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Take to replace an injector the first time doing it? #5 tossed a code this past week and I am debating doing it myself, but am thinking it might be more then I want to screw with.
I am a fair wrench, just not sure I want to mess with this.
I'm a dumb farmer, and I've done it a few times. 12mm ratchet wrench... your back and guts will thank you later. When I did mine, I went so far as to buy a new torque wrench with a lower scale so it would be more accurate than the one I had. Be sure the injector hole is clean, and that the copper washer comes out with the old injector. And when you get the oil rail off, be prepared for lots of oil to come out of it. I leave it laying in the rocker box after I bust it loose to bleed out.
Well I put the injector replacement off awhile and it is time to deal with it.
Truck is starting to puff BLACK smoke on any type of acceleration.
In the morning I am going to go get an injector and hold down hardware from the local Ford SD dealer in town.
I went to O'Rielly's tonight looking for a long T40 socket. They only had a 4 piece set and each was only approximately 4 inches long. Is this going to work for me?
Well I put the injector replacement off awhile and it is time to deal with it.
Truck is starting to puff BLACK smoke on any type of acceleration.
In the morning I am going to go get an injector and hold down hardware from the local Ford SD dealer in town.
I went to O'Rielly's tonight looking for a long T40 socket. They only had a 4 piece set and each was only approximately 4 inches long. Is this going to work for me?
Snap On SDMT440 torx bit and a bit holder to hold it. This is recommended for the pass. side.
^^^^ This was somewhere in the tech folder. It's just the correct length.
I bought 2 of the bits from Snap On and I bought this bit holder
Well it took me 30 minutes to get down to the 3 pain in the a$$ valve cover bolts. 30 minutes to get the 2 by the a/c heater box out. 15 to figure out how to get around the rear A/C lines between the valve cover corner and firewall for the end bolt.
I have one 8 mm bolt to get out on the rail. It is the last lower one by the a/c heater box. I can not for the life of me get anything on it and stay on as I try to take it loose.
Well it took me 30 minutes to get down to the 3 pain in the a$$ valve cover bolts. 30 minutes to get the 2 by the a/c heater box out. 15 to figure out how to get around the rear A/C lines between the valve cover corner and firewall for the end bolt.
I have one 8 mm bolt to get out on the rail. It is the last lower one by the a/c heater box. I can not for the life of me get anything on it and stay on as I try to take it loose.
You can remove the inner fender well and get at it from there. You can also remove the remove the cover on the a/c heater box and get a little more room.
When I removed the rail on that side I didn't remove the cover, I removed the inner fender well and got to it from there with a 1/4" breaker bar and a t30 bit that I ground down. I duct taped the bit to the socket to keep it from falling down in the engine. It was still a PIA.
Ok I took a break......sat and pondered.....remembered where my 1/4 breaker bar was.....
Thought about removing the fender well........thought otherwise on it....added work! I am always the one to spend the extra time the 1st time to figure out a time saving short cuts on disassembly and assembly. Not quality work short cuts!
So as I was getting upset again.....I had an epiphany and whacked 3/8 of an inch off of my 8 mm deep well socket. This allowed me to get the breaker bar and scoket on that pesky pain the a$$ bolt!
Rail is off but and I am done for the night! I bought the extra long torx bit set when I should have bought the shorter set. Another tool for the collection!
So I will hit the parts store in the AM get the right socket and go from there.
BTW the trick with the socket to push out the injector plug.....that didn't work for me...I tried a 17, 18 & 19 and nothing happened.
I ended up using 2 screw drivers and 2 hands to get it out.
So if I didn't have the learning curve I am at 45 minutes of actual labor!
Sorry Restlesswildman I thought you had the wavy oil rails, I didn't you are working on an 03.
Originally Posted by Restlesswildman
Ok I took a break......sat and pondered.....remembered where my 1/4 breaker bar was.....
Thought about removing the fender well........thought otherwise on it....added work! I am always the one to spend the extra time the 1st time to figure out a time saving short cuts on disassembly and assembly. Not quality work short cuts!
So as I was getting upset again.....I had an epiphany and whacked 3/8 of an inch off of my 8 mm deep well socket. This allowed me to get the breaker bar and scoket on that pesky pain the a$$ bolt!
Rail is off but and I am done for the night! I bought the extra long torx bit set when I should have bought the shorter set. Another tool for the collection!
So I will hit the parts store in the AM get the right socket and go from there.
BTW the trick with the socket to push out the injector plug.....that didn't work for me...I tried a 17, 18 & 19 and nothing happened.
I ended up using 2 screw drivers and 2 hands to get it out.
So if I didn't have the learning curve I am at 45 minutes of actual labor!
Great idea on the 8mm bolt ^^^^. Sometimes you have to do things like that with these trucks.
Total working time is about 4.5 hours. I was moving slow and didn't have much motivation this weekend.
The biggest thing with doing this for the first time was not knowing the hang up spots and the work arounds for them. The 2 hardest things were the rear valve cover bolt by the rear a/c and heater lines and the last 8 mm oil rail bolt.
Once I cut an 8 mm deep well socket down for the rail it was a snap!
I would like to know how the dealer techs get around those heater and a/c lines on the Excursions!
A big learning curve on this job for me. I feel much more comfortable with doing an oil cooler after this weekend!