Recommended:

Cooling system flush with Restore and Restore+ and distilled water
Refill cooling system with Final Charge ELC and distilled water (50/50 mix)
DFuser coolant filter kit
Motorcraft updated de-gas bottle
Motorcraft updated de-gas bottle cap
Motorcraft thermostat assembly
Fumoto block drain valves
Motorcraft block drain plug o-rings for Fumoto drain valves
IPR Research Gen 2 EGR delete kit
Motorcraft updated oil cooler
ARP head studs
Motorcraft headgaskets

Optional:
Install aftermarket EGR cooler (many different companies)
Install stealth EGR delete (Motorcraft)
BPD billet aluminum water pump
BPD billet aluminum radiator
IPR coolant filtration setup (100% filtration, not bypass)

I chose CLR over VC-9 or Restore or Restore+ simply because it's more readily available, cheaper, and I keep bottles of it at home for different uses (plumbing stuff, clearing clogged heater cores, etc.). I chose Final Charge ELC because it's stocked at O'Reilly Auto Parts and is readily available as well. The DFuser coolant kit was my choice out of all the units out there due to price, including 3 filters, and being easily rebuildable if needed. Some of you may have the updated de-gas bottle and cap. Easy way to tell is if your bottle has a sticker for the levels instead of the markings on the plastic and if your cap has the white sticker compared to being all black. Thermostat is replaced during a flush as it has to be removed anyways. The Fumotos are super handy, but you may have issues with the block drains stripping out and you will need to use o-rings instead of the flat washers they come with. I chose to delete the EGR because we have no emissions testing, plus I like the idea of not needing to worry about the cooler and I chose the IPR setup because it has a one-piece setup instead of the two-piece setup and has no welds to leak and deletes the blue silicone hose. For those of you that have emissions testing you can get an aftermarket EGR cooler that functions better than the factory unit. For those people who have emissions testing that is visual only you can simply weld the ends on your factory cooler and reinstall it for a stealth delete. We all know about the updated oil cooler, ARP head studs, and using OEM headgaskets, no need to go into that. It's been shown that the OEM headgaskets don't have issues if installed correctly whereas the aftermarket options have been having issues even with correct installation.

As far as the optional things - they are not things you should tear apart the engine just to install. More-so they are upgraded parts to replace parts that may eventually fail. The water pump and radiator are not known common failure items whereas everything else I listed is. The 05 and up had an updated water pump and they very rarely fail. If you do need to replace a water pump or radiator though these would be great items to install. I myself do not like the 100% filtration setup, but some do, so it's up to you if you want to do a by-pass filtration or inline.

Here's what my list currently looks like:

Perform cooling system pressure test, flush using CLR calcium, lime, and rust remover, and fill using FINAL CHARGE Global Extended Life coolant/antifreeze and Great Value distilled water (50/50) (86,264)
DFuser coolant filter kit (86,264) (last filter change at 104,613)
Motorcraft updated de-gas bottle (87,014)
Motorcraft updated de-gas bottle cap (87,014)
Motorcraft thermostat assembly (86,264)
IPR GEN2 EGR cooler delete kit (89,717)

 

What does Restore and Restore+ do?

Also what are the feelings about not using the VC-9. When I had
the top half of the oil cooler off this July and stuffed the bore scope
in and had a look the only thing that could be seen was the little
chunk of RTV (I did give the dealership chewing for that) and the
coolant filter has been clean.

I have reached the 30K point on this coolant and wanted to switch
to an ELC. The local IH has the Shell brand that they use in the VT-365.

They said that I did not even need to use anything other than water to
flush it with.

So I am looking for some thoughts on this, that and the other thing.

Thanks

Sean

 

Only use a chemical cleaner if replacing the oil cooler, otherwise, avoid it.

I do not feel ARP studs are a must-have.

Degas, cap etc are on an as needed basis.

Don't think a coolant filter is necessary either.

Josh

 

+1 on cleaners!

I switched to ELC with only water flushes and it is working well.

Obviously a lot of people run their 6.0L without a coolant filter, so it can't be called a "requirement for everyone". That being said, a lot of people pulled quite a bit of junk out of the cooling systems ... even in NEW trucks.

At 10k miles - here is what I pulled out of mine when I installed a filter :
https://www.ford-trucks.com/g/album/797670

I am very glad I installed that filter! Since that time though, I have not seen any solids on any of the filters I have changed.

 

subscribing
makes me rethink about a filter after seeing Marks filter

 

All I seem to be getting out of my filter is a fine
dust like stuff. No heavy solids at all.


Sean

 

One of many I've seen on silicate drop out.

http://www.wellworthproducts.com/articles/radiatorproblem.asp

Josh

 

My 1st two filters plugged up with a combo of Mark's black stuff and off white casting sand. 1st filter took app. 500 miles to plug and the 2nd app. 1500 miles. Been good ever since. I've had the truck since new and the filters were installed with less than 5,000 miles on the truck.

 

I was so glad to put on the coolant filter from diesel site, I just changed mine after 1 month 1200 miles, I couldnt see the flow through the tank. i cut it open and it was gross.

 

Casting sand is never white.

Josh

 

What ever you want to call it Josh. None ferrous, granular and my term was off white. Call it what ever you want, the filter got it. That's the bottom line.

 

Well after thinking it over I think is will just get a distilled
water flush and new coolant.
My filter never got more than the dust like stuff that settled
out of the stuff I dumped into a jar from the filter and nothing
in the filter when I cut it open.

So I am guessing that when they did the cooler and gasket job it
got a good flushing or was clean to start with (not likely) . But
you never know.

Sean

 

I agree, no cleaners unless you're going to sacrifice the oil cooler and replace it. Essentially the oil cooler turns into a filter and catches a good amount of the **** you're flushing through.

The ARP studs are not a MUST have, but they are HIGHLY recommended.

The degas bottle and cap are to be replaced as needed, but are recommended items to be updated when they do fail.

The coolant filter also is NOT necessary, but is HIGHLY recommended as well. I've had enough filters with casting sand in them to keep running them on my truck.

I agree, the coolant filter is well worth the money to keep the casting sand and silicates out of the oil cooler. Definitely water flush only if you don't intend on replacing the oil cooler.

If I were you Sean I'd just do a distilled water flush since you already put in a new oil cooler.

 

Mine has had a mixture of black and off-white sand particles as well from time to time. The first filter was BAD. Lots of sand and silicate goo.

 

Well out to buy a few gallons of water
and 4 of concentrate.

Like being back in chemistry lab. But I am not going
to run any cleaners. Just a water flush and fill.
I do have new upper and lower hoses that I will be
putting on. If I had a few extra $ I would of done the Degas
and the "Y" under it. But I can do that later.


Sean