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Aren't the double disc PSD clutches for the ZF-6 though? It has 1 3/8" input shaft not 1 1/4" like the ZF-5. I bought Justin Wheeler's 6.9 flywheel that is re-drilled for the 13" ZF-6 speed clutch, and Southbend has a friction disc with a 1.25" hub that will work with the 5 speed, but I have not seen any dual discs in that hub size. I've found 1 1/16" for the T19, 1 1/8" for the NV4500, and 1 3/8" for the ZF-6 but no 1 1/4".
That is impressive claim about the SX-E housing.... or wheel and housing combination. The SX were already great turbos!
Okay, so that is good news... at least it has the right hub. I wonder though what the flywheel is like and whether it would work with a drilled IDI single mass?? What clutch are you going with? The Luk SMF or something bigger?
As i mentioned before, the one i will be running is a LuK SMF kit. Seems to be the best option available for towing. If you look at the picture in the link i shared, you will see that the flywheel looks much like a DMF, not as simple as just drilling holes. That said, i dont see why "spacers" couldnt be cut, and they bolt into the flywheel. Thats why i want to find a used dual disk flywheel. I guess if i somehow find myself in an abundance of wealth, i might just buy the PSD clutch and wing it from there. Not sure if the flywheel has a different backspacing though, which would be the party ender.
Not to beat your thread to death with it... but I texted Justin today and he said you would have to drill the PSD flywheel to fit the IDI crankshaft bolt pattern and then match balance it. You'd probably want to weld plugs into the PSD flywheel holes, but the spacing does not overlap. It could be done, but it is neither easy nor cheap. Here is the pic he sent me of IDI over PSD crankshaft bolt patterns:
A few hiccups later, and actually being able to work on the thing, heres some pics. Going to pull the oil pump apart and clean it up / check it out. Then get the oil pan, heads and valve covers on and paint her up all shiny. Pics when it happens. First pic is after i got it back from the machine shop. Did some deburring on the block, and opened up some of the drain passages, and chased all the threads.
Got the shortblock back from the machine shop... again. They used the wrong size heli-coil in 4 of the bolt holes. Been making some good progress here the last few days. Minus a couple random bolts that are MIA, and a short list of parts to pick up, its basically together. Going out tomorrow for the bolts, t-stat, more paint, turbo drain gasket, motor mounts, and a bypass oil filtering system. Getting ready to go put the return lines on, get the IP screwed on, mount the oil cooler and dump some oil in.
Got to use the smith bros. pushrods i got from wheeler, they put the rockers nicely in the middle of the valve tip. Didnt clay the engine, but i did add .050" under the rocker via my feeler gauge and turned it over without binding either valve. So even with decking the stage 1 has clearance. I did however mention to my machinist to recess the valves to compensate for the decking.
Ill get some pics, but, engine is in. Everything is hooked up, shes full of oil. Whats left is mounting the turbo and associated plumbing. Been working little things like fixing the engine harness and rewiring the glow plug harness. New controller bracket has paint drying on it right now. I have to run to my mailbox (50 miles rnd trip) to get my turbo drain gasket (thanks Justin for forgetting lol), because it came usps instead of ups as i thought. Once thats done, bolt the front clip back on, mount the IC and figure out what boots i need to pickup. I keep forgetting about the exhaust, the down pipe definitely is tight, think im going to oval it out a bit where it passes by the firewall. Then the bottom half of the DP that came with my diamond eye kit has the wrong bend angle, so need to figure something out there, its off a good 20-25* dont think there is anyone nearby that can bend 3"
How do you guys that know, prime the oil system in these? When i mounted the oil pickup, i made sure it was as full as possible with oil, and that the pump had oil in it. The oil filter is of course filled. Thinking ill just pull the GP's and spin it over with the starter till she has good pressure.
Only thing stopping me from getting the front clip on is the down pipe. Been working on it for two+ hours. Its alot closer, but i need to cut the v-band off and change the angle. This thing is no where close to going in as is, hits the injector line, flange doesnt sit flush with turbo or even close for that matter, bottom of down pipe hits the trans. Shame, it was a purty lookin downpipe.
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