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I'd concentrate on finding someone that can do a cylinder contribution test first so you can narrow it down to a cylinder or 2. Even if you have to pay an hour shop rate it will pay off instead of throwing unnecessary parts at it.
Update. It looks like it's sticktion as you said. Changed the oil yesterday and added ar9100 and it hasn't repeated the issue. So I will be going and getting the test done to see what injectors it is.
Update. It looks like it's sticktion as you said. Changed the oil yesterday and added ar9100 and it hasn't repeated the issue. So I will be going and getting the test done to see what injectors it is.
I know a cylinder contribution test will show a weak injector when cold. But if the truck is hot, will it necessarily she up if it is stiction? I've got a bit of stiction too, and have always wondered if s contribution test will locate the bad one or two injectors.
I'm running the archoil 2300 now with Delvac 5w40 in an attempt to clean the spool valves. I'll know how successful this is this winter, but it appears I'm getting 1mpg better mileage in the 1000 miles since the change.
We'll today they said injectors where good. Truck still had a very slight shutter and is starting to have an extended crank as the temps drop. I think I'm Gona send my ficm to Ed to get checked. The other question is with no codes do you think I should replace the ebp sensor and pig tail?
I was getting a bad shake, it would rattle everything.
Turned out to be the Fuel Injection Wire Harness, turns out they rub on everything under the hood even though they were upgraded in late 2004, they are still an issue, mine (2005) had about 3 spots that were worn through and 1 broken plug, most likely from the head gasket job at the local dealership, no codes at all, my new shop found it by wiggling all the injector plugs while it was idling, the harness is under $200.00, available everywhere, again pointing to a large number of failures.
Did you have a shake at idle? Mine idles fine only had a shake around 40 to 50 mph just slightly and only lasts acouple seconds.
Mine made a little more noise at idle and was pretty smooth, maybe down on power a bit, until about 50 MPH. Any throttle tip-in at all would cause the truck to shake, after about 60 MPH it would smooth out.
Unusual that the next reply said their #8 cylinder was dead, but that was the cylinder that was bad on mine and it was from a bad F.I. harness, that was the most worn spot, when the tech moved the harness the idle noise went away.
Can't say that's your problem, just sounds kind of like mine.
Oh, one more thing, 3 weeks after I had the F.I. harness replaced, the logic side of the FICM died, power side good.
I also have new batteries and alternator, 10 months old, no charging issues, good power.
Good Luck
What would cause excessive cranking when the nose is down hill only? I will post videos as soon as it starts working. Also went through the harness and didn't find anything to bad.
If I remember correctly, there is a seal in the HPOP that will cause those symptoms. When parked downhill, the oil leaks past the seal when it is parked....so when you go to start, is has to be primed back up.
If I remember correctly, there is a seal in the HPOP that will cause those symptoms. When parked downhill, the oil leaks past the seal when it is parked....so when you go to start, is has to be primed back up.
That's what I thought I couldn't remember if it did that parked up hill or down hill