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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Header/starter clearance?

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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 11:06 AM
  #16  
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Mini starter

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Rich
 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 06:26 PM
  #17  
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issue pulling the starter (hooked headers)


Hi guys,
I've finally gotten around to replacing the starter (getting to its last leg). I opted for a Powermaster hightorque starter from Summi. Soaked the header bolts,and they came out EASY (thanks!).

But, I can't seem to get the starter out, even with entire header and exhaust lost. Any tips? I'm thinking I may have to cut the exhaust to get the headers to angle where I need them.

Don't know if the picture is helpful, hard to get good shots.

Any thoughts?

From below, starter rotated 180 degrees.





 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 09:35 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by scurrytom

Hi guys,
I've finally gotten around to replacing the starter (getting to its last leg). I opted for a Powermaster hightorque starter from Summi. Soaked the header bolts,and they came out EASY (thanks!).

But, I can't seem to get the starter out, even with entire header and exhaust lost. Any tips? I'm thinking I may have to cut the exhaust to get the headers to angle where I need them.

Don't know if the picture is helpful, hard to get good shots.

Any thoughts?

From below, starter rotated 180 degrees.





.
Can you disconnect the header from the flange and pull it out? If not, I think what we did was disconnect the engine from the mounts ( one nut on each side). Then we took a floor jack and a 2x4. We put the 2x4 underneath the crank snout and put the Jack underneath the 2x4 and jacked the engine up a few inches. If you have a better way of doing it by all means do it that way. We didn't have a hoist at the time.
 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 11:36 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by tartar_sammich
.
Can you disconnect the header from the flange and pull it out? If not, I think what we did was disconnect the engine from the mounts ( one nut on each side). Then we took a floor jack and a 2x4. We put the 2x4 underneath the crank snout and put the Jack underneath the 2x4 and jacked the engine up a few inches. If you have a better way of doing it by all means do it that way. We didn't have a hoist at the time.
The header is welded/brazed throughout. That is what got me thinking about cutting the pipe right after the 4 come together (looks like that may be the coupler that was welded at install). That MAY allow the headers to angle out, along with the starter....a bit of a gamble.

Funny, we wondered about the engine mount idea. Your details help, as I don't have a hoist,either. May have to go that route if nothing else viable.
 
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Old May 26, 2015 | 04:46 AM
  #20  
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I have Hookers on my truck, after removing all bolts, I was able to remove and replace the starter. After doing that a couple times I stopped buying reman starters and got a new one from NAPA, and had a blanket installed. It has lasted several years now.


John
 
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Old May 26, 2015 | 01:06 PM
  #21  
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Hi John, was hoping you'd reply, as I know you have a similar setup. I've got a new Performance Hi Torque starter to put in. For the life of me, I can't figure out the puzzle to get the existing starter out. I've got everything on the header/exhaust loose. Doesn't look like I can shift headers enough to drop starter down. Perhaps towards the cabin and up? Do you recall? I know it's pretty case specific, but I've had a hand, and we still can't figure the puzzle. ..

Any thoughts could help. Thanks again everyone.
Tom
 
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Old May 26, 2015 | 04:32 PM
  #22  
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Sorry Tom, I don't recall the specifics, but with all the header bolts out that puppy has to bring his sorry butt out some way some how. Don't know what might be holding you back but my recall with the header loose, it came out.



John
 
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Old May 26, 2015 | 05:17 PM
  #23  
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Tom,

I don't know what headers I have - they are a rusty brand, that I know - but my headers needed to stay in, but swivel upwards some (collector down, and flange towards the cab) to give me the space to pull the starter. Then, only with the starter out, could I pull the header. But it pushed me to the brink of going back to regular exhaust on this truck. I have some stock manifolds in storage and I was 'this' close. But I'm good at it now that I have the secret, so headers stayed.

Clearly sounds like every header brand presents a slightly different experience.

The starter is far closer than I like and may look into a high-torque starter as some point. They don't always help with clearance issues since they are wider in one plane than they are the other. Maybe if I have more issues and have to pull it again I'll think about it.

On a side note, someone in the past pulled the PS header and broke a header bolt. Then drilled a new hole (upper front), but missed the center of the bolt by a mile. I now have (still) a 1/4" bolt there. Won't touch drilling it out with the heads on. My upside-down and backwards is broken at the moment. I debated pulling the DS header "while I was at it" and after soaking three days, it wasn't unbolting. I left well enough alone... for now.
 
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Old May 26, 2015 | 06:16 PM
  #24  
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Thanks guys. Sounds like I just need to work on my Tetris skills some more,and figure out this puzzle. I hear you about going back to stock, that's what my dad thought as he was jacking up his back trying to help me out, ha
 
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Old May 28, 2015 | 11:55 PM
  #25  
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I think my issue is that the header collector is welded directly to the exhaust pipe, rather than with a bolt flange. It is limiting how much I can move the headers. I ended up pulling the engine mount nuts, the bolt back at the transmission/frame (not sure if that was necessary, but easy to do),and then jacking the engine about half an inch. That allowed the nose of the old starter to come free and the starter to rotate vertical. I'm thinking another half inch to inch up on the motor, and the starter will drop.

Any precautions on raising the engine (more I sound detach, Etc...). Currently have to pry between the pan and the frame (with wood block between to distribute load at pan edge).

Should I cut the pipe between exhaust and collector and add a bolt flange set? Clamping those adapters ok? Brazing ok? Don't have welder.
 
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Old May 29, 2015 | 05:19 AM
  #26  
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Tom, Can you pry the header any away from the block.

Man you gotta get this project done.


John
 
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Old May 29, 2015 | 08:49 AM
  #27  
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I hear you, I'm trying to fit in time when I can, and needed to wrap this up. I'll try prying the header, but I think one of thr tube will hit the frame. The limited travel at the header's engine mount flange means the header flange and engine wedge together. ..in hoping a bit more engine lift and prying on the header get me there.

If I cut between header and exhaust pipe, that would really help movement, just not sure about the idea of adding the flanged bolt up couplers via brazing or clamps.

Thanks for the follow up, hopefully I wrap this up tomorrow.
Tom
 
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Old May 29, 2015 | 05:12 PM
  #28  
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Man if you have truck headers on your engine you shouldn't have to cut anything. Yank it's sorry *** out.



John
 
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Old May 31, 2015 | 09:47 AM
  #29  
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Finally got the old one out. It took lifting the engine an inch or so off the mounts, along with loosening header and tail pipe. I think the issue was the way the welded the collector directly to the pipe. It limited how much I could move the headers. There were two welds near each other, so guessing they cut and re-welded the last time a starter went in.

The new High Torque starter goes in with just the headers loose,no need to lift engine in the future. But, it's new, along with a heat blanket, so hopefully not needing replacement for A LONG time.

New starter starts the truck like a champ! Thanks all!
 
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Old May 31, 2015 | 04:17 PM
  #30  
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Glad you got it. Lot o hassle.


John
 
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