Differences in Fuel Filters
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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I snap my lower filter in also. It may not make much difference, but certainly nothing wrong w/ snapping it into the cap before tightening.
Also, I always remove (drain) the water plug. Upgrade the plug and it twists off easily (no allen wrench required). IMO you never know if you have any water in there and you can get algae growing in water - doesn't take much.
Also, I always remove (drain) the water plug. Upgrade the plug and it twists off easily (no allen wrench required). IMO you never know if you have any water in there and you can get algae growing in water - doesn't take much.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
Never mind--LOL.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 1,347
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From: Lakeland, Fl
For any other tool junkies, here is the snap-on socket. Socket, Filter Flip, 24 and 36mm, 3/8" square drive
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,504
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From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
How's your little venture coming along, regarding the creation of a Fumoto valve for us (similar to what a 6.4L uses)? The last I heard, you ran into some pitfalls.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Riverton, Wyo
just out of curiousity, has anyone thought about changing the filter system over to a vertical filter system like used on big rigs? or would that not be a possibility because of the lower filter being in the fuel pump itself?
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
Not really a good option unless you go to an aftermarket fuel pump. The factory pump really works quite well if you use the correct filters and Dieseltech Ron showed exactly why.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,890
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Both valve companies (fumoto and oildrainvalve) don't think it is worth it. I am trying to drum up some interest in someone making a 90* elbow w/ the proper threads. No one is biting on it yet either. NOt going to give up yet!
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Josh
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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It is not just the thread pitch since the receiving thread (singular - one revolution) that is in the HFCM cover doesn't really seal at all. It is sealed with an o-ring. The plug itself fits into a shallow "well" that has a very slight shoulder at the bottom. The o-ring seals against the sides of the opening and it also serves to hold the plug in place.
FWIW the threads are M14 x 2
For 4WD trucks, the maximum length is about 1.5 inches.
FWIW the threads are M14 x 2
For 4WD trucks, the maximum length is about 1.5 inches.
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Certified Thread Hijacker
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It is not just the thread pitch since the receiving thread (singular - one revolution) that is in the HFCM cover doesn't really seal at all. It is sealed with an o-ring. The plug itself fits into a shallow "well" that has a very slight shoulder at the bottom. The o-ring seals against the sides of the opening and it also serves to hold the plug in place.
FWIW the threads are M14 x 2
For 4WD trucks, the maximum length is about 1.5 inches.
FWIW the threads are M14 x 2
For 4WD trucks, the maximum length is about 1.5 inches.
Would it be possible to take the original hex key plug and drill and tap that for a 90 degree elbow and run a small ball valve off of that?
Josh
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
Certainly that's possible but the drawback is that you get the "shoulder affect" that won't allow for full drainage of the water cavity.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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That is what a guy on another forum did. he put a solenoid valve on it to make it even easier.
I would not want to use the OEM plug because it corrodes, but if all you are doing is a one-time install, then it is probably OK.
I have an updated plug (brass) and will probably have a machinist at work drill it out and thread the outside of the knurled **** for NPT. Also, I would want the hole to be as large as possible so that draining would not be restricted much (edit - as Tim mentioned).
I would not want to use the OEM plug because it corrodes, but if all you are doing is a one-time install, then it is probably OK.
I have an updated plug (brass) and will probably have a machinist at work drill it out and thread the outside of the knurled **** for NPT. Also, I would want the hole to be as large as possible so that draining would not be restricted much (edit - as Tim mentioned).