Rear diff setup.
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Rear diff setup.
1978 F-250 Dana rear end.
I am having problems with my rear diff, it looks like the pinion shaft nut has came loose and has been rubbing on the gear case(holds the crown gear). I think there has to be some sort of setup process to this, no to just tight the lock nut and call it a day?
I am having problems with my rear diff, it looks like the pinion shaft nut has came loose and has been rubbing on the gear case(holds the crown gear). I think there has to be some sort of setup process to this, no to just tight the lock nut and call it a day?
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Panama City
There is a process to it. Some special tools required. Dial indicator to set backlash, have to press bearings on and off for shimming the pinion, Not rocket science but you do need to know what you are doing if you want it to last more than a year. Also if it has come loose and rubbing in the case there may be more problems that arent readily visible. I would suggest you bite the bullet and research a good shop to repair it. Most likely gonna co$t a $ub$tantial bit of ca$h.
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Stanley, VA
You're correct, there is a detailed procedure to follow with setting the pinion depth and pinion bearing preload.
However, in this case I would tighten the pinion nut down and see what happens.
Remove the driveshaft, set the parking brake. Then get a ½" breaker bar and appropriate size socket and tighten the nut down. Don't get carried away though, I can't remember if the Dana uses shims or a crush sleeve to set the preload. If it's shims, how tight doesn't matter, if it's a crush sleeve you can tighten it too tight and change the preload.
Put the driveshaft back in and take it for a drive, see how it sounds. If it's been like that for a while, the pinion bearings could be trash or the pinion/ring gear could have odd wear patterns.
While you're there, think about changing the pinion seal.
However, in this case I would tighten the pinion nut down and see what happens.
Remove the driveshaft, set the parking brake. Then get a ½" breaker bar and appropriate size socket and tighten the nut down. Don't get carried away though, I can't remember if the Dana uses shims or a crush sleeve to set the preload. If it's shims, how tight doesn't matter, if it's a crush sleeve you can tighten it too tight and change the preload.
Put the driveshaft back in and take it for a drive, see how it sounds. If it's been like that for a while, the pinion bearings could be trash or the pinion/ring gear could have odd wear patterns.
While you're there, think about changing the pinion seal.
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You're correct, there is a detailed procedure to follow with setting the pinion depth and pinion bearing preload.
However, in this case I would tighten the pinion nut down and see what happens.
Remove the driveshaft, set the parking brake. Then get a ½" breaker bar and appropriate size socket and tighten the nut down. Don't get carried away though, I can't remember if the Dana uses shims or a crush sleeve to set the preload. If it's shims, how tight doesn't matter, if it's a crush sleeve you can tighten it too tight and change the preload.
Put the driveshaft back in and take it for a drive, see how it sounds. If it's been like that for a while, the pinion bearings could be trash or the pinion/ring gear could have odd wear patterns.
While you're there, think about changing the pinion seal.
However, in this case I would tighten the pinion nut down and see what happens.
Remove the driveshaft, set the parking brake. Then get a ½" breaker bar and appropriate size socket and tighten the nut down. Don't get carried away though, I can't remember if the Dana uses shims or a crush sleeve to set the preload. If it's shims, how tight doesn't matter, if it's a crush sleeve you can tighten it too tight and change the preload.
Put the driveshaft back in and take it for a drive, see how it sounds. If it's been like that for a while, the pinion bearings could be trash or the pinion/ring gear could have odd wear patterns.
While you're there, think about changing the pinion seal.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
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From: Stanley, VA
Thanks mikeo0o0o0. I know I should be doing it 'the right way' but I just want to get it on the road. I am pretty sure it has shims and my Haynes manual says to torque it to 250-270 ft-lbs. Is it possible to check and see if things are working right by putting some lay out die on the pinion and roll the tires?
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I tightened it up to about 270ft-lbs but then the wheels wouldn't spin so i back it off maybe a quarter turn (+/- a bit) until I could spin the wheels by hand so it felt like i thought it should. Going to drive it today, then jack the rear up again and give the wheels a spin tho see how it feels
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Stanley, VA
How loose was the pinion nut?
I checked and the D60 does use shims for preload adjustment. Tightening it to spec shouldn't have made it lock up.
You might have bad pinion bearings.
Let me know how it goes.
I checked and the D60 does use shims for preload adjustment. Tightening it to spec shouldn't have made it lock up.
You might have bad pinion bearings.
Let me know how it goes.
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I tightened it up to about 270ft-lbs but then the wheels wouldn't spin so i back it off maybe a quarter turn (+/- a bit) until I could spin the wheels by hand so it felt like i thought it should. Going to drive it today, then jack the rear up again and give the wheels a spin tho see how it feels
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There is a process to it. Some special tools required. Dial indicator to set backlash, have to press bearings on and off for shimming the pinion, Not rocket science but you do need to know what you are doing if you want it to last more than a year. Also if it has come loose and rubbing in the case there may be more problems that arent readily visible. I would suggest you bite the bullet and research a good shop to repair it. Most likely gonna co$t a $ub$tantial bit of ca$h.
If you read the rest of this thread the 'just spin the nut back on' method didn't really work out. I had a look at the outer bearing and it looked fine so can i make the adjustments i would have to make without replacing the bearing? Therefore no have to take the rear end off?
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Stanley, VA
If you read the rest of this thread the 'just spin the nut back on' method didn't really work out. I had a look at the outer bearing and it looked fine so can i make the adjustments i would have to make without replacing the bearing? Therefore no have to take the rear end off?
You need to pull the diff cover and inspect everything.
I have a sneaking suspicion that the ring and pinion are shot, along with the bearings.
If this is the case, its almost always cheaper and quicker to find a good used complete rear axle assy and just swap it out.
The bearings aren't that expensive but the labor is, and when you add the cost of a ring and pinion, it can get pricey real quick.
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It sounds like there are more problems than just a simple adjustment.
You need to pull the diff cover and inspect everything.
I have a sneaking suspicion that the ring and pinion are shot, along with the bearings.
If this is the case, its almost always cheaper and quicker to find a good used complete rear axle assy and just swap it out.
The bearings aren't that expensive but the labor is, and when you add the cost of a ring and pinion, it can get pricey real quick.
You need to pull the diff cover and inspect everything.
I have a sneaking suspicion that the ring and pinion are shot, along with the bearings.
If this is the case, its almost always cheaper and quicker to find a good used complete rear axle assy and just swap it out.
The bearings aren't that expensive but the labor is, and when you add the cost of a ring and pinion, it can get pricey real quick.
I had the cover off and the ring and pinion look really good except where the pinion crashed into the carrier. The front bearing looked to be in great shape as well. I might try to back it off again and take it for another drive just to see. I was trying to get it going to go camping for the long weekend this weekend but I dont see that happening so i am just going to let it sit for a week or so.
I do have a complete rear end but I am a little leery about swapping it. The brakes would have to be swapped and probably new seals all the way around.
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