Today I'm installing a UHF/VHF radio in the X and after I got the cable run through the firewall I started looking for either a) the best route to the battery or b) a junction box the PO put in of which I have many.

So as I'm poking around on the drivers side of the engine compartment I find a large bore wire that terminates into a junction block with 'caution, high voltage' printed on the cover. This is right under the area where all the other junction blocks, relays and alarm from the PO are. Unfortunately the PO used wire who's gauge is to small for my current needs.

The block in question is shown in the following photos. It can easily be seen just left of the 86 written on the side of the relay. You can see a bit of red positive cable going into the black box below the relays.

My question is if this is an OEM box or something aftermarket.

Thanks in advance.





Zoomed in: Large gauge wire with red entering the box





Zoomed out for reference

 

Unless the PO was very **** about his cable termination (Used RED heat shrink) that cable looks OE.

Then again, he coulda used OE parts from another car found at the scrapyard.

Not sure why anything that doesn't have to do with the ignition system would be labeled, "High Voltage" on the Excursion though.


What year is your Excursion, and is it a 6.8 V10 or a 5.4L V8? I'll look for that junction block on mine when I get home.

 

Does your X have one of these installed?






If so then leave it alone, your X has the Flux Capacitor installed and you'll throw a CEL if you remove it

 

Just run it to the battery. Some rigs get finicky when the voltage drops. Personally I ran both the positive and negative lines to the battery. Fuses were installed at the battery on both lines. Inside I also had a fused distribution box for the positive line.

For the RF ground I just ran to the nearest metal ground. NAPA has braided RF ground cable if you don't already have a source.

Show some pictures when you have your radio installed!

 

Gotta agree with Gene here...when in doubt, run the power to the battery and bypass any of the OEM wiring.

I personally ran 8ga from the battery to a relay under the dash (used it for base power)...I can tap that connector to get always on power, or tap the relay to get keyed power (triggered from an 'add a tap' on the radio fuse). From there I run a BlueSea (marine) fuse block to divvy up the power.

8ga battery side (wrapped in loom):


Fuse block (pre-loom for fitment)...the relay is on the left side. To the far side of the block there is a 4 post terminal that gets me 'always on' power, then a short jumper comes from that to the hot side of the relay:


Yes, I should have put the block on the same side as I did the relay and the hot bolt for the fuse block, but I was drilling through the back side of the aluminum plate and measured out the holes wrong.

 

That is a damn clean install! That's probably one of the best I've seen if not the best as far as doing it yourself and knowing what you're doing

 

I like the idea of the relay. Hmmm. May do something similar and just add a switch to flip the relay when I want power with the engine off but don't want to leave the key in the ignition switch.

That would also allow me to work on things without going around front to pull the fuse.

Nice job!

 

All,

Thank you for the fast and knowledgable responses. I've been at work all day and am now just getting back to the FTE brotherhood. I'll do my best to answer in order:


1) Pele: 2002 V10 4x4
2) Apocalypse: thanks for the much needed laugh: it didn't get up to 88 mph today but I did recieve the international one finger salute from a guy in a land rover who passed me going way above 85.
3) Robert & Gene: I agree. I'll be running a full length cable to the battery to reduce problems and probably pick up and inline RF filter while I'm at it.

The PO was pretty **** about his install and although it's covered in road grime the relay pannel he had created looks like it was done by someone who knew what they were doing. Everything is sealed correctly, dressed in nicely and labeled using nautical terminology (fore, aft, port, starboard). As an aside, the install with the Blue Sea Systems junction block is very nice. They make some very nice components. I've been tossing around the idea of installing their 12v surface mount dual USB outlet to charge the phone from within the console.

As far as the PO and his previous install, he was kind enough to leave me the switch pannel pictured below which is only powered when the ignition is in accessory position or turned on. When I bought the truck all the wiring to the 12 (yes, twelve) exterior flood lights were controlled through here. The lights have since been removed and tossed as hey were corroded and of very poor quality. All the wiring is still in place for me to get back to when time, budget and my fickle LED lighting tastes permit.


6 switch panel.

The PO also left a nice 1/2" RAM ball mount which is where I'll be mounting the radio head. Ive included a photo which shows the mount, backup camera screen I installed as well as another switch the PO installed I've since repurposed to power the inline iPod accessory to the factory radio (ran the audio cable into the console so there are no exterior wires showing).



The radio has finally been remotely mounted and the wires run. I've yet to dress in the wiring or attach the antenna connector to the coax and radio so please bear with the in progress photo. I'm very particular and will be taking the time to loom and secure all the wiring so it looks clean where visible or it'll be completely hidden. I'll post more photos by this weekend. Here is the first install photo:




Under the drivers side middle row passenger seat.

 

BlackBlue, before you commit to that position for the head unit, check out the Kuda mount:
KUDA OEM leather iPhone GPS Mount for FORD EXCURSION (00-06) black

Before I upgraded to the F650 dash panel I had my FT7800 mounted in the same position as your photo, and it kinda sucked to have to count detents when changing frequencies. I didn't like having to look nearly at the floor to tune in a repeater, so I tried the Kuda and it works like a charm. No holes to drill (it slips on) and for me no holes for the radio/GPS/cell phone I have mounted to it since I routed the wires through the pocket of the Metra (or Metra knock-off) car stereo mount I have.

I'm on the iPad so posting pics sucks, I'll put some up tomorrow to show you what I mean.

 

Thanks. That's a very cool looking mount. I'd very much like to see how it looks installed on your ride. It'll be another long day tomorrow so I won't be able to proved my 2 cents until late. I keep meaning to check proclip USA for some sort off ash mount. They had a great one for my old Chevy.

 

hope this works...

 

WOOHOO! Never know if this iPad will do what I ask it to or not. That gap in the back on the first pic is gone. There is a tab there you can compress to make a nice tight fit.

 

I checked and that junction block is NOT on my 2000 V10.
In fact, the relay with the "86" written on it is not there either. That pair of relays is mounted longitudinally on the front of the main fuse block.

That block may have been added to supply power to the relay panel or to the lights. Halogen floodlights consume a LOT of power. That looks to be a 6AWG wire going to that block.

I'd have little problem running to that block for my radios.

73 de W3RPM

 

I'm sure that is an OEM box. Our 2002 V10 Limited we just purchased has the same box. The box has molded into the cover "Caution High Current" not "voltage". The large gauge cable (4 AWG?) goes from the battery thru this junction box thru the firewall. I think it is the main feed for the fuse panel. When the cable is disconnected nothing in the car works and the engine will not start or turn over. This cable is routed from the battery along the top edge of the radiator support cross member down the left side of the radiator to the left fender heading to the firewall. This seems like a vulnerable location for a high current cable that does not have a breaker. The battery end of my cable is in poor condition. When I rework the cable I was going to route it out to the right fender rather than straight forward thru the AC lines next to the radiator. I was also thinking of putting a high current breaker in this line, maybe 60 amp. But, since this line powers the fuse panel, maybe I should use a 100 amp breaker or more.

 

A recent discussion on that box here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15393014