roof rust
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
From: tinley park
roof rust
so i took the tarp off and look at the cab and found this on the passenger side,
how bad is this to repair, any advice on how to fix it. in my gallery its the last two pictures. its under the drip rail, thanks in advanced
dan
how bad is this to repair, any advice on how to fix it. in my gallery its the last two pictures. its under the drip rail, thanks in advanced
dan
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 26,337
Likes: 12
From: Paradise Found!
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Unfortunately that is a big job It's a complex joint and only the inner doubler panel is available as a repair panel. That much rust that high up means that it likely has severe rust around the windshield and lower. If you are not well versed in rust repair and patch panel fabrication, I'd suggest looking for a better cab. All cabs from the F100 through the big jobs are the same and useable. Even if you shop the SW states for a rust free cab, and have to have it shipped, or fly to the location and rent a truck one way to bring it home, it will be cheaper than repairing what you have, especially if you have to hire out the work.
Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Pennsylvania
see this thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...st-repair.html
good photos and you can see what you may be getting into.
I have a 56 cab that is much worse than yours, I'm going to repair it, in the meantime I do have a spare cab in better shape.
Jeff
good photos and you can see what you may be getting into.
I have a 56 cab that is much worse than yours, I'm going to repair it, in the meantime I do have a spare cab in better shape.
Jeff
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,093
Likes: 652
From: Brentwood, TN
If you looked at the thread that blue cloud posted then you will realize that what you are seeing on the outside of the roof panel is just the tip of the iceberg. When you remove the damaged metal skin you will surely find more rust in the supporting substructure.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
From: tinley park
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
The water and corrosion that rusted that area came from the inside and first rusted the inner structure and likely also attacked the underside of the "forehead" over the windshield and down the posts to the area under the windshield weather stripping. A pinhole showing on the outside means the metal had been thinned on the inside for at least 6" around it, too thin to weld to. The door frame under the gutter is a box structure composed of several separate pieces welded together. In my experience a 3-4" strip of the roof most of the way around and the inside layers and gutter will need replacing along with almost all the box section over the door. The best way to do the door frame section would be to cut it out from front to rear door posts and replace it with a matching section from a cab without rust. I find it unlikely that there isn't rust in the lower cab corners and door posts, there had to be a lot of moisture, and unless the cab was upside down it would have run down to the bottom.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
56s tend to be a little more than 53-55, but I have seen SW rust free bare cabs selling for 400. (without doors) - 800. (with doors), shipping ~ 500 or less depends where you live, if you pick it up at the truck terminal, etc. Search craigslist in major areas in SW. Mid Fifty sometimes has used parts for sale. The cabs on big jobs are often in better shape and cheaper, they are identical.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,793
Likes: 19
From: Austin
Hey Dan,
Here are (2) more threads with different approaches to roof and drip rail repair. The first is the traditional approach of cutting out the rust & welding & doing repairs. The second is from Capelo in Spain - where he totally replaced his roof with a fiberglass one. (around page 9 on his thread).
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-welds-2.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rd-f100-9.html
I wouldn't be discouraged - most of us started with trucks that were err.. basket cases or barn finds. There is no harm in opening up the roof a bit & taking a look.
Good luck over there & welcome!
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Here are (2) more threads with different approaches to roof and drip rail repair. The first is the traditional approach of cutting out the rust & welding & doing repairs. The second is from Capelo in Spain - where he totally replaced his roof with a fiberglass one. (around page 9 on his thread).
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-welds-2.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rd-f100-9.html
I wouldn't be discouraged - most of us started with trucks that were err.. basket cases or barn finds. There is no harm in opening up the roof a bit & taking a look.
Good luck over there & welcome!
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post