1999 ford explorer v8 eddie bauer 4 door cruise control.

So thinking I need a master cylinder.
Does traction control mean ABS?
Don't need reservoir.

Is the standard bore size 1.062 Inches or do I need to remove first?

Recommended brand?
Not a cheap guy but cheap works.

Having trouble finding 4door cruise traction control at a couple shops.

Anyone have a part number?

Hey thanks. You guys are the best.

 

What makes you think you need a new master cylinder?

Traction control usually means more than just ABS. A traction control system will control the application of a brake(s) to prevent wheel spin or to straighten the car out in the event of a spin.

 

Hi friends.
Have a leak at the back of my master cylinder so it's time to replace.
A question.
I have the hydrolic pump brake lines right up against the master making it difficult to replace.
Is there any trick to getting this off/on without disconnecting those lines?

 

Is yours also a 1999 V8?

You can likely loosen the brake lines completely, then remove the nuts holding the master cylinder to the booster, then **** the front of the master cylinder away from the lines enough to disengage them and position them out of the bores so that you can slide the master cylinder off. The service manual does not mention any tricks or special steps.

-Rod

 

Hi ROD------thanks.
Yes it's the V-8.
These are the 3 hydrolic lines that are snug against the butt-end of the master.
Was hoping to keep the 3 connected.
Worried about excess air and having to go the route of the special factory vac tools that I've heard about.

How about a system bleed question?
Is it imperative to bleed the whole system after a master replacement?
I have the master cylinder bleed procedure down but the brakes.
Is there just one bleed screw per caliper or two?
If two is it the upper or lower?

I watched a vid where he bled them from the master using a pedal helper and just cracking the nuts on the master cylinder itself?
Possible? Recommended?

First time mucking about on this car.

Again---thanks for the help.

Drew

 

If you replace the master cylinder you really should bleed the system. So often the brake system is ignored anyway, so if it's been over a year since the system has been bled, it's really overdue to happen anyway. When replacing the master cylinder it should be bench bled before installing. It sounds like the video you refer to was just showing an alternative way to bleed the master cylinder. The approach they took would not bleed the rest of the lines. Keep in mind you are referring to a critical safety system on the car, spending a bit of extra time to flush the old fluid and bleed the system as a whole is worth the effort. If you have a helper and your helper can follow directions, then it really doesn't take too long to flush the old fluid and and bleed the entire system. If your helper isn't available or good with directions, you can get a couple lengths of clear tubing that will fit over the bleeder screws and a vacuum check valve that will also fit the tubing, then install the check valve in the middle of the tube. The "VAC" end of the check valve would be on the end of the tube that goes to a catch can. The other end connects to the bleeder screws. You then loosen the bleeder screw 1/4 turn, then just slowly pump the brake pedal. The check valve prevents air from getting sucked back in to the system.

Each caliper will have only one bleeder screw and it should be at the top of the caliper piston or pistons. The purpose of bleeding is to get air out of the system, and air will rise in the fluid, so the bleeder should be at the high point. Before you start though you might want to make sure all bleeder screws open.

-Rod

 

Alright a follow up question.
I've rebuilt engines, restored Volvos but never bled brakes.
On my 99 Bauer V8 I have hydrolic assist?
When bleeding do I need the engine running?
Last thing I need is to tear into this, have a dead car in the driveway and need to tow it because I blew the job.
Don't want to have to go to the dealer for a special tool brake bleed.
I'm capable of bench bleeding the thing and hopefully getting the cylinder off pending the movement of the 3 lines coming of that brake pump thing?

Any concerns you can see with me doing this job?

Don't know why but brakes make me nervous.

Thanks for the guidance.

 

You do not need the engine running to bleed the brakes. As soon as you open a bleeder screw, the pedal will sink quite easily without the vacuum assist. If you do the 2-person bleed, make sure the person operating the pedal tells the person opening and closing the bleeder screw before the pedal hits the floor.

Also, since your truck should have ABS, after you get the system flushed, find a gravel or sand area to activate the ABS a few times. You want to get the new, fresh fluid circulating through the ABS pump and the old contaminated fluid out.

-Rod