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Getting the underboost shake again

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Old Aug 26, 2014 | 07:53 AM
  #1  
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Iaff113
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From: Frederick MD
Getting the underboost shake again

So I'm starting to feel a thump or loss of power again in my 2006. It is the same feeling when I was getting an underboost code and I replace the turbo and boots. Now it's doing it and throwing no codes?
 
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 07:05 PM
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From: Frederick MD
Anyone have any ideas. If it was an injector would their be a change in rpm or smoke?
 
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 07:17 PM
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What are you using to check for codes?
 
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Old Aug 28, 2014 | 04:39 AM
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From: Frederick MD
I have a edge cts. Last time it did this. It was throwing the underboost. Put a new turbo on due to center section being gone and replaced hot side boots.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 04:29 AM
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Anyone have any other ideas. Just trying to figure out what I should check next.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 09:04 PM
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Check and clean EGR, clean MAF with MAF sensor cleaner, clean IAT2 sensor with same cleaner, check EBP tube and clean sensor with same sensor cleaner. You might also check your air filter restriction gauge, tighten boost tube clamps, all of me to proper torque. Once you have done all this, and you might as we'll clean battery clamps, posts, grounds while at the air cleaner, EBP ect, then do a relearn on the VGT, tranny ect.

This is done by turning on headlights, disconnecting both batteries, and waiting 20 minutes for everything to go dead. Then you do a restart by first turning ignition to on, for 10 seconds, then off, for 30 seconds, then back to on for 10 seconds, back to off. This will command the relearn, now you can start normally. You will also be resetting your HVAC temps, resting mile o meter ect as well.

Once started, let it idle for a full 15 minutes. You may hear the VGT ramping up and down among other things. Then drive for at least 20 miles, to allow the relearn. If you don't drive enough it will throw. A code for drive cycle not complete.

I just did all this, please see thread re chugging and black smoke...... For now I seem to have solved my issue but I am not really sure till I pull my trailer.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2014 | 05:25 AM
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From: Frederick MD
Ok I will do all this and then get back to you. Thanks for the reply.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2014 | 02:37 PM
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From: Frederick MD
Originally Posted by mhoefer
Check and clean EGR, clean MAF with MAF sensor cleaner, clean IAT2 sensor with same cleaner, check EBP tube and clean sensor with same sensor cleaner. You might also check your air filter restriction gauge, tighten boost tube clamps, all of me to proper torque. Once you have done all this, and you might as we'll clean battery clamps, posts, grounds while at the air cleaner, EBP ect, then do a relearn on the VGT, tranny ect. This is done by turning on headlights, disconnecting both batteries, and waiting 20 minutes for everything to go dead. Then you do a restart by first turning ignition to on, for 10 seconds, then off, for 30 seconds, then back to on for 10 seconds, back to off. This will command the relearn, now you can start normally. You will also be resetting your HVAC temps, resting mile o meter ect as well. Once started, let it idle for a full 15 minutes. You may hear the VGT ramping up and down among other things. Then drive for at least 20 miles, to allow the relearn. If you don't drive enough it will throw. A code for drive cycle not complete. I just did all this, please see thread re chugging and black smoke...... For now I seem to have solved my issue but I am not really sure till I pull my trailer.
This resets the odometer? So your mileage reads 0. Also this seems weird. It seems to do it a lot more when the temps are on the 50s or lower. When temps are in the 70s or higher it hardly does it.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2014 | 05:13 PM
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It doesn't affect your odometer, only your trip and mileage computer, miles to empty will be recalculated from fuel Gauge location.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 07:38 PM
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From: Frederick MD
I cleaned egr maf and iat2 which all weren't that bad, took the plastic cold side intercooler tube and replaced with a metal one all new riff raff boots and still have the shutter and still no codes. Not sure what to do next
 
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 09:09 PM
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From: BC Canada
MAP tube clean, did you do the relearn successfully? Is your EGR functioning properly? Mine ended up being a bad EGR valve. Try running it with the EGR plug disconnected and see if it stops having issues, if so, it's the EGR valve. Mike
 
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 09:14 PM
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From: Frederick MD
I didn't due the re learn yet due to not having the time for idle and then the drive. I am going to do it in the morning as we'll as check the map hose, wouldn't a bad or non functioning egr throw a code
 
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 09:58 PM
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My EGR did not throw any codes, and that's what ended up solving it. I think it depends on the year and the program what errors it will show. My EGR was pretty caked and I think it had been about 30,000 miles since cleaning it. Do the relearn, if that doesn't work, and you have checked everything else, then try EGR disconnect. If it is not that, then it will still shudder and smoke. I have to say the new EGR was an immediate fix. When you replug in the EGR or your putting a new one in or cleaning t be followed, or you can get some pretty mixed up things.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 10:08 PM
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From: Frederick MD
When you put your egr back in did it not seat in all the way and did as you screwed it in?
 
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Old Sep 17, 2014 | 10:40 PM
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Yes, I had a bit of a time getting the old EGR to seat properly after I cleaned it, and getting the new one in to seat properly was even worse. Probably because of the he new o rings.

What I ended up doing was to push and twist to get it as far down as possible, then thread in the bolts by hand until they were to hard to turn, then used about 1/4 turn per side with a small 1/4 drive ratchet, alternating back and forth on both bolts to get it to go down the rest of the way. Be careful not to bend the ears on the EGR valve. You have to get it to go down straight or it will bind and the ears will bend for sure.
 
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