I think he's talking to Capelo, who said he took off his steel roof to install one made from fiberglass.

 

Ax I will get some pictures. It is actually really simpler, much simpler than any of the other panels I have replaced.......

I will get some pictures tomorrow.

I was referring to Capelo's top, it looks really good and I may consider this option......depends on how much patching will be required on my tin.

 

I am paying very close attention to this thread because I still need to replace my top skin and have been putting it off just because of the PITA factor. I will be ordering the spot weld knife as it looks like the best option for the rear seam area, the front and sides can be easily drilled.

Post many pic's as I would love to see this done before I jump off the bridge.

 

I didn't order the knife, I sharpened my spot weld chisel for my air hammer, and just drove it in (with a hammer). It separated it enough that I could take my grinder and cut each spot weld.

Took about 15 minutes. I will have to hammer and dolly some bulges the chisel made but in most places it just bowed the two flanges apart and that is all that has to be straightened.

 

I have no need to remove my roof but would love to see pictures for possible future projects!

 

What about an air chisel if you went at it slow, do you think that would work? You might have to modify a chisel.

 

AX sorry, but I have only these photos, and this intalado a couple of months ago, but I remember how they together all the pieces

 

if the back is still a board and should continue as if the lid could crack union devido expansions as they are two different materials

 

Ok fellas, I have made some progress and these pics should help anyone.

I also think this is the best way to remove the drip rails, not to mention I cut the square section of the front of the roof of and am dropping it down an inch. I think it is going to flow really nice. I used tape and marked it off just where the bend is across the front and then ran the tape to the drip rails behind the back door corner. I will add a strip of 1/16" filler material above the door between the rear and front pillars which will flush everything out and then weld a seam all the way around. This is also nice because you aren't trying to weld 3 edges, you are essentially doing a lap weld.

The top was easy to remove. I cut the drip rail off with the grinder. I made my horizontal cut on the roof, you could simply cut the drip rail deep enough to loosen the roof. Then I used my air chisel to remove the remaing drip rail. Keep it sharp, probably sharpened my 4-5 times throughout the process, had the whole roof off in less than 2 hours and it was salvageable. This is the way to go for roof rot, then buy the drip rail kit and fiberglass roof, and you are down the road.

There is an outer ring to the cab, made up of the pillars, back of cab rails above doors, and rail across the windshield. Then the J shaped drip rail is spot welded to it and finally the roof is pinched and spot welded into the drip rail.












I like the tipped down look so well that I may not chop it now.........

 

chopping a '56 would be difficult at best, especially with the compound curved windshield. Tipped look would be better, IMO.

Nice work, BTW.

 

Todays work:

 

Looks Good!

 

Gotta love it when a plan comes together!

 

"He's on the Jazz!" Looks great... Keep up the great work!

 

Great work and thanks for posting all the pictures.