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Proper suspension and steering geometry is a big issue. If you lower or raise a vehicle it will change the dynamic aspect of handling. I do agree that shortening a rack is the best way, cutting a tie rod is the fastest way and paying for a pre-fabbed kit is the easiest way. You have pros/cons of ever aspect. If you are going to take your truck to an autocross then you are going to pay more attention to all of the combined angles to perfect tire contact and response. That is not the majority of us on this forum. There are the others who are concerned with how the truck looks in their garage or at a show but don't care how it handles... chop the tie rod replace front tires every few thousand miles and call it a day. Then there are the rest of us that kind of want all of the above and the best bang for the buck. Well.... this is where available parts/talent/money you are willing to spend up front all come into play.... Well that's where you get the majority of the arguments/discussions on the forum. I personally love to see the different IFS setups. I enjoy a dropped solid axle too. If we all used either Volare or CV or MII or Jag IFSs there would be no diversity and the hobby would become stagnant and boring. For a long time the 48-52 owners were steering FAR away from the CV IFS due to the rack being too wide/narrowing the cradle etc... then there were a few pioneers who said "no its easier than you think" and people have it stuck in their head that the CV is a waste of time/money when in all actuality it is a great custom alternative. Yes the MII is readily available on the shelves, but its $$$ Yes the Jag is a great drop in system but its old. Yes the CV takes a lot of work but its the newest designed system and was designed for a very large/heavy car and can support the weight of our small trucks.
Thanks for the details, Ryan, I wouldn't have guessed the rack was hollow. A spigot weld is a different game. Reinforcing it with a rod inside is a big difference too. But around here, I would struggle mightily to find a shop with both the lathe and the welding skills and the will to tackle a job like that. I suspect that is the case in most parts of the country.
I would agree if it was a spinning shaft that needs balancing. I use these methods all the time to modify motorcycle frames, both shortening and lengthening, and I don't even have a lathe (I just size the plug carefully and use heat to assemble an interference fit then cross pin it and then weld it).
If the way a modified suspension handles/steers doesn't really matter, why go through all the trouble and expense to change what Ford put there in the first place, at that point it's just something to hold the oil pan from hitting the pavement and make it vary from only driving in one direction anyway. Funny that automotive engineers are required to take long math intensive classes in suspension geometry if none of it matters?!?!
Crown Vics are not known in any circles for stellar handling or any other outstanding trait except how cheap/plentiful they are in the scrap yards, which says volumes by itself.
Proper suspension and steering geometry is a big issue. If you lower or raise a vehicle it will change the dynamic aspect of handling. I do agree that shortening a rack is the best way, cutting a tie rod is the fastest way and paying for a pre-fabbed kit is the easiest way. You have pros/cons of ever aspect. If you are going to take your truck to an autocross then you are going to pay more attention to all of the combined angles to perfect tire contact and response. That is not the majority of us on this forum. There are the others who are concerned with how the truck looks in their garage or at a show but don't care how it handles... chop the tie rod replace front tires every few thousand miles and call it a day. Then there are the rest of us that kind of want all of the above and the best bang for the buck. Well.... this is where available parts/talent/money you are willing to spend up front all come into play.... Well that's where you get the majority of the arguments/discussions on the forum. I personally love to see the different IFS setups. I enjoy a dropped solid axle too. If we all used either Volare or CV or MII or Jag IFSs there would be no diversity and the hobby would become stagnant and boring. For a long time the 48-52 owners were steering FAR away from the CV IFS due to the rack being too wide/narrowing the cradle etc... then there were a few pioneers who said "no its easier than you think" and people have it stuck in their head that the CV is a waste of time/money when in all actuality it is a great custom alternative. Yes the MII is readily available on the shelves, but its $$$ Yes the Jag is a great drop in system but its old. Yes the CV takes a lot of work but its the newest designed system and was designed for a very large/heavy car and can support the weight of our small trucks.
While the jag may be "old" (used up to 1992 or so in the XJS) it is a great setup and I do not see how the "newest designed" crown vic would drive any differently. Jag has forged steel control arms, 4 piston calipers, power rack and pinion steering, built in anti-dive, and was designed for a 4000 pound vehicle.
I dont see any advantage to the crown vic setup other than availability in some areas. I will try one eventually but in something that needs the wider track, not that I cannot narrow one but why reinvent the wheel if I dont have to? I seem to have no issue finding jag setups so until that is a problem I will stick wtih them for F1s. I dont think the CV is a waste of time or money, but I see no advantage to using one over another setup. You use what you can get your hands on like all hot rodders do.
I looked into the lexus IFS swap that was also seen here done by a couple people, neat option but the lower ball joints are not replaceable, meaning $500 and up for a pair of lower control arms to do a rebuild. Not worth the price for the exotica IMO, but just shows just about anything can be made to work if you want it to.
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