CV narrowing
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,093
Likes: 653
From: Brentwood, TN
I have seen it both here and on the HAMB. I believe that he narrowed the IFS 3 inches and Ryan went 2.75. If you look at the photo you will see the weld seam in the center of the crossmember, I believe that the rest of the suspension (with the exception of the R&P) remains in the stock configuration. Since the frame is custom fabricated there is no way of telling the widths of the frame members or the narrowed front section.
I have done some digging, to no avail, to find a source for the R&P narrowing service. Ryan, can you elaborate on how/who did yours?
I have done some digging, to no avail, to find a source for the R&P narrowing service. Ryan, can you elaborate on how/who did yours?
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 9,718
Likes: 823
From: Wentzville, MO
I read, think it was on HAMB, that he cut the rack in the center to remove the extra length, just like the crossmember. Said there was no fluid to deal with inside the rack. I can't find the Post either.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,093
Likes: 653
From: Brentwood, TN
Here is the thread...it appears that the pics are now missing however.
Projects - 1956 F100 Build Thread | The H.A.M.B.
Projects - 1956 F100 Build Thread | The H.A.M.B.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,294
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
That HAMB thread says he just shortened the tie rods, which makes sense. I can't imagine cutting the rack itself (the steel toothed part) and re-welding accurately enough to maintain function.
I'm just not seeing the big advantage over an MII? Perhaps cost?
I'm just not seeing the big advantage over an MII? Perhaps cost?
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2013
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Behind bars race cars did my crossmember and rack for $400.
Yes, the rack is cut in the middle. Yes there is fluid to deal with. Yes you can cut and reweld a shaft accurately enough (since the shaft isn't spinning, it is just push pull).
The was Noodles welded mine, he cut it right next to the toothy part of the shaft. The shaft is hollow. He put the ends in a lathe and welded them back together with a piece of steel rod in the inside hollow part to line it up perfectly. Then used the lathe to bring it back down to the original shaft size. He told me it took him about 2 hours to figure out.
He said since the shaft is just push pull, duck tape would probably hold it together so he had no worries about the strength of the shaft being welded.
The outside of the rack, same deal, put a piece of pipe inside, cut, reweld with TIG.
Yes every part of the rack inside of the seals has fluid in it. So far no leaks or any issues.
Yes, the rack is cut in the middle. Yes there is fluid to deal with. Yes you can cut and reweld a shaft accurately enough (since the shaft isn't spinning, it is just push pull).
The was Noodles welded mine, he cut it right next to the toothy part of the shaft. The shaft is hollow. He put the ends in a lathe and welded them back together with a piece of steel rod in the inside hollow part to line it up perfectly. Then used the lathe to bring it back down to the original shaft size. He told me it took him about 2 hours to figure out.
He said since the shaft is just push pull, duck tape would probably hold it together so he had no worries about the strength of the shaft being welded.
The outside of the rack, same deal, put a piece of pipe inside, cut, reweld with TIG.
Yes every part of the rack inside of the seals has fluid in it. So far no leaks or any issues.
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Senior User
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cut and rewelded shaft
Taking it off the tie rod ends messes up the geometry of the steering and also then the rack wouldn't bolt up to the now narrowed crossmember.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,093
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From: Brentwood, TN
I think that if you read further (or maybe I saw this elsewhere) that shortening the tie rods introduces bumpsteer. I'm with you Ross, I don't see the draw other than $$$. If I was REALLY interested in these IFSs, I would look into a redesign of the spindle to bring the wheel mounting flange in closer. CPP and others are building many diferent variations of spindles, seems like this would be a no brainer since the market appears to be strong.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,294
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From: NM
Thanks for the details, Ryan, I wouldn't have guessed the rack was hollow. A spigot weld is a different game. Reinforcing it with a rod inside is a big difference too. But around here, I would struggle mightily to find a shop with both the lathe and the welding skills and the will to tackle a job like that. I suspect that is the case in most parts of the country.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2013
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stronger setup than mustang 2, with better dual piston brakes, heavier duty parts. Total of $600 invested in mine compared to the alternative of $2000+ for a mustang II front end. Price was a big factor.... isn't it always?
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Central Oregon
I think that Gary's truck is a 55, which I believe is wider than the 48-52.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,352
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From: Waleska, GA
Here is the thread...it appears that the pics are now missing however.
Projects - 1956 F100 Build Thread | The H.A.M.B.
Projects - 1956 F100 Build Thread | The H.A.M.B.
Too bad the pictures are gone. It's just not the same without them.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 20
From: West Virginia
"HOW TO" Shorten a power steering rack. | The H.A.M.B.
THAT IS MY THREAD
So you guys are in luck, I will try to repost them here soon.
It was easy if you have a lathe or cheap machinist, and the ability to tig aluminum. I had around 50.00 in my whole narrowing process and rebuild.
My plan is to use this to get the thing on the road, and then order a custom one off rack when/if this thing has problems.
THAT IS MY THREAD
So you guys are in luck, I will try to repost them here soon.
It was easy if you have a lathe or cheap machinist, and the ability to tig aluminum. I had around 50.00 in my whole narrowing process and rebuild.
My plan is to use this to get the thing on the road, and then order a custom one off rack when/if this thing has problems.