When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Oops. Double post. Here another question, how does the International water filter work? Is it a spin on filter to the pump or do you run hoses to a filter base someplace else? I know there is a big long thread on this topic but i can't use the search function on my phone.
The filter base is part of the water pump. It makes for a nice clean install
As always, I didn’t get as much done this weekend as I’d like, but did get the water pump on and the head studs in (see pics below).
Having done the mod work on the pump itself (grinding off the extra boss, swapping over the temp sender, and adding the heater return fitting), the bolt-up was quite simple. For those of you planning this in the future, don’t forget the extra/different screws you need – 2x 60 mm long and 1x 110 mm long (M8 x 1.25).
As for the head studs, I feel like I was not prepared for the amount of manual labor involved in that job. Swap out 32 bolts with studs, no big deal, right? well, busting loose the old ones is simple enough, but requires some leverage and force. Then, two-stage torqueing the studs to 85, then 125 ft-lbs is hard work! because of this hard work, I had to re-purpose my T4 adaptor plate. …a few times
I know it can and has been don’t, but this is not a job I’d like to do with the engine in the truck!
Wish I had gotten the LPOP done as well, but that should be a quick one.
oh, and i quick question on valve spring shimming. i've read through some procedures (mostly on other forums, to be honest) and it seems that 130 lbs is the closed seat force most people are using with the comp cam 910 springs i'll be using.
does this sound right? that works out to essentially the same as the factory installed height. ...so the plan is to check all the valve heights and shim only where necessary to bring it back to ~1.75"
also - i haven't seen anything about checking/replacing the valve stem seals. are they generally OK? i guess they would be if compression on the engine checked out OK - which it did.
thanks Glenn, but now that i think of it, stem seals shouldn't have anything to do with compression as the valves are seated against the head to close off the cylinder during compression.
the valves stem seals are to keep exhaust and intake gases out of the valve cover during intake and exhaust strokes... ...right?
that'd be awesome, Nate. the bills are piling up fast, but it'd be nice to have everything new while i'm in there - and not have to tear into it again down the road. aside from valves and seals, the rocker arm and spring retainers will be the only old stuff left under my valve covers when i'm done.
though the next question is - how would replacing the valve stem seals effect the procedure i'm planning on: i.e. with heads still on the block, i'll be installing the injectors to seal up that hole, and using my homemade compression gauge whip to pressurize the cylinder. i've read where guys have not pressurized the cylinder though and just made sure that each cylinder your working on is at the top of its stroke.
Can someone confirm that with the cylinder at the top of its travel, a valve could not fall into the cylider and the stem still be reachable from the top side of the head, even with the stem seal out?
since i have the oil pan off, it'd be quite easy to ensure that i have each cylinder all the way up before starting on that one's valves...
Correct. You won't drop the valves to where you can't reach them. You may want to do that instead of using shop air to pressurize the cylinder, but either way will work. You just can't do both unless you seal up all 8 holes or the piston will want to move to the bottom of the stroke from the pressure of your shop air. With the piston at TDC you won't lose the valves though, of that I am sure.
I'll check tonight. I got a bunch of parts in a lot of stuff I bought a year or two ago, and I want to say that there was a pack of Motorcraft valve stem seals in there. I need to check to be sure though.
I put new valve locks/keepers on mine when I did them. I always do that when I rebuild a set of heads. 20-30 bucks. Not all do this, it's up to you. I have seen results of a broken keeper. Not on a 7.3, but still.. I got some on ebay from a seller named falcon? I think.
On my heads I ended up with .045 shims iirc on each one. The actual installed height and seat pressure I don't remember for sure, and didn't write it down.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
