I've been having IDM issues ( code 1316 ) for about 4 months I have done UVCH and 50cent mod, removed IDM cleaned it and cleaned my PCM all seemed to "fix" it for a month or two then it acts up again running on half a bank, no power I can shut it off and restart it and it's fine. All last week it would bearly move I would put it In gear and it would throw the CEL and run on half a bank always passenger side. I started the truck today not even a hiccup no problems what so ever. I started looking in the drivers side corner by the fire wall and found two wires busted off one is red one is black and they are stuck together side by side. They look like they run into the jumble of wires in that area and it comes from inside the cab. I don't know I this would have anything to do with my IDM as everything else on the truck works flawless. I ordered a new IDM today but wanta see if anybody can answer my Q as I can't find a diagram that shows it I'll try to post pictures, help would be greatly appreciated!

 

My friend, I fear you may have spent your money prematurely. Click the UVCH link in my signature, and ponder the 50-cent fail:





Fifty Cent Fail





Bad VC Gasket

 

rechecked the resistance on both harnesses and they check out GP and Injector I had pulled the VC's again last month too retracing steps. I'm starting to think I need to bring it to a dealer and get screwed over there just to find the problem ...

 

You can look for chafed/exposed wires behind the 42-pin connector - this is as suspect area from vibration.

 

I haven't I will look at that tonight, that would actually make sense because the other day as soon as I would put it in D it would set of the CEL and run on half a bank, but it would restart and operate fine until I out it in D again. how hard is the harness to replace or is it just good enough to electrical tape the problem wire up and keep on trucking??

 

From your other thread, last week:

If you have an Android device, you can spend $11 on Torque Pro and Car Gauge Pro, and another $12 on a Bluetooth OBD-II adapter and have the ability to run tests and monitor things. It's well worth the money.

 

sorry stuck in the stone age with my dumb phone, I have heard of that and will probably get it when I upgrade phones!

 

You aren't far from MPLS, maybe someone in the area will see this and offer to come give you a hand with the diagnostic part of it. That happens pretty often around here.

 

I'm Actually in Jackson, MN now I should probably change that im about 90 miles east of Sioux Falls, SD on I-90.

 

I used Silicone stretch tape - electrical tape doesn't stick to oil, and it doesn't stay stuck to stuff it did stick to - in an under-hood environment.

 

Well I installed my new IDM (140 SWAMPS ) and wow! Completely different truck. Starts, idles, and runs better. Also a lot more oomf if ya ask me. Drove it threw flooded gravel roads on the way to work today, water above the hubs and it took it like a champ no sputtering, hesitation or stalling! I did remove the 42 pin connector as Tugly mentioned and found the wires to be ok but I taped them on the rubbing point just for the hell of it. After 4 months and hours pondering forums, word of mouth and replacing things that were perfectly fine, I should have went with my gut instinct first and replaced the IDM but oh well The Stroke is 100% and back on the road!

 

I'm mulling over getting an OEM IDM... it may solve an intermittent problem I'm having right now.

 

If you have done everything else and are pulling your hair out over it I would recommend giving it a shot I kept getting P1316 so I did everything associated with it except the IDM, finally did the IDM and its fixed hands down. I took my old one apart yesterday to inspect it and sure enough a couple components were melted.

 

Didn't you have to send your old IDM to SWAMPS as a Core Exchange?

 

Yes, BUT once again I spoke too soon yesterday on my way home from work the passenger side bank died and never recovered. I limped it home and tore right into the passenger side and found the injectors have 3.6ohms across the bank. Tried the connections on both sides with the key on and the driver side was between .085 and .087 ohms while the passenger side was .004, .000, .000, .003. Does that mean my actual pigtail is shot? The wires were brown on the passenger side not yellow like the driver. Any idea before I loaded it up and haul it to the stealership???