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So I scored a 90amp flux wire feed welder for fathers day.
Can you guys/girls give me some input and info on what max gauge or thickness of steel I can effectively use with this?
'm assuming I can't do anything too hardcore but I'm hoping I can do some light fab work and even body patch panels?
a 220 mig is where it's at. i had a 110 unit for 20 years, and did most of my welding with it. heavy stuff was done with the miller bluestar stick welder.
last fall the little mig started acting up and i went looking for a newer one. i found a lincoln powermig 200. i will never use a 110 mig again. the 220 machine will do the same job in 1/4 the time because it does not "fight" you to get the job done. the 220 machine will do in one pass what takes 2-3 passes with the smaller unit.
What would proper prep be? Cleaning up metals or something more?
Bigger = higher amps? At what amperage do you need to go 220 vs. standard 110?
Proper prep means beveling thicker materials for deeper penetration. A 3/16th butt joint will be inherently weak if simply welded on the surface. Beveling on both sides of the joint will embed the weld for a much stronger joint because of the increased affected surface area.
More amps the deeper penetration. A 220V circuit is basically using two 120V circuits at the same time. Think of current (amps) as water pressure and the welding wire as the water stream.... In other words, 220v to 120v is akin to a firehose versus garden hose.
A 120v welder is only good up to 3/16ths because there is simply not enough current (amps) to push the heat deep into the work piece. 20 amps is a typical household circuit... I have a 50-amp circuit (30a is minimum) because I now I can use 100 feet of 8/3 extension cord without suffering a significant voltage drop at the end... I can weld on the other side of my house or across the street if I need to.
Proper prep means beveling thicker materials for deeper penetration. A 3/16th butt joint will be inherently weak if simply welded on the surface. Beveling on both sides of the joint will embed the weld for a much stronger joint because of the increased affected surface area.
More amps the deeper penetration. A 220V circuit is basically using two 120V circuits at the same time. Think of current (amps) as water pressure and the welding wire as the water stream.... In other words, 220v to 120v is akin to a firehose versus garden hose.
A 120v welder is only good up to 3/16ths because there is simply not enough current (amps) to push the heat deep into the work piece. 20 amps is a typical household circuit... I have a 50-amp circuit (30a is minimum) because I now I can use 100 feet of 8/3 extension cord without suffering a significant voltage drop at the end... I can weld on the other side of my house or across the street if I need to.
Miller 211... do it!!
Awesome info makes total sense the way you described. It's been a lot of years that I did any welding so I'm all about practicing on whatever scrap metals I have in my garage.
I sort of had the feeling this little unit would make me want more.
with that unit i would limit material size to 1/4 inch max, bevel both sides, and make at least 3 passes with the last pass being wide enough to cover both pieces of metal.
Just use it for working on the body panels...then upgrade to a MIG that can use sheilding gas. I bought a Hobart 180 and it is cheaper than a Miller or Lincoln and works fine.
If I could afford one I would love to have a Miller Synchrowave.
When it comes to welders, a stick welder is much more versatile than a MIG welder. With one welder you can weld steel, iron and aluminum and can also use it for cutting. With the right electrode, you can weld anything a MIG welder can - and do it outside in the wind too.
If I didn't have any sort of welder and had to go buy one, it would definitely be a stick welder.
When it comes to welders, a stick welder is much more versatile than a MIG welder. With one welder you can weld steel, iron and aluminum and can also use it for cutting. With the right electrode, you can weld anything a MIG welder can - and do it outside in the wind too.
If I didn't have any sort of welder and had to go buy one, it would definitely be a stick welder.
When it comes to welders, a stick welder is much more versatile than a MIG welder. With one welder you can weld steel, iron and aluminum and can also use it for cutting. With the right electrode, you can weld anything a MIG welder can - and do it outside in the wind too.
If I didn't have any sort of welder and had to go buy one, it would definitely be a stick welder.
That is the funniest thing I've read all day. I do however agree with you100%. I will say there is a place for a stick welder. Although you can cut with an air arc, I could think of a lot of different ways to cut more effectively. What a MESS!!! Just my opinion
Last edited by postmortum; Jul 2, 2014 at 08:37 PM.
Reason: wrong emote
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