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What is the voltage output variance on a FICM. I purchased a scanguage II and monitored my output and it was low. Performed the resolder on the output board. Voltages were much improved!.
However, today going down the road, the truck just flat out shut off. Scanguage showed 0 volts on the input side and 0 on the output. No matter what could not get voltage in or out.
Made the trip to Ford Dealer and picked up a new FICM. 900.00$ including core. Replaced it and still no voltage or start. Little did I realize that the new FICM was not flashed! They want another 250.00 to flash it, and the truck. Had just paid 200.00 to get it towed off the highway.
So long story, short, re-did the solder joints and behold I have voltage and truck is running again.
Monitoring it during driving shows out fluctuating from 48.5 high to 44.0 when I get on it. Input voltage shows 13.0 to 13.5. So with the output fluctuating like that is it better to replace the high voltage board based on the fluctuation? What would cause zero volts on the input side? If better to replace, are there any reputable dealers for the high voltage board? I have the 7 screw model.
Ficmrepair.com I have one and he does a very good job. Now load test your batteries individually, clean all battery connections including frame grounds and check battery voltage at idle. Usually a poor battery/charging system is what takes out a ficm. BTW the above vender will provide a better unit for about half the dealer price.
Wow, that dealership bit you in the shorts.. . To sell you a FICM and not mention it must be flashed and to not mention the power board is available is pretty poor.
If you want to go cheap, the auto chain stores are selling a Dorman replacement board at a reasonable price but you get what you pay for sometimes. I'd send the new one (if you still have it) to Ed at ficmrepair.com and let him go through it. Many good customer reports here for his work, prices, and turn around time. He does repairs and offers different power levels on the software.
The run/no run problem is likely the connectors, they can be a booger to get on correctly and are easily damaged. It could also be a weak power relay in the fuse box or wire chaffing.
Thanks everyone for the quick feedback!! Excellent!
The box stores have the high voltage board but only in the 4 screw variety. The 900 dollar unit is going back to Ford dealer with a few complaints!
I am wondering about the 0 input volts and if there is chaffing somewhere as I was getting after the harness putting the old one back in.............. tugged the harness fairly roughly, and if chaffing might have pulled it off the metal ground.
Just drove it again and so far after putting the old one back together have the same fluctuations but truck is running well. Does anyone know what acceptable output ranges are? The 44 volts is a concern.
And I will definitely check out the ficmrepair.com.
and that bad FICM voltages kill injectors... If I were you, I wouldn't wait any longer with 44v outputs, injectors are not cheap. Add that cost to the FICM and your looking at $3000+ fix.
So long story, short, re-did the solder joints and behold I have voltage and truck is running again.
Monitoring it during driving shows out fluctuating from 48.5 high to 44.0 when I get on it. Input voltage shows 13.0 to 13.5. So with the output fluctuating like that is it better to replace the high voltage board based on the fluctuation?
I just got mine back from Ed at FICMrepair. $590 plus my side of the shipping charge and that included an Extra $150 for a bump in tuning plus some insurance. That includes the up charge for the lifetime warranty. Due diligence would require jerking the alternator and having it bench tested. Mine came back bad. He is quick on the turnaround. I had mine in the mail on Wed, in his hands Friday. I got a return tracking number on Sat morning and it showed up before lunch yesterday (Monday). Two new Interstate batts, two new alternators and a rebuilt ficm and hopefully a smoother running 6.0 by this afternoon.
E
and that bad FICM voltages kill injectors... If I were you, I wouldn't wait any longer with 44v outputs, injectors are not cheap. Add that cost to the FICM and your looking at $3000+ fix.
There is actually no proof of that, only hearsay and assumptions.
I would think with how the injectors misfire when trying to start with a damaged FICM it might causes some damage.
Certainly plausible, but I haven't seen it.
Before FICM voltage was understood a misfiring 6.0 was thought to have bad injectors. Only after those were replaced did the FICM become suspect. If the FICM was replaced first likely injectors wouldn't have needed replaced.
Once voltage is low enough the spool won't operate. If it doesn't operate oil doesn't flow to operate the plunger. No plunger equals no fuel. No fuel equals misfire.
Certainly plausible, but I haven't seen it. Before FICM voltage was understood a misfiring 6.0 was thought to have bad injectors. Only after those were replaced did the FICM become suspect. If the FICM was replaced first likely injectors wouldn't have needed replaced. Once voltage is low enough the spool won't operate. If it doesn't operate oil doesn't flow to operate the plunger. No plunger equals no fuel. No fuel equals misfire. Josh
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