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Stop worrying about the auxiliary solenoid, it doesn't enter into the equation, the auxiliary battery doesn't have anything to do with starting or running the truck. Just so you know, it sounds like the aux. solenoid is functioning normally. The solenoid is only "on" with the key in the run position. Turning the key to the "run" position you'll hear the aux. solenoid turn on, turn the key to the "start" position and the aux. solenoid will turn off.
Just want to let those that Know what I have as a set-up. I am researching the neutral switch as we speak and I am looking for fusible links to replace what may be blown. Also, does the voltage regulator factor into any of this? It seems to me it only deals with what is coming off the alternator. Another question, If I fried something with the loose ground off the main battery, what might it have been?
Something made all my interior lights blow and now it won't start so I am thinking there was a surge. I know the Aux battery is not the cause but just so we are clear- the batteries are wired in as a series. Pos/Pos and Neg to Neg. direct from battery to battery.
the batteries are wired in as a series. Pos/Pos and Neg to Neg. direct from battery to battery.
Not to be "nit picky" but your batteries are wired in parallel not series. If they were wired in series it would be +-+- and you would have 24 volts. (that would explain the blown lights )
I am going to go through the wiring (AGAIN) using some resources from blackjack33 . It has to be something simple so I need to quit over engineering it. I will take off all the fancy looms that dress up the engine bay and do some simple detective work.
A couple questions:
I don't like throwing money at a problem but is there a chance that I fried the control module?
Does it make sense to make my own mini harness that encompasses only what I need to get power to the solenoid from the ignition system? Seems like buying a new harness is a waste as I only need a section of it.
I am having those stupid batteries tested! I know that is not a question.
Thanks to everyone who has been helping me through this mess. (Next time I say something like "Hey, I'm taking my dash out"... please slap me. Thanks.)
Not to be "nit picky" but your batteries are wired in parallel not series. If they were wired in series it would be +-+- and you would have 24 volts. (that would explain the blown lights )
You are absolutely right Mike. IT Aint' a Caterpillar for goodness sakes. I am running 12 volts in parallel. I am about to take that stupid second set up out because I have ZERO use for it. It doesn't have a camper, it will sit in storage all Winter, and having that other solenoid with the OP's creative wiring is melting my motherboard. (Or OCD)
Next time I say something like "Hey, I'm taking my dash out"... please slap me. Thanks.)
First you say you want no neighbors to stop by cause they drink your beer and keep you from working on your truck.
Then you say "help Ill buy gas and beer is in the bridge".
No we can slap you. Are you on meds? lol JK
Sounds like a plan to just remove the duel battery set up, or at least take it out, that way its not part of the troubleshooting process. And if its possibly causing you problems and its not ever going to be needed.
If its a OEM set up, flip sale it on the FTE classified...always an option. I figured fmc400 would come save the day and then we all could learn some more electrical stuff.
If I'm asking people to come help. I forgot about the neighbors... LMAO
Meds don't work when it comes to electrical issues, that's for sure. FMC400 never returned the private message, so I guessing he's on the busy side, NP.
Yeah, the second battery is coming out. At least temporarily. Taking Thursday/Friday off to really get into this thing. I have a sneaking suspicion about the neutral switch, the fusible links, and that pesky red/blue wire.