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I removed the bed from my '78 F-250 yesterday (first-timer with lots of help from reading posts on this forum) and later tonight I will to start a new ongoing thread with photos to ask members about fixing some of the frame damage. I have a lot of noobie questions about doing this, since I've never done it before.
In the picture below, this is the little bracket riveted to the inside of the frame where the brake line gets clipped (I'll take a better picture). My first question is: these brackets (both sides) are just hanging in the air. They have both rotted off of the frame. Does anyone make these, and my bigger (noobie) question, I see that these brackets are riveted, not bolted to the frame. How do I remove a rivet? I've never done that before, and once I get it out, and get a new bracket, do I have to rivet it back in or can I bolt it on?
I'm also assuming I may have to do some welding, but have never welded before. I'm not afraid to learn the skill, but where do I start? What's a good resource for welding and what kind of welder would I need?
A couple of different ways to remove the rivets. You can center punch the rivet and then use a drill bit to drill through the rivet or you can grind the head off and knock out the rivet with a punch.
Another method for larger rivets is to slice several cuts into the head with a hack saw, die grinder, etc. and then use a chisel to knock the head off.
You can use bolts in place of the rivets, I would recommend gr 8 bolts although for the brackets you could use gr 5.
I don't think the brackets were available separately, I'll check and let you know.
Learning how to weld is a valuable skill that, once you learn it, you'll find yourself looking for projects. The best way to learn is to buy a welder and start practicing.
RE: welding, check with any vocational, high schools in the area for adult/continuing education for welding classes. Many also offer auto mechanics classes.
I checked, the good news is the hose brackets were available separately, the bad news is no dealer or obsolete suppliers have any so it's time to hit the salvage yards.
You didn't specify front or rear. Your were talking like it was the front (both sides) but the picture looks like the bracket for the rear.
Here's what I found:
Bracket, rear brake hose support
Fits: 73-up F100-350
C7TZ-2073-A
Quan req 1
Bracket, front brake hose support
Fits: 77-up F250 from s/n Y40,001
fits right and left side
D7TZ-2082-B
Quan req 2
I checked, the good news is the hose brackets were available separately, the bad news is no dealer or obsolete suppliers have any so it's time to hit the salvage yards.
You didn't specify front or rear. Your were talking like it was the front (both sides) but the picture looks like the bracket for the rear.
Here's what I found:
Bracket, rear brake hose support
Fits: 73-up F100-350
C7TZ-2073-A
Quan req 1
Bracket, front brake hose support
Fits: 77-up F250 from s/n Y40,001
fits right and left side
D7TZ-2082-B
Quan req 2
Thanks Mike
You were right, it was only one bracket (driver-side). I was getting confused because there were two other 'bracket-like' attachments riveted to the frame that didn't attach to anything, but were also rotted away. They also had a bolt that something must've attached to, but there was nothing there. It s the top red circle. The bottom circle is for some kind of stud that had no bolt on it (but in the other side of truck there was a bolt). I'm assuming this bolt just rusted away too.
There are no salvage yards in NJ anymore, but I think there are some in PA. How would I get this brake-line bracket off a salvage frame? I've never removed a rivet and don't know what tools I need. I also need two crossmembers (pics to follow later).
That looks great! Do I have more leaf-spings because my truck is an F-250? Also, there is some kind of block between two sets of leaf springs? Is that supposed to be there? I know nothing about the history of my truck.
Where did you get your brake lines and fuel lines? The whole reason for me pulling the bed was to replace those items because when I looked from underneath, you could tell it was just a mish-mosh of repairs over the years. I didn't know I was going to have to get involved in replacing brackets and crossmembers.
The bottom red circle is supposed to be like that, that's the locating pin for the spring pack. The top one IDK, I'll look and see if I can identify what that's supposed to be.
As for parts, try placing a WTB (want to buy) in the classifieds here at FTE.
You also might try contacting Rich ( FTE screen name 77&79F250 ) he has access to quite a few dentsides.
Yeah, mine is an F100 2WD so it won't have as many spring leafs as yours. Not sure if yours has added on leafs or not.
I got all my hard lines from Inline Tube and had them made out of stainless steel. Inline tube The brake plumbing experts
That unidentified bracket on the frame, the top red circle, is the rear axle bumper stop. It's used when the truck is equipped with auxiliary springs, so I would say that your truck is supposed to have the extra springs.
A couple of different ways to remove the rivets. You can center punch the rivet and then use a drill bit to drill through the rivet or you can grind the head off and knock out the rivet with a punch.
Another method for larger rivets is to slice several cuts into the head with a hack saw, die grinder, etc. and then use a chisel to knock the head off.
You can use bolts in place of the rivets, I would recommend gr 8 bolts although for the brackets you could use gr 5.
I don't think the brackets were available separately, I'll check and let you know.
Learning how to weld is a valuable skill that, once you learn it, you'll find yourself looking for projects. The best way to learn is to buy a welder and start practicing.
Thanks for the how-to on removing the rivets. Any recommendation on a 'beginner's welder'? I did a quick craiglist search and there are so many choices.
I see you live in the rust belt as do I .. We that live there (rust belt) are faced with a lot more when it comes to vehicle restoration than most .. A mig welder is what is needed to get a good clean weld with thinner sheet metal like body patch panels .. and one that can weld thicker metal for fabrication work like cross members or custom bumpers and the like are going to be costly .. So you have to ask yourself am I all in on this or am I better off having someone else do the welding or paying the cost of bringing in good rust free parts from out of state .. My choice was to buy or trade for parts where I could from rust free areas of the country even buying whole vehicles in need of mechanical repair and driving to them and putting them on a trailer and hauling them home .. With the rise of gas prices this is however less and less workable .. So I am doing more and more patch panel welding .. The Miller 211 although a little pricey is a machine you can do most anything with .. They can be found used and in good condition, That's how I got mine .. At the end of the day you get what you pay for and if your going for good results there is nothing more frustrating than trying to get good results out of a cheap welder .. I hope this helps .. Good luck with your project .. BTW saw this today http://cnj.craigslist.org/pts/4532537358.html