I would not do sheet metal with stick, but with something like a Miller Dynasty you can TIG as well.
A good MIG can do sheet metal, but trying to do thin stuff with innershield isn't fun. That machine is good from about .050" to .187", but will fight you otherwise.
When you do go to a larger machine, I would highly suggest getting a Miller with autolink, and infinite voltage control. Autolink lets you plug into any voltage from 110 on up, while the infinite control prevents having to work around a step in power.
Although anyone who thinks stick belongs on a farm needs to learn a bit more about welding- Nuclear subs are built with stick.

 

YEAH you'll want something bigger , my monster, this baby will weld anything !

 

Heck, even the equipment we use to build the subs and other watercraft are built by stick welders.

 

I will probably start a fuss on here saying this, but you can get just as many different opinions on the size and brand of a welder as you can asking what size motor should I run in my truck. It is according to what you will be using it for. I was a welder by trade from the time I got out of high school until I retired, and was over all the welders in a local chemical plant for several years. With most flux core welders you can add a solenoid valve so you can use it as a mig, that would be better suited for body work as a mig doesn't penetrate as deep as a flux core, and your machine would be capable of welding whatever you want to on your truck. Learn welding and hone your skills and then if you see your going to do a lot of welding and you want to made a bigger investment you can make the jump from a 6 cyl to a V8. Just remember a good welder can make a good weld with a lower end machine, but a top end machine can not make a decent weld with a bad welder.

 

Stick welders have their place... but not every place - I have yet to see it as a universal application. I've seen some amazing work with stick but on heavy structural steel and heavy equipment. Hence my extreme skepticism for body work.

If anyone is that good, then I'm all open to seeing what a skilled stick welder can do on patching an exterior body panel. Post 'em up.

 

Yeah, well, find me a chassis shop, custom car shop, nascar team, NHRA team, aviation company………..whatever; that use stick welding. None. Great, nuclear subs have thick steel and that would also be the most cost effective way to build them. Pipelines can be welded with a stick beautifully as well but I am damn sure not going to bring one in my garage to build a hot rod much less anything else. I know a little about welding………

 

I had a 220 degamig that I replaced with the Miller 211 I really like the Miller I have so far only welded in the 110v its dual 110v or 220v and has autoset where you put in the wire size and thickness of metel and it does the calibrations. It will also weld with or with out a bottle. Also hobart is made by Miller. Wish I got the spool gun when I bought mine because the dicount made it free. If your looking do some price checking Miller and Lincoln seem to run sales or free stuff.

 

Your little welder will work. Learn how to use it properly and stepping up to a better one will be easy. I started with a Lincoln Weld-Pac 100 flux core, then added shielding gas kit. Finally upgraded to the MillerMatic 211 and never looked back. Your flux core welder may come in handy for welding outdoors in windy conditions and as a portable unit you can use without dragging a gas bottle with you. The limited range of temp/wire speed settings is the biggest drawback on the smaller welders.

 

this is a very good statement

 

On some things such as pressure piping stick can't be beat.but on thin sheet metal the only way to go is mig or tig. Both has its pros andcons, with mig you have a constant wire feed, with tig the welder can controlthe amount of filler wire used and can use a softer filler, that means lessgrinding, less chance of warping, and better use of a hammer and dolly on thewelds. The big pro's of mig is it is capable of any welding on these old trucksand most of the welding a home hobbyist does, and it is the easiest type of weldingyou can learn. As for the size, type and brand of the welder all I will say is youcan drive a Pinto and it will get you were you want to go and even get you afew tickets, but some people like to step up to a Shelby, not for need but for preference.One option nobody has mentioned for bodywork is the use of body adhesive, it isapproved by the auto makers and no warping which means less filler and bodywork, you would still have some welding but not as much.

 

I have not welded for years. Maybe even back to my high school days nearly 40 years ago (oh geez) so my comments are of little or no use.
But from the perspective of someone who will likely only use the welder to install floor panels and other panels on their current project truck or perhaps another one down the line, are the 115/120v units up to the job? I hope so.
A couple of things differentiate the requirements needs for some of us (not counting bucks). Access to 220V and expectations of more extended use.
Some of you guys are "serious" welders and auto repair/rebuild enthusiasts. Some of us have an old truck we want to get road worthy. Count me in that group.
If I had easy access to 220V at both places I work on my old truck, I would probably look at a dual voltage unit. But I don't. I will have to look at the 115/120V options. For me that has narrowed my choices down to the Hobart 140 or the Lincoln 140 mig welders. Even considering dropping down to the next level Lincoln as it would save me $150.
But it is my understanding such units will serve my purpose and those of many hobbyists just fine.
Would that be an accurate assessment.
I even had a local auto restore guy once tell me he prefers the lighter duty units for welding up floor panels and such. Perhaps that indicated his skill level.
As to arc welding, man I could destroy some stuff with that. It was great for welding up headache racks and the like as a kid, but for the bulk of stuff on a pickup, not likely for me.

 

hillcountryfit you are right on. I have a 300 amp AC/DC Miller for stick and tig, a Lincoln High Fre for aluminum, and a 135 Hobart Mig in my shop. 95% of my welding and all of the welding on my truck is with the 110Volt 135 Hobart. The higher end Miller Mig is by fare the Shelby of the Migs, but I'll stick with my Hobart and put the difference in cost into my truck.

 

hillcountryflt, I think that Lincoln 140 would do you very well. It has the gas kit so you can add shielding gas. MIG with gas rather than flux core is the way I would go for body work. Flux core tends to run hotter (no gas to help cool the weld) and it makes lots of smoke, making it harder to see what's going on. I think you'd be very happy with it.

 

The only reason I include the Hobart is it's marketing stuff showing its wire feeder to be made of steel while the lincoln's and others of that category are plastic. Right now tractor supply has the hobart at about the same price as the Lincoln 140.

 

Hobarts do have steel feeders, normally just not as many gadgets as the Miller, but most people don't use all that anyway. Miller owns Hobart and both machines come off the same line, they also make Airco machines.