An Engine Rebuild/Refresh Thread
i certainly don't mind you asking, but i am afraid to add up the numbers :-) it would take some digging, but if you're asking about just the e-fuel costs so far, i'm probably at $500-600 at this point. thats just a guess, though.
i thought i was set on a TS6 chip, either with their own tunes or with Tony Wildman tunes, but i've been reading up on the DP F-6 chip and it seems like a nice setup with some good reviews. ...and at least the same cost (if not cheaper, if i'm not mistaken) than the TS chip, but with the flexibility of downloading tunes directly to the chip without uninstalling it and trying tunes out before you buy them... seems too good to be true ;-)
anyway - please weigh in with your opinions as i try to make my decision!
as far as my mods go, i have (or will shortly have):
Rosewood Stage-2's (160 cc with 80% over Nozzles)
T500 HPOP
S366 Turbo with intercooler
efuel
comp cam valve springs
0.080" wall pushrods
this seems like a pretty common build - anyone out there who has this care to share what tunes on their chip work best?
as usual - the help is much appreciated!
Why go with the yor-lok fittings instead of AN fittings and SS braid lines? Is your build the better way to go as far as vibration resistance, or is it more for easier on the road replacement if something breaks?
Check into the php hydra. I just put mine in. I got php tunes on it, but you can get many other tuners tunes on it too. It holds up to 15 tunes, iirc. Warning, to get the chip and custom tunes, it's not cheap.
this is definitely not the cheapest route, as these Swage-lok/Yor-lok/Parker a-lok fittings are expensive, but as mentioned above, they're supposed to be second to none in terms of flareless tube fittings in leak and vibration resistance. other vendors i've used are listed below.
McMaster Items
5182K807 3 Each Type 316 Stainless Steel Yor-lok Tube Fitting, Straight Adapter For 1/4" Tube Od X 1/8 Npt Male
5182K112 2 Each Type 316 Stainless Steel Yor-lok Tube Fitting, Straight Adapter For 1/4" Tube Od X 3/8 Npt Male
5182K125 1 Each Type 316 Stainless Steel Yor-lok Tube Fitting, Straight Adapter For 3/8" Tube Od X 3/8 Npt Male
5182K463 2 Each Type 316 Stainless Steel Yor-lok Tube Fitting, Straight For 1/4" Tube X 9/16"-18 Unf Male Thread
5182K464 1 Each Type 316 Stainless Steel Yor-lok Tube Fitting, Straight For 3/8"tube X 9/16"-18 Unf Male Thread
5182K821 1 Each Type 316 Stainless Steel Yor-lok Tube Fitting, 90 Degree Elbow For 1/4" Tube Od X 1/8 Npt Male
4429K361 1 Each Low-pressure Brass Threaded Pipe Fitting, 3/8 Pipe Size, Wye
8989K721 1 Each Welded Type 304 Stainless Steel Tubing, 1/4" Od, .18" Id, .035" Wall, 6' Length
8989K761 2 Each Welded Type 304 Stainless Steel Tubing, 3/8" Od, .305" Id, .035" Wall, 6' Length
30555T41 2 Each Rubber-coated U-bolt, Type 304 Ss, 1/4"-20 Thread, For 1" Od, 3/4" Pipe
2421A4 1 Each Tube Bender For Soft Metals, For 3/16", 1/4", 3/8", And 1/2" Tube Od (def a high quality bender for ~$50. says for "soft materials" but is very sturdy and did the annealed 3/8" stainless no problem. also does 5/16" in the 3/8" dies just fine. even comes with math formulae in the instructions for determining raw material length and predicting bend locations...)
Summit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FST-307030 (a cheaper alternative to the FASS regulator)
RiffRaff
Bosch Electric Fuel Pump - Riffraff Diesel Performance (what i thought would be the highest quality stock one out there. i'll run one and see if two are required.
thedieselstore.com
Stanadyne Fuel Manager FM100 Pre-filter Assembly with 3/8" NPTF ports & 4.3" 30-micron element (31865) PN 33641
Stanadyne Fuel Manager FM100 Heater Kit - 100 Watt - Top Load 12 volt PN 31341
Fleetfilter.com
BF7587 Baldwin BF7587 Fuel Filter (2 micron post filter)
24770 Wix 24770 & Napa 4770 Filter Base
and i just spent another $200 on McMaster tonight for fittings, valves and such for the filter bases and pump plumbing down on the frame. i'll post that list once i get it assembled and have some pictures for it.
one thing i will say about my setup if i had it to do over again: i would have not spent the time bending my own supply and return lines up the side of the engine, but rather just found a way to make the old ones work with modifications and minimal additional fittings. those stock lines do bend veeeery easily by hand and in the bender, so it probably could have been done, i was just stubborn and wanted the whole setup to be mine. ...and paid for that stubborness by wasting nearly a full day on those custom lines...
Thank you a grip!
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Why go with the yor-lok fittings instead of AN fittings and SS braid lines? Is your build the better way to go as far as vibration resistance, or is it more for easier on the road replacement if something breaks?
I did it this way as it was my DIY friendly - at least comsidering my abilities/equipment. Bending hardline is easy making ss hoses yourself is not! Plus those fancy anodized AN fittings ain't cheap either.
i thought i was set on a TS6 chip, either with their own tunes or with Tony Wildman tunes, but i've been reading up on the DP F-6 chip and it seems like a nice setup with some good reviews. ...and at least the same cost (if not cheaper, if i'm not mistaken) than the TS chip, but with the flexibility of downloading tunes directly to the chip without uninstalling it and trying tunes out before you buy them... seems too good to be true ;-)
anyway - please weigh in with your opinions as i try to make my decision!
as far as my mods go, i have (or will shortly have):
Rosewood Stage-2's (160 cc with 80% over Nozzles)
T500 HPOP
S366 Turbo with intercooler
efuel
comp cam valve springs
0.080" wall pushrods
this seems like a pretty common build - anyone out there who has this care to share what tunes on their chip work best?
as usual - the help is much appreciated!
I did it this way as it was my DIY friendly - at least comsidering my abilities/equipment. Bending hardline is easy making ss hoses yourself is not! Plus those fancy anodized AN fittings ain't cheap either.
Noted. Perhaps once the system is in, you can always make changes to what you are using. The biggest part is just the plumbing and wiring right?
Also, If you are an android phone user, there is a App developed for the adroid market that allows you to put a bluetooth connector on the Hydra chip and control the settings from your phone, stays on the last setting used... Works with other chips as well but was developed for the hydra. No apple support unfortunately, they wont let the App in their App store.
i thought i was set on a TS6 chip, either with their own tunes or with Tony Wildman tunes, but i've been reading up on the DP F-6 chip and it seems like a nice setup with some good reviews. ...and at least the same cost (if not cheaper, if i'm not mistaken) than the TS chip, but with the flexibility of downloading tunes directly to the chip without uninstalling it and trying tunes out before you buy them... seems too good to be true ;-)
anyway - please weigh in with your opinions as i try to make my decision!
as far as my mods go, i have (or will shortly have):
Rosewood Stage-2's (160 cc with 80% over Nozzles)
T500 HPOP
S366 Turbo with intercooler
efuel
comp cam valve springs
0.080" wall pushrods
this seems like a pretty common build - anyone out there who has this care to share what tunes on their chip work best?
as usual - the help is much appreciated!
Mind me asking the PN for your springs and pushrods? I also was curious if you tossed a set of ARPs in there with stage 2s? I am not planning on needing them with my dinky stage 1s, but am doing so when they tire out and we go a little bit bigger.








. I painted my pipes red last night.


