When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
ok - well trying it hillbilly style - drilled 3 sets of holes, put in metal screws with a plate between each - have a 3 jaw puller hooked up and got it tight. I've cranked it a little and the seal doesn't appear to be moving. I saw on a you tube that some ford techs blue Loctite these in so that will make it super fun to remove. Should I throw some heat at it? Will that cause any unwanted damage to anything else??
Some come out ok, some are a pain, x2 on using screws though. You might be able to get away with putting a screw or two in it and working it out by pulling it with pliers. Just have to be careful to not bury the screw
ok - well trying it hillbilly style - drilled 3 sets of holes, put in metal screws with a plate between each - have a 3 jaw puller hooked up and got it tight. I've cranked it a little and the seal doesn't appear to be moving. I saw on a you tube that some ford techs blue Loctite these in so that will make it super fun to remove. Should I throw some heat at it? Will that cause any unwanted damage to anything else??
A little heat around it shouldn't hurt anything BUT, I'm not an expert with this engine.
Thanks guys for all the knowledge - I did manage to get it out without cutting - Used a Lisle bolt extractor set - worked great!! Next question, I believe this part (red arrow) is the rear main seal and has to be removed so I can pull cover. Manual says to drill holes on each side and pull it out with some sort of special tool - ideas on this one??
EDIT: Ok, looks like a slide hammer, yet again another tool I don't have - options to using a slide hammer to pull it off. Is it pressed in really hard? Could I simply use a hook set to pull it out?
You can simply remove the whole cover by sliding it off over the crankshaft flange at this point. At least that's how I did it.
I found it easier to "hillbilly" the radial seal out while it was up on my workbench. I ended up very carefully cutting the seal, then using dikes roll the metal where I cut it until it just popped out. As a precaution, the area of the seal I cut at would've been the top as it mounts to the engine, just in case I scored the inner surface of the cover/seal interface, I didn't want that to be at the bottom. But it worked out fine.
You have a seal install tool don't you? I believe it's PN 303-770. You will want it.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
