Sure. When I get the truck back I can take other measurements for you, but it is looking like springtime before I get it back.

 

I'm going to look over your threads and read up more on it. The plan is to build the truck over this winter.

 

This is the whole point that everyone dogs on the newer CV IFS in the F1s. I don't see how its any different than cutting the whole frame and doing a clip-graft. Actually, I think the CV would be less work in all honesty. I also think that the naysayers are the ones who are afraid of cutting the rack, which has turned out to be no big deal.

 

Took me about a month of weekends to do the CV IFS... A good portion of that was just not having done one before and double and triple checking angles and locations. I have to imagine that it is just as easier or easier than doing a mustang II.

 

I would say that you are probably correct about the MII... It is WAY better than doing a full "clip" and sectioning a frame. I like the idea of the CV due to sticking with a Ford brand stock system and having the larger calipers with more pistons!

 

If your willing to modify your frame rails a bit more the simple solution is just use a rack from a Foxbody. Take 4" from the CV subframe, reweld and install the rack. It isn't rocket science.

This allows you to also run less positive offset rims, not cut a rack up, still have the rest of the modern front end. It might make the linkage to the rack from the steering column tougher, but if your not able to out think something like that you should just be paying a shop to build the truck for you.

Foxbody uses 10" if memory serves. MII is 15.5 or 16"
CV uses 20".

I deal almost weekly in the Crown Vic sub-frames and talk with a lot of guys who have done it, are doing it and want to do it in nearly every old vehicle on the road. I've yet to see a better solution. Short of the hard task of walking around a junkyard with a measuring tape and finding one that is only 17" from mounting point to mounting point. Preferably Ford.

 

Are you saying use the CV IFS and a fox rack or use a fox cradle? I considered a fox cradle but didn't want the coil spring and long strut design in particular.

 

Use the crown vic frame but use a Foxbody rack. Or find a rack that is 17-17.5" wide at the mounts.

 

You should be concerned with the distance between the tie-rod pivot points not the mount spacing. You want the rack pivot points to line up with the pivot points on the lower control arm so that you do not get bump steer.

You should also consider having a look at the Ackerman principle if you narrow it as that effects steering geometry.

Bruce

 

Then you should not ever modify any part of your steering or suspension. I do this sort of work daily. I used to be all paranoid about things like that. Then I figured out that most things all work and are just fine if you just do it.

As I have seen the system work and done by a non-engineer, I am convinced. I don't listen to nay sayers. All the Mustang II kits out there...... for a hundred different cars. Yet no issues I ever see.

This is why I do not participate on this forum much. so many people telling you your wrong. Or what to do with your own project. I offered a solution to a problem.

 

If you need to widen the pivot points on the rack you can just buy the extension parts.

You can buy them at:
Heidts Automotive
Lake Zurich, IL 60047
800-841-8188

Or do as said above and just cut the CV rack which is very very easy. If you can weld aluminum you can do it.

 

I also looked at a mustang rack when I did mine, but I paid $200 to have the rack narrowed.

By the time I bought a mustang rack and fiddle jacked around with the mounts and extensions to get the geometry ok and figured out a steering shaft that would work (by the way a 94-98 mustang steering shaft, the whole thing up to the steering wheel, fits great when adapting to the original rack with a CPP column saver),.... it was just easier to have the rack narrowed.

I did find a rack that was ~ 17 inch mount spacing and had pivot points that were in about the right place, but it was rear steer, so not terribly useful.

It would be awesome if someone found a direct bold on rack. But I agree, this isn't rocket surgery.

My original thread I had people telling me everything from I was going to kill pregnant moms and their babies... to I didn't know how to weld... to my engineering skills weren't good enough. Meanwhile other people are welding 40 year old jag stuff notorious for failed suspension components to their trucks like there could be nothing better in the world.

Anyway I really like the Crown vic front stuff. Now if I could just find a slightly softer spring for the front I would be ecstatic.

 

[QUOTE=ryans88gt;14872582 Now if I could just find a slightly softer spring for the front I would be ecstatic.[/QUOTE]

Ryan,
Tell us more about the stiff ride.

 

[QUOTE=ryans88gt;14872582
Meanwhile other people are welding 40 year old jag stuff notorious for failed suspension components to their trucks like there could be nothing better in the world.


There were a lot of issues with Jags, however the IFS was not one of them to my knowledge.

 

Malakilla, I did not say that steering should never be modified. I said that the rack pivot points should match the ones for the lower control arms, if they do not then you get bump steer. Heidts sells extensions for the rack pivot points because they know that it can be a problem. It also depends on how the vehicle is driven and what ones expectation of handling are.

I personally would rather install Jag suspension that is designed for a 4000+# vehicle than put in a suspension that was designed for a 2500+# vehicle. You can buy every piece that is needed to totally rebuild the Jag and have about $1000 in it, compared to buying a American made MII for $2500+. Again it comes down to what your expectations are.

Bruce