How did we go from suggesting a junkyard 3G on one side of the discussion and "no, a 1G will be adequate" to a 200A 3G? I got lost somewhere in this conversation.

I'm with Jim, this "regulator" is questionable, but then you knew that when you said it might be " too good to be true". However, let's await their answers before passing judgement. Perhaps they have a new shunt that'll carry 200 amps instead of 60 and give the right voltage (current?) to the ammeter. And, a neat connection device. Plus a replacement fuse and holder for the fusible link which is only good for about 60 amps and surely won't stand 100 much less 200. Let's await and see how the did all of this for $25.

Yes, this may be a really good deal as I doubt you could buy a fuse and holder for that unless you get it at the salvage. Then there's the shunt that'll handle that much current - another $25? And the connection block? It looks like $75-100 of stuff for $25.

 

Unless that regulator box is some how reducing the amperage and sending lower current to the ammeter circuit some how.

I haven't got a reply and I won't do an upgrade unless I can keep my factory hook ups for the most part. I do enough fabrication at work and dont care for the headaches.

 

If you are reading scepticism in my posts you aren't reading closely enough. I'm waaaaay beyond being a sceptic. This is a wild goose chase.

 

Well lets back up a little.

Lets say I purchase this wiring adapter for without the ammeter hook up and install a small case 3g alternator that wouldn't require modifying the factory bracket. Then run a 8 gauge wire that is fused.

Would this be an ok setup for a 3g bypassing the ammeter?

I just hate cutting and splicing the wires at the regulator just to convert. From my reading on this kit it just redirects the current to the alternator so you dont cut wiring.

 

If that's all it does then that approach should work. Let's see what they say. Or not.

 

I already said it's just a splice.
There's no way I would spend more than a nickle on solder and shrink tube to do what you are asking of it.

I think 8Ga. will be fine with a small case, but remember the 95A version can put out at least 125A -full field- and the 130A version will put out ~160 before it has a meltdown.

That's fine if the battery can absorb the current.
This is why I loop the yellow/white regulator plug wire directly to the output stud, instead of messing with something like that.

 

So looping the regulator wire back to the charge wire is all that needs to be done then?

I'm surprised that a 95A alternator can put out more than that.

I figure 95A should be well over enough for what I need. Long as I keep extra lighting small.

I think I will just go ahead and do this anyways. The ammeter when driving sits about where it rests anyways and maybe ill convert it to a volt gauge later on. Be nice if with the key off the ammeter converted will sit in the middle. But then no way to have it read discharge with no voltage.

 

There's dozens of 3G swap threads and diagrams.
The 2&3G regulator plug has three wires, yellow/white, white/black & green/red.
The green/red wire supplies exciter current to the alternator.
The white black wire is the stator wire and clips back into the single center socket of the 3G.
The yellow/white is the 'sense' wire and can sense output anywhere you put it.

Why would I drape it to the fender and back?

My regulator has a 14.35V set point.
I also have a 2Ga. charge cable and 2Ga. battery cables.
Where am I going to drop voltage? So why not just connect it to output?

The small case 3G has a design output of 95A.
It will do no harm running it there.
The windings and rectifier diode board will begin to overheat when pushed beyond 100A.

This is why internet jokers can say "200A" alternator.
Because that is where the windings and even the best (70A) diodes have a complete meltdown.
Yes 200A into a dead short, for about 10-15 seconds before it catches fire.

It ain't going to run there and you would need an inch wide Glimer belt to drive it.

 

Well it looks like this weekend I will hit up a few of the local junkyards to pick up a small case Alternator and the charge wire with the maxi fuse.

Its good to hear though that running a 95A 3G alternator up to 95A wont hurt it.

Cause since I have desided to say screw it and just bypass my ammeter for the time being and go with a 95A 3G, I have been looking at adding other LED lighting. Not going to go too crazy though, I put a personal limit of 25A for aux lighting. That means the roll bar lights I pick will have to be no more than 30 watt a piece. But I wont buy any of that yet till I see if I even get these 111 watt spotlights, the guy still hasnt claimed the money from Paypal and I will give him till Friday before I cancel it. Thing is though they are truely not 111 watt I think, a chinese vendor on ebay selling the same thing said the actual power consumption is 90 watt. Not too concerned with the wattage being 90 or 111 long as its around the listed 9,200 lumens.

I am also thinking if I ever deside to say screw it and modify the push bar I will be installing to install a winch I am not sure but I dont think I would have to upgrade the alternator again. Maybe I am wrong on that but I am not close minded to hearing otherwise. What was hard for me to finally accept this was I wanted to exhaust any possibility of going about this without doing modifications to the harness but it appears that it is just not possible so why the hell not swap to a 95A 3G alternator then I will just have to pull the pulley off mine and install it on the 3G so I can retain the double sheeve pulley for spinning my air pump.

 

Pick up the relay box while you are at it.

 

The relay box I was talking about with the four relay hook up for the headlights and aux. lighting?

I need to make a note of that to look for that as well. Dont care what year model ford it comes out of as I will gut it and install new wiring.

 

Yep. Many different Fords used those relay boxes. And pick up several relays as well.

 

Will do, only thing I will probably end up buying new is a three way toggle switch. Will allow me to switch off the dimmer switch signal to the relays so the auxiliary lighting wont light if I dont want them to. Also I need to get seven or eight weather seal connectors for the auxiliary lighting.

Only thing is I am going through ebay right now looking at my option for smaller round spot lights and I think I can stop after page 2 cause it seems theres only four different kinds being sold. Lowest wattage range one is 27w, highest is 42w.



~Update~

Found a nice rocker switch, trying to see if they make one of these in a On-Off-On or On-On-Off style.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-20A-ROCKER-SWITCH-SPOT-LIGHTS-BLUE-LASER-LED-ON-OFF-/271381588708?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f2f9a6ae4&vxp=mtr
The blue looks very much like the blue LEDs I used on my dash for the factory illumination. All I need to do if I can find a three position rocker like that I will need to track down a dash bezel that has the fog light cut out or one without and I will just cut out and mount this rocker where that fog light switch was orignally mounted at by the factory.

Might not look factory but the nice thing is the text "Spot Light" glows all the time with the headlights so it will match with the headlight/wiper illumination.

 

Here's some examples, just so you know...
I waltzed by the PA website.

Surprisingly the first link on their page is for grinding a Windsor bracket to fit the 130A 3G...
Untitled Document

Here they sell the Lester 7752 (the one that fits MY truck) for the "SALE" price of $219, down from $339.95!!!!
Replacement Ford Taurus Alternator
Here it is from DB Electrical for $81.60
DB Electrical - NEW ALTERNATOR FORD LINCOLN MERCURY 3.8L DB ELECTRICAL

Same Chinese alternator...
PA's 'retail' is more than FOUR TIMES the price anyone can get it for.
(I bought a Motorcraft reman on Ebay for under $75 delivered)

Here is a 3G regulator plug for the "SALE" price of $12.95, down from $14.95.
Replacement regulator plug

Here is the same 3G regulator plug (with butt crimps) from Ebay for $7 delivered to your door!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/291267270893?lpid=82
And, here is the same pigtail from PA, with one eyelet and one spade terminal crimped on... for the "SALE" price of $19.95, down from $29.95.
3G Conversion plug

I have no idea about this "upgrade kit" regulator thing,
3G upgrade kit -retains stock wiring-
But if it's worth $35 (or especially $45!) i'll eat my socks.

 

But, there is no magic in that approach. PA makes it seem like only they have it and you are happy to get it - and pay through the nose. Isn't that worth something?