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Air Box Removal--Quick Answer, Please? LOL

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Old May 30, 2011 | 02:00 PM
  #1  
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Air Box Removal--Quick Answer, Please? LOL

Hi all,

I didn't think this would be such a mystery, and I'm ready to work, but stumped.

The bolts holding the air box cover down on my '96//97 F-250 (OBS) are rusted, so that they are spinning in the bosses, meant to capture the nuts.

In other words, I can't get the lid off.

Is there any way to get the WHOLE AIRBOX OUT without first removing the lid? I would like to do so, so I can "soak" the nuts, and do some surgery, if need be, around and/or around the nuts, rather than up on top of the air box lid, where any errant Dremel marks will be obvious.

And yes, this (yet again) disproves the previous owner's glorious tales of his "rigid maintenance" schedule. Obviously, the air filter hasn't been changed in years.

Thanks!

Big Six
 
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Old May 30, 2011 | 03:36 PM
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You should be able to grab the bottom portion of the threaded inserts with a pliers and hold them well enough to unscrew the bolts..............obtain better ones from a J-yard.
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 09:43 AM
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The entire airbox is held down with 2-3 screws. Remove the air intake tube, then the tubes running to the throttle body, unscrew the mounting screws. Now you remove the entire airbox for some surgery. Been there, done that.....
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 04:39 PM
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Old93junk

Thanks, but with the 460, there's NO access on the front side, and almost none from the rear. I couldn't even get enough access to spray them properly with a penetrant--LOL. If I have to, I'll start taking off other parts to get that access, but I'm l-a-z-y, so still looking for an easier way, but definitely, if I can get access, I think I could do as you suggest--thanks!

Originally Posted by rla2005
The entire airbox is held down with 2-3 screws. Remove the air intake tube, then the tubes running to the throttle body, unscrew the mounting screws. Now you remove the entire airbox for some surgery. Been there, done that.....
rla2005,

Man--I'm glad you've "been there, done that...."!

But just so I'm clear on this--I have the 460--not sure if that's different from others?

So, since I CAN'T get the lid off, I should be able to access the bolts from the "clean air" tubes running to the throttle body, and the air intake tube?

I will explore this--thanks again!

Big Six
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 05:53 PM
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Is there any way to grind the heads off the screws? They are junk anyway.
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 06:06 PM
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Not if you don't want to damage any of the air box parts or cover.........
I have the 460 as well, one of mine was also spinning, I have a small needle nose pair of vise grips that were able to get in and hold the threaded insert.
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 06:27 PM
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I really prefer the MAF air box with the retaining clips. Those screws and nuts on the speed density air box can be a pain.

I would remove the whole air box to work on it. The mounting bolts for it are just to the front and rear of the box.
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 06:46 PM
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Same thing happened to mine a few weeks ago, I used a dremel to take the heads off the old screw and just replace them with a regular nut and bolt.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by TexasGuy001
I really prefer the MAF air box with the retaining clips. Those screws and nuts on the speed density air box can be a pain.

I would remove the whole air box to work on it. The mounting bolts for it are just to the front and rear of the box.
That's the plan. Unfortunately, haven't had the time to find these bolts I can't see. I will look more closely.

Old9Junk,

I too have the needle nose vise grips you speak of. I'm thinking that, since four of my 6 are spinning, I'll have to remove more crap to get on them, then you had to, to get at just one.

95F150/02
Originally Posted by 95F150/02
Same thing happened to mine a few weeks ago, I used a dremel to take the heads off the old screw and just replace them with a regular nut and bolt.
I may go this route but as Old93Junk says, to do this without collateral damage looks near impossible. I guess that's what a new lid from the junk yard is for, if it looks too "scabby" when I'm done.

Thanks, all! One way or another....

And I really appreciate the multiple, QUICK, responses!

Big Six
 
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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 11:17 PM
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Those stupid threaded inserts always fall out of the box... you end up with a loose nut and bolt that spins but doesn't come out. Try this: take the head of the bolt with vice-grips and pull up the bolt as much as you can before trying to turn it, that might place the nut (threaded insert) in the hole it was supposed to be, at least long enough for you to take the bolt out.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by BigSix1
Old93junk

Thanks, but with the 460, there's NO access on the front side, and almost none from the rear. I couldn't even get enough access to spray them properly with a penetrant--LOL. If I have to, I'll start taking off other parts to get that access, but I'm l-a-z-y, so still looking for an easier way, but definitely, if I can get access, I think I could do as you suggest--thanks!



rla2005,

Man--I'm glad you've "been there, done that...."!

But just so I'm clear on this--I have the 460--not sure if that's different from others?

So, since I CAN'T get the lid off, I should be able to access the bolts from the "clean air" tubes running to the throttle body, and the air intake tube?

I will explore this--thanks again!

Big Six
I am not aware the 7.5L airbox is much different than it's smaller brethren. This photo shows the base:


You can see the mounting tabs on the sides. Once you remove those, the tubes leading to the throttlebody, outside air intake if present and the PCV vent hose the entire assembly should lift out of truck. Now you can get a hold of those pesky bolts.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2024 | 11:57 AM
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I'm reviving this ancient thread since it's my exact problem. I Dremeled a few heads off to get the cover off. The insert things have rounded out the plastic. Using regular nuts and bolts isn't a good solution because there's no access to the underside when servicing the filter (on the 7.5L anyway). I was thinking about t-nuts or something like that, or perhaps melting some nuts into the plastic. What have others done to fix this? A new box can be had for about $60 it looks like but I'd rather not go that route.
 
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