Headers
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Headers
I recently purchased a 79 F250 with a 400M. I am getting ready to pull the motor and put in a new one. While I have it out I want to put headers on it. Any suggestions? I would like to stay in the $200 ball park. I had a ford buddy of mine telling me about a certain kind not to get because I would have to do some frame cutting. I don't want to do that. I just want to put on some headers and drop it back down in there.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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Use the search function, lots of header threads already on here. If your budget is rather firm you can get Hooker's at Summit: Hooker Competition Headers 6902HKR - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing but I have no experience with them. In my opinion if you want good quality that you know will fit you need to be prepared to spend about 2-3 times your budget and go with Stans or Sanderson.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
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From: Stanley, VA
One thing to consider is the quality of the headers. I know you're trying to work within a budget but with headers something to consider is the quality of construction. A big problem with headers is leaks. This can usually be traced to very thin material in the header flanges. Some of the "economy" (cheap) headers use 3/16" thick steel for the flanges. This is almost guaranteed to leak. A good quality header will use 3/8" and some even use ½" thick material.
Wall thickness is another good judge, the lower the gauge number, the thicker the tube wall. Cheap headers use 18 ga., really good headers use at least 16 ga. and some go with 14 ga.
Wall thickness is another good judge, the lower the gauge number, the thicker the tube wall. Cheap headers use 18 ga., really good headers use at least 16 ga. and some go with 14 ga.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
The passenger side top side frame notch is a true story, its from a 460 swap in and they still use the car exhaust manifolds.
Yes better to get quality headers, (more $) than have to deal with leaks all the time. Ones that rust out in a few years, crack at the flange weld....
And I'd get $$ fenderwell exit ones, WAY BETTER IMO and less hassle when it comes to finishing the rest of the exhaust.
A lot of the inside the frame exit headers collector positions result in this....better have a real good exhaust man...routing can be challenging, to say the least.
Ck out the front d/s to header clearance in the one shiny truck shot...
And yes that is a pic #2 is HB with a notched crossmember.
Yes better to get quality headers, (more $) than have to deal with leaks all the time. Ones that rust out in a few years, crack at the flange weld....
And I'd get $$ fenderwell exit ones, WAY BETTER IMO and less hassle when it comes to finishing the rest of the exhaust.
A lot of the inside the frame exit headers collector positions result in this....better have a real good exhaust man...routing can be challenging, to say the least.
Ck out the front d/s to header clearance in the one shiny truck shot...
And yes that is a pic #2 is HB with a notched crossmember.
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highoctane74
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Apr 24, 2010 12:55 PM
