That's called Marketing - it includes more than just "selling" a product but also warehousing, packaging, advertising, presentation, making it available to those who need it. Effective marketing is more than just having a product for sale, you have to let people know that.

 

So, DB or Ebay sellers don't have to warehouse, package and deliver their product?
They aren't doing it at a loss!

 

Well I am still awaiting the money to be collected from paypal for those 9" spotlights I ordered, He better hope he does it by end of the day friday cause saturday morning if it doesnt get collected well then sorry I am cancling the paypal transaction and sending a email to him why I am cancling my purchase.

As far as the cost of the stuff from PA, I wouldnt pay that, I didnt even know of this company, I just did a search for 1G to 3G and another search for 3G conversion and it came up with that as one of the top recommended hits.

I will just pick up an alternator used from the junkyard and when it burns out I will replace it with a lifetime warranty 3G alternator from one of the local part stores.

If I am going to spend more money than I have to then I think I would rather have custom illuminated rocker switches made. A chinese vendor can make me one of the rocker switches as a DPDT switch with On-Off-On where it has blue LED lighting that with the dash lights on it will glow and say "Spot Lights". When switched in one of the on positions it will illuminate the spotlight logo. I am thinking this would be the way to go, use a diode and have one position for just the pushbar spotlights then in the other position it will switch on the push bar and the rollbar lights.

Only other option is to have them make a On-Off switch that says Floodlights and use that for my roll bar.

But yes, I havent really looked much into it but from the bullet point for the conversion seems like all I would have to do is just simply pull the dual sheeve pulley off my factory 1G alternator transfer it to the 3G, mount it in the factory location reuse the factory belt and from there its just a matter of hooking up a couple wires and running a heavy gauge charge cable.

I also think I will do like was mention and just loop the one wire to the battery terminal at the alternator. I will be running a heavy gauge cable from alternator to solenoid, not sure what gauge the battery cable is from battery to solenoid but that wouldnt be hard to go larger if need be.



As far as using buttsplice connectors, I am not a real big fan of them. Personally I prefer soldering all connections. Even if I am using a crimp on spade style terminal I will remove the plastic covering, slide on a shrink tube, crimp on the terminal then heat up the terminal and solder it then shrink wrap it. Even for the lights I will be adding on I will be using three weather tight exterior connectors. Each light will have one plug at the light by the push bar for removal of the lights, then the other one will be between the bar and the truck as I will run the wiring through the bar there will be a plug there to allow removal of the push bar if need be for some reason.

 

I'll never use a cheap butt crimp, I was just pointing out that they were included.
Probably fine for the current these wires have to pass.

This is why I said "a nickel's worth of solder and shrink tube"

You need to add a thin shim washer behind your V-belt pulley to keep it from binding on the case of a 130A 3G.
I'd imagine that a 95A case has the same issue, since it is made so the front distance from the mounting boss aligns the belt.

I have no problems running my dual belt (air pumps) pulley on the 3G in my truck.

 

Did you have to shim your 3G alternator pulley?

 

Yes.
Everyone who puts a V belt pulley on a 130A 3G does.

I suppose you could grind off the front of the case, but you only need like .015" to keep from binding

 

I assume it would be the same even for a 95A 3G alternator as well. Wouldnt be hard to throw on a thin washer to shim the pulley out a hair.

 

FWIW, with the days getting shorter I'm looking at installing some cargo lights to the lumber rack on my truck.
The factory style high brake & cargo light is obscured when the lid of my job box is raised (usually looking for a tool buried in there)

I've purchased a pair of 3" 12V 10W 700lm pond floodlights (meant for under water)
They've got 4' wires and I'm looking for some sort of weatherproof bulkhead plug to connect them to the cab.
Not sure if I want to pull a whole new circuit or just have them come on with the interior light.

Not intended to hijack your thread Rusty.
It just seemed to fit with the auxiliary LED lighting theme of this thread.

 

Thats ok, if this thread can help multiple people that is fine with me.

I went ahead and cancled the 9" 111w LED spotlights as they guy still didnt claim the money from Paypal on Friday so I cancled it and ordered a pair of 4 1/2" 42w spotlights off Amazon. Cost me more for less wattage but that guy wasnt shipping or taking the money so screw him.

They have been shipped but havent received them yet. Might have been crazy to be looking at those 111w spotlights anyways. Only reason I went for them is cause I keep thinking 4 1/2" is too small when the KC Daylighters are 5" themselves.

I have thought about adding some flush mount LED lighting to the down tubes on the roll bars I want to install for bed illumination. Not sure if I would do this or not but the wiring for all exterior lights on the roll bars or push bar was going to be fed through the bar itself and plug into a frame mounted circuit via weather proof connector. Can find those on Summit or Jegs. Not sure how big a gauge they come in but I know they offer them.

 

As has been pointed out multiple times, wattage is pretty much irrelevant when it comes to LED's.
There are so many doping agents and other factors involved that lumens is the only fair way to compare apples to apples.

You are showing 2x 2,590 Lm.
5,000 lumens is a LOT of light!
But 8° spread is not going to do much to illuminate the shoulders.

 

Correct. My friend at work he told me he has two of those small square four LED light pods that are only around 1,200 lumens a piece and he is able to light the path four jeeps ahead of his.

The 111w ones the chinese vendor said they are pulling 90w, but the lumen listed for them was 9,200. But I wasnt sure if that is at 12v cause thoses are 10v to 30v.

In the end I think I will be happy with the ones I got. Wont illuminate the shoulders much but from what I saw with these new headlights I installed they seem to throw light out to the sides nicely.

 

Beam spread has a factor of .018.
Eight degrees is under 15 feet wide at 100' and just over 40' wide at 300' (100 yards)

If these lights live up to their claim I doubt you'll have any problem seeing the road ahead of you.

The new Hella's look great on your truck BTW!

 

<<<@!1!@>>>

Thanks, I was a little concerned they would make the truck look euro looking. But I have to say once I got them installed they really give the truck a more agressive look.

Only complaint I have is the rubber dust boots on the back they dont crush down enough so the plugs dont fit on all the way I will have to drive the truck and see if they come unpluged. I dont think they will but I rather make sure.

Oh, another thing once I got the harness installed I tried out my old lights and the driver side sealed beam halogen the low beam burned out. So it was good that I had them cause the low beam was working a couple days earlier when I last used them.

I just dont know if I will stick with the 55/60w standard. I would like to upgrade to the Silverstars, but these bulbs dont look dingy they look like they are a 6,000k color which is what I was wanting. Not a warm white but not a cool white either.



For the spot lights, these are the ones I got, they are rated at 3,360 Lumens.


Price was fair for the lumens and they looked fairly good.

I also went with them cause of the 2 1/2" depth, they have a good amount of heat sink built into them.

 

Yes, those are the ones I saw.
The only pair of 4.5" 42W spotlights I could find on Amazon.

I'd imagine your old sealed beams were pretty dingy inside.
As the filaments age they shed metal to the inside of the glass envelope.
with these new housings you can change when the bulbs start to get black, or upgrade to Narva rangepower +50's or the Osram 80/85's, or anything with a p43t base.

Be careful with those 100W bulbs.
They will melt the rubber boot and anything else that sits against the reflector.
Ask me what a mess they made of all the wiring in the headlamp shell of my motorcycle.

 

lol Might not be something I want to even attempt. Another thing with my old headlights is that the chrome relector on the back side of the glass was fairly much worn away so I was getting light under the hood as well.

Thing I noticed is one bulb was a halogen bulb the other was an incandecent still.

I am awaiting real world road test vs just flipping them on parked on the side of the road infront of the house.