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The title says it all. I need some Bright Dark Blue Metallic. I don't really want to have to pay $35 + s/h for one spray can. I have a spray gun and air compressor. Where did you get your paint?
I've worked with TCP Global/Auto Color Library for larger orders. The smallest they offer is 1 qt so it may not be a good deal. Your automotive paint distributor may be better for a pint.
In general, single stage mettalics are very hard to spray. Lacquer is not to bad but enamel is very difficult. For the interior, single lacquer would probably be my choice though base/clear with a SG clear could be nice.
I've worked with TCP Global/Auto Color Library for larger orders. The smallest they offer is 1 qt so it may not be a good deal. Your automotive paint distributor may be better for a pint.
I was going to suggest them too, I've used them several times with good results but I checked, a quart of enamel single stage is $55.00 plus shipping.
It's all personal preference. I like to use PPG BC/CC Urethane. For cheap, you can go to O'Reily and Nason full base/clear. I use that on accident repair jobs. It comes out pretty well, but you have to work with it a little more to get a good finish out of it.
It's all personal preference. I like to use PPG BC/CC Urethane. For cheap, you can go to O'Reily and Nason full base/clear. I use that on accident repair jobs. It comes out pretty well, but you have to work with it a little more to get a good finish out of it.
I called O'Reilly, they said they can't get my color. Maybe Ford used the same paint on a later year model that O'Reilly would be able to look up?
I appreciate all the info, folks. The PO sprayed the truck flat black, but interior is original blue, and it looks like alligator skin on the bed now. Rust is showing through. I'm following the Rustoleum thread, very interesting. And cheap! The metal flake in mine will make it difficult, but if I need to I can take it down to metal (probably should've said "Bondo" there) and my bass player has a body shop with a booth, I could pay him to spray it.
I'm not doing a restoration (yet), just want to protect the metal, experiment and learn, so I thought I'd paint the dash while it's out just to see what I can/can't do. BC/CC, poly I suppose. If it comes out imperfect, it's no worse than it is now, you know? It's not a show truck unless the show is for how not to cover rust, and how much grease/oil/misc. the underside of a truck can hold before sagging the springs! This thing is a rolling hack job, but the plus side is that I'm learning an awful lot as every piece on which I've laid a hand either needs repairing or replacing!
Another thing to try is have O'Reily scan the dash. They have this device that can scan the color and come up with a mix formula. I bet they CAN get the paint, even though they don't have a specific listing for it.
That options list had a 4 speed overdrive listed. Option 6 in the picture.
What Trans was a manual OD for dentside trucks? I'd love OD without the fabrication required from a ZF swap!
Ford lists the ratios as 3.29, 1.84, 1.00, & 0.69.
<table border="1" cellpadding="7" cellspacing="0" width="98%"><tbody><tr><td width="20%">F-100/F-150</td> <td width="10%">1978-1984</td> <td width="10%">T170F (Code-RUG)</td> <td width="60%">Side mounted Overdrive (SMOD). Synchronized in all forward gears, with top loaded cast iron case. Used in 1978-84 Ford light duty pickups and vans. Similar in appearance to the Ford top loader transmission but has overdrive 4th gear. Three shift rails mounted to the left side of case. This unit was produced for cars also but with lighter duty bearings and gear train. Produced in 2 and 4 wheel drive versions.</td></tr></tbody></table>
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.