touching at the light.

How far the wall have to be that I test the lights on?

I shined them up into some trees here and they gave a what I can best describe a flood light field of view. I didnt run them long enough to take note if they were throwing light out to the sides as well but I dont recall the truck to my right being illuminated when I was doing this test.

 

I already gave you the formula, beam spread in degrees by a factor of .018, times distance.
If it is under 15' at 100' then it is ~7' at 50', 3 1/2' at 25' etc..
But when you get that close, saturation and dazzle become another issue with something this bright.

How did you power the light before???

 

I used jumper wires while holding the light between my palms while using my fingers to hold the wires apart.

I also used the jumper wires attached to the trucks battery with the truck off.

 

Ah, so you need another set of hands to point it at the broad side of a barn...