Wish I had done that method! Sounds like fun!

I just loosened the oil cooler and stuck a tube on a funnel down the output of the lpop. Filled it till I spilled it and I was good to go!

10 seconds of cranking and I had oil pouring out the filter input (which I left off intentionally).

Another 10 seconds with it back on and I had pressure at the HPOP reservoir.

All is good!

Now back to work!

 

I'm glad to hear that JP

 

Very nice!!!!! Its alive?!?

 

Woooo weeee JP! Man I am glad to hear it. I know I don't comment much on this thread, but its just because I don't have much to contribute....other than whoot!!!! Glad it's working out!

 

Good deal JP!!

 

I'm glad to hear that JP

 

So, she is not alive yet. I had some more electrical connections to make today before firing her up, but have hit a roadblock and had to quit for the day before solving it. I hate when that happens!

I thought I connected everything up properly and provided all the requisite grounds, but I'm getting the IDM relay clicking rapidly and the pcm's not powering up. If I pull the Idm relay all is fine and the pcm's powers up gives me WTS and my AF interceptor reads parameters. Put it back in and more clicking.

I've double and triple checked my ground and power connections, verified that the pcm's and Idm relays and fuses are good and checked all my injector residing connections for continuity and shorts.

Batteries are on the maintainer and voltage is 12.5 with everything off and 11.5+ with the clicking happening.

Tomorrow I plan to go check all the engine sensors to make sure none are unplugged or otherwise bad.

I will pull codes from the pcm with the Idm relay out, but not sure what that will tell me.

Anyone know of anything obvious that I'm missing that would lead to the Idm relay rapidly clicking?

 

It might not be what you want to hear, but do you have a spare IDM to test? If too many injector circuits go open at the same time, the IDM can be damaged. If the IDM has failed, it might be good insurance to remove the valve covers and check the locking clips. Or just replace #22 and start from there!

EDIT: PCM pushes the IDM, so maybe you have a bad PCM fuse.

 

Maybe a bad glow plug relay? Just a WAG. I've read where one can cause a no shut down type of thing with the engine. Try unhooking the power lead to it and see if it helps.

 

Swap the IDM relay with the horn relay and try it. Might just be a bad relay. Worth a try anyway.

 

I think I tried that, but I've done so much swapping and pulling of stuff in that box that I don't remember now!

Another hour on it this morning and still nothing but clicking.

Next step is to check every connection between the fuse box, pcm's and batteries. I feel like it may be a bad connection somewhere along the line that just can't handle the current of both systems running at the same time.

...or not - I hate chasing electrical problems!

 

Do you have another PCM to try?

Rusty

 

yep - i have 3 actually. i've tried 2 of them, but don't want to try the 3rd one until i'm sure its not a short somewhere else.

 

ok, so i'm nearly at my wits end here. not quite, but i've tried many things and she's still not starting. the situation is getting better, and i think i've narrowed the location of the problem down, but still haven't licked it.

over the weekend, i got the LPOP primed and working on Friday, then spent all of my available time on Saturday (about 4 hours) and all of it on Sunday (another 4 hours, maybe) going no where.

as i said, with everything plugged in, i turn the key to on and i get a rapid clicking from the IDM relay (definitely the IDM relay) and the PCM won't fire up. if i pull that relay, the PCM fires up fine, reads all parameters (through my aeroforce interceptor), and is otherwise happy.

so, i figured it has to be a low voltage or bad ground issue to the PCM/IDM that is drawing the voltage down when both are trying to be on at the same time.

- first, i cleaned all my grounds so that i am less thatn 0.2 ohms from any point on the frame/body/engine to the battery.
- then i cleaned and retorqued all the power connection. at this point, the clicking would only actually last about 10 seconds after key on. however, once i try to start it, the PCM dies (AF interceptor dies) about 1-2 seconds into cranking.
- i then cut out that "fusible link" on the engine fuse box feed wire where it connects to the starter relay. after doing this, the clicking duration dropped to just a second or two, but still the same thing on cranking.
- at this point, i pulled the engine fuse box power harness out completely and swapped it for the other one i have. i left the engine harness in place as its been modified for SD UVCH connectors. i did ohm out and test for shorty on all the injector and glow plug connections, though. this new fuse box and harness made things worse, though. the clicking duration went up instead of down and the same thing on cranking happened. also, the glove box light went very dim with this harness in.
- suspecting the dash wiring to the culprit, i diassembled the ignition switch, but found 12.3 volts (same as to the engine fuse box) at all feed lines.
- i then pulled the harness off the glove box light and found 8.6 volts there! also, when i would manually cycle the switch to off with the bulb in place, something up in the engine compartment would click, like a relay closing. but that was with Key off, so it shouldnt be in the fuse box. and the GPR is not hooked up now, so i don't see what it could be up there? AC clutch? anyway, i looked around awhile under the dash for any obvious wire pinches or rubs, but didnt see anything and it was late last night so i gave up.

i'm going to study the wire diagrams today and go at it again tonight. looks like i may have to pull the dash again, but i'll start by unplugging the courtesy lamp circuit first, i can.

any and all thoughts are much appreciated!

 

That's one hell of a goose chase this problem has you going on! I'm sure it's something simple too. And you're sure it's not the IDM? I was reading some other forums on this, and they all pointed to there.