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Well. Replaced the master and took it in for a power flush/meaning the put fresh fluids in and bled the system.
The initial problem essentially is the brake pedal "steps or creaks" its way down.
It's intermittent but gets progressively worse I have found.
After the master and flush the problem went away for about a week and a half.
I have one abs code and that's the right front sensor.
Now I wouldn't think a sensor would be the issue.
What could it be?
Am I looking a booster issue?
Feels like an air in the line issue but the lines look fine and not losing any fluids.
Any ideas? Need to get this resolved. It's my daily.
Would a booster do this? Never had a booster fail.
Any common issues I'm missing with this model year?
Don't want to keep throwing money at it and would rather avoid the dealer.
Thanks to those who have helped or are willing to help.
Just thinking out loud here. I don't claim to know the detailed logic of the ABS system and how it interprets bad sensors or sensors with in-range failures. But, if the sensor has failed in-range and gives the computer a valid but erroneous value, then maybe the computer is applying the ABS. Maybe you could simulate a hard failure of the sensor by unplugging it and then taking it for a spin to see if the problem occurs. The computer should have no problem interpreting an open circuit as a failure. When the sensor on mine was bad, it failed open circuit. The bearing was worn, which allowed the "ring gear" to contact the sensor. I replaced the whole bearing assembly, which included a new sensor. I removed and checked the old sensor with a DMM to confirm that it was open. You could also see where the contact occurred on the end of the sensor. You might also want to check your wheel bearing.
Sometimes, disconnecting and re-connecting an electrical connector will fix things. Pins/sockets get corroded and separating them can remove the corrosion. This has happened twice on my AC system.
I'm also wondering if there's an internal leak or air in the ABS circuit or maybe you got a bad replacement master cylinder with an internal leak.
I'm thinking a possible air leak but I've checked all bleeders and connections.
It feels like air but not so sure.
The pedal steps or chunks down when it occurs.
I've checked every line and connection. I see zero leaks.
Is it possible that air could be getting in through my caliper pistons somewhere?
The rubber lines from the frame to caliper look good.
Jesus it's killing me.
Had em bled and felt great for about a week...now it's back.
Now I have an abs left front sensor code that's been unattended since I bought the rig.
Need to replace the sensor.
Could it be that the ABS speed sensor is losing some 'signal' from the disc, confusing the ABS system and cause it to randomly kick in causing an air in the line feeling?
Any ideas?
Again I appreciate the help. Be lost without you guys.
As of right now I know this.
It's the abs somewhere.
Breaks work fine with new master cylinder....no air in system.
I will next examine the sensor and connection on the front left.
Hope to god it's not the abs pump.
Thinking this faulty sensor is causing the system and brake pedal to do weird things.
Any luck? Similar prob, but with ford explorer xlt 1999 v6 4.0 2wd
Hi there. I know these posts were from a while back, but did you ever fix this? I have a ford explorer xlt 1999 v6 4.0 2wd that I replaced the wheel bearings /seals and upper/lower ball joints, and now when I brake, there's an intermittent crunching sound. It seems to only occur at slow speeds (under 10mph). I'm curious what fixed yours.
hey i had a problem like this one it rly sucks firstly is ur abs light on. if it is take out the fuse and drive it if it doesnt do it then one of the sensors is bad happened to me out of nowhere. let me know what u find always like to learn more
It was a bad sensor.
Check them all. If one of them touched the ring, it was probably damaged.
It's was cheaper to buy a new hub with sensor than just one sensor. Go figure.
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