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Rear engine cover bolt stuck

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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 08:42 PM
  #1  
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Rear engine cover bolt stuck

I've got my motor pulled and am trying to remove the rear engine cover so I can attache the stand.

Got all but one damn bolt out (10mm) and it not only broke my socket but is stripped. I've tried to hammer on small sockets and tried a torch with heat on it - nothing is working!!! What the hell did Ford do to this bolt? The others don't seem to have any blue Loctite on them so I don't know what to do to get this thing out - Any ideas?
 
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 08:54 PM
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Blow the head off of the bolt with the fire wrench, remove the cover and use a pipe wrench on the remaining shank. It will be sticking up the thickness of the cover. Plenty enough to get a good grip on.

Damn Ford bolts
 
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by superv10
I've got my motor pulled and am trying to remove the rear engine cover so I can attache the stand.

Got all but one damn bolt out (10mm) and it not only broke my socket but is stripped. I've tried to hammer on small sockets and tried a torch with heat on it - nothing is working!!! What the hell did Ford do to this bolt? The others don't seem to have any blue Loctite on them so I don't know what to do to get this thing out - Any ideas?
I like the pipe wrench idea, if the bolt head is still there enough for the pipe wrench to bite it may do the trick.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 10:22 PM
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Striped bolt socket. You can find a 3/8 6pt and hammer that on it may work or it may get more round
 
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 11:18 PM
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Just wondering why you are taking the rear engine cover off to attach it to the stand.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 12:25 AM
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If you remove the top. before you go try to pop it off heat it up and them
spray if well with Kroil or PB Blaster while it's still hot so that you see
some smoke (Not Fire). Then let it sit for a few hours to do the work.


Sean
 
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 02:04 AM
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ok - got PB blaster working on it all night. I will try to heat it up again tomorrow and throw more PB at it. I tried hammering on a 6-pt 3/8 socket but it just rounded a little more. If none of that works, I'll cut it off and use the pipe wrench idea.. I hate dealing with these issues as it sucks up so much time.

As to why I'm removing it, couple reasons. I have to strip down my motor to probably have block repair done and with the cover on, the bolts (120mm) are not quite long enough for my "warm fuzzy" from the engine stand into the block. Last thing I need is the bolts striping and the motor landing on the garage floor.


I'm also considering scrapping this motor and going with a new re-man long block from AE. I really should check my damage before making a decision, but I'm not sure if I want to dive this far into a motor (pulling crank, pistons, etc..). Not to mention I have been unable to find a shop here to do the machining work... (Phoenix area)
 
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 10:12 AM
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ok - still no luck on this bolt. Any ideas how to cut the head off? It's recessed so I'm not sure how to get at it..
 
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by superv10
ok - still no luck on this bolt. Any ideas how to cut the head off? It's recessed so I'm not sure how to get at it..
Drill through the center of the bolt head with a drill bit the slightly larger than the bolt shank, take the drill bit and mark it with electrical tape to the depth you want to go so you don't drill too deep ( get the depth by looking at the bolt head thickness on one of the other bolts ) you will have to go slightly deeper than the head of the bolt to separate the head from the shank.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 10:30 AM
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And maybe use a Dremel/Rotozip or similiar tool to trim the outside edge of bolt head if needed.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Money-Pit
And maybe use a Dremel/Rotozip or similiar tool to trim the outside edge of bolt head if needed.
That'd make me nervous doing that unless you had a surgeons hand, unless you don't mind knicking the sides of where its recessed... If you go for drilling it out, take your time and make sure you stop and spray it with PB every so often to lube it up. Should back out fine once the cover is off
 
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 11:58 AM
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True, you don't wanna do it if you have the shakes...
 
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 01:04 PM
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you could also use a set of left hand drill bits, they seem to take the bolts out very well, like an easy out without having to drill the hole first.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 01:12 PM
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Thanks guys for all the knowledge - I did manage to get it out without cutting - Used a Lisle bolt extractor set - worked great!! Next question, I believe this part (red arrow) is the rear main seal and has to be removed so I can pull cover. Manual says to drill holes on each side and pull it out with some sort of special tool - ideas on this one??

EDIT: Ok, looks like a slide hammer, yet again another tool I don't have - options to using a slide hammer to pull it off. Is it pressed in really hard? Could I simply use a hook set to pull it out?

 
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by superv10
Thanks guys for all the knowledge - I did manage to get it out without cutting - Used a Lisle bolt extractor set - worked great!! Next question, I believe this part (red arrow) is the rear main seal and has to be removed so I can pull cover. Manual says to drill holes on each side and pull it out with some sort of special tool - ideas on this one??

EDIT: Ok, looks like a slide hammer, yet again another tool I don't have - options to using a slide hammer to pull it off. Is it pressed in really hard? Could I simply use a hook set to pull it out?

This is going to sound hillbilly as all hell (because it is) but, I have used wood screws and a harmonic balancer puller on seals like that. You will need to drill the seal, mount the puller and fasten to the puller with the wood screws and washers. Then use a plate across the center, tighten the puller bolt and it's out. Don't drill too large of a hole in the seal and don't go too deep. It's ugly but works.
 
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