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Old Jun 24, 2014 | 09:57 AM
  #31  
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You could make the truck ride a lot easier by changing out the rear springs and replacing them with a modern variable rate leaf spring .. Which would be plenty to tow your bike and more .. Do this when your going to replace the brake and fuel lines .. Jack the frame up far enough so there is no weight on the rear springs and you can wheel the rear axle with springs out from under the truck .. Put the frame on blocks forward of the front spring eye of rear leaf springs ..

Things to disconnect
1) brake lines
2) differential vent tube
3) shocks at lower mount
4) 4 bolts that go through spring eyes

Do your brake and fuel lines while axle is from under truck and replace or refurbish present springs while axle is out from frame .. You can do your frame paint then too
 
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Old Jun 24, 2014 | 02:21 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by redroad
You could make the truck ride a lot easier by changing out the rear springs and replacing them with a modern variable rate leaf spring .. Which would be plenty to tow your bike and more .. Do this when your going to replace the brake and fuel lines .. Jack the frame up far enough so there is no weight on the rear springs and you can wheel the rear axle with springs out from under the truck .. Put the frame on blocks forward of the front spring eye of rear leaf springs ..

Things to disconnect
1) brake lines
2) differential vent tube
3) shocks at lower mount
4) 4 bolts that go through spring eyes

Do your brake and fuel lines while axle is from under truck and replace or refurbish present springs while axle is out from frame .. You can do your frame paint then too
Thanks redroad! Where do I get these variable springs and do I have to give them a 'weight' or just tell them it is for a 1978 F250?
 
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Old Jun 24, 2014 | 02:36 PM
  #33  
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Talk to these guys Contact Us | Deaver Spring | 714-542-3703

and let them know what you want and eliminate any blocks under the leafs .. If you want the truck to ride level talk about the front .. What size tires do you eventually want to end up with ? and have you thought about cross over steering ? If this is something you would want to add later then at least a 4" lift will be needed .. Any more lift over 4" and your talking possible drive shaft issues .. What was the stock weight rating on the truck ? This info would be on the drivers side door post .. From what you describe your intended usage of the truck as the current rear suspension is way over rated for what you intend to use the truck for ..
 
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Old Jun 24, 2014 | 06:19 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by BossFan
Thanks. I don't know the history of the truck, but would those four overload springs come that way from the factory? I do not think so. Should I remove them? Why remove or change what is not broke? I never load the bed with anything, although I would like to eventually be able to pull an enclosed motorcyle trailer with this truck, so maybe best to leave them alone. If you are even going to tow heavy, you will appreciate them. How do you know if it's time to replace the springs, and are they hard to remove even to just clean them up? When they let the suspension sag, and lots of work to just take off to just paint them. Are they under tension like the front coil springs in a car, or are they more like the rear coils springs? Under tension with the weight of the truck. To remove you would have to jack it up till they are hanging free, support the frame with some HD jack stands, un-bolt the u-bolts ect... This truck stuff is all new to me.

Thanks for the tip on cutting a notch. That makes sense. You can see how the inside of that bracket has rust from water sitting in it.
Figure out the day to day use of the truck and build it to be the best in that driving profile. But to not limit yourself to just a good riding DD, that you can't use for anything else. FYI, IMO a real tall truck with a big lift and tires does not tow that well.....
 
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Old Jun 24, 2014 | 07:05 PM
  #35  
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@77&79F250
Spring packs have improved dramatically since the springs in Op's truck were put under it and you know it .. The reason for changing the springs is not because they're wore out it's for a better ride and still be able to haul a good load .. As far as the lift goes I was talking about lift in terms of getting rid of blocks and giving you the option to add crossover steering and again providing a better and safer ride .. As far as big tires I personally wouldn't run more than 33's to 35's especially considering the front axle and output of the motor .. I tow just fine with a 4" lift and Toyo LT305/70R16 tires on my 79 F250 .. Besides the wife appreciates the softer ride no more special order strap those babies in bra is needed to ride in the truck .. I like the braless look myself
 
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 06:57 AM
  #36  
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Thanks for the feedback guys. I was not looking to make the truck any higher than it already is. I was planning on adding a little bigger/wider tire on Hurricane wheels, just because I like the look, but then swap those back for the current steelies when winter comes.

I don't even know what crossover steering is. I would like to eliminate a lot of the slop in the steering, but I just assumed getting the redhead steering box would go a long way to doing that.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 09:23 AM
  #37  
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Crossover steering is really the ultimate in getting rid of any engineering flaws in OEM design as far as tight steering goes .. and with the year truck you have and front axle you already have one of the main ingredients for it flat top knuckles .. The redhead box is a big step in the right direction also ..

Crossover steering with these http://bulletproofsteering.com/steeringsystems.html

Some more reading

 
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 12:19 PM
  #38  
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That steering looks so cool! My truck has a factory stabilizer (I think that's what it's called) in the front, but that truck does not. Do you elimate the need for that with crossover steering?
 
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 05:30 PM
  #39  
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Red head box yes...and maybe upper and lower ball joints, both tie rod ends, drag link, center link, new steering shaft from Borgerson, maybe new wheel bearings after a bearing insp and repack/spindle nut tq ck.

Borgeson Universal Company :: Ford Truck 1970-04

Get a LMC catalog to get a free idea on what parts are called or get a basic Chilton or Hays manual.

Just getting a new box will probably help 100%, but at least checking all the other steering related parts should be on the list also.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 02:24 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by BossFan
That steering looks so cool! My truck has a factory stabilizer (I think that's what it's called) in the front, but that truck does not. Do you elimate the need for that with crossover steering?
It's not finished in the pic .. You can go as extreme as you want but deep pockets are needed

 
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 02:36 PM
  #41  
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f350 (Ed) has a nice set up doesn't he? Ever seen his red truck or his dads truck?
 
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 02:44 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250
f350 (Ed) has a nice set up doesn't he? Ever seen his red truck or his dads truck?
Yeah both are real nice and he's got some great fabrication skills haven't heard much from him lately
 
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 03:04 PM
  #43  
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He quite coming on here a few years ago, no idea why ???? And is a "FSB" guy now days, so I hear any way, and yes he definitely has some fabrication skills.

I copy and past alot of his advice for other folks to read.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 04:38 PM
  #44  
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Tractor supply flat stock,1 1/2 x 3/16 x 48 inches cheap.Will make any bracket you need to make.
 
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