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If you decide to replace the DPFE sensor again, consider using online ordering with in store pickup to avoid shipping charges & use discount codes like this one TRT30, here http://www.retailmenot.com/view/adva....com?c=5055807 & with the 30% off, you can come by a BWD DPFE for about $45 at Advance Auto!!!!
Good looking out papaw, thanks again for all your help. I think i'm going to try a new DPFE and i'll unhook the battery for a good 20 minutes this time
After disconnecting the battery B- cable, if we turn on an electrical load, like leave a door open so the dome lights apply load, or turn the light switch to on, or push the cigar lighter in, or switch the blower motor on, ect, it'll safely discharge things quickly, so we don't have to wait 20 min or so. Just remember to turn the electrical loads Off before reconnecting the battery, to prevent voltage spikes & sparks.
If you'll disconnect the battery B- cable before replacing the DPFE, things will be wiped by the time your finished.
Be aware that disconnecting the battery also wipes KAM, the fuel trim tables & the cold & warm idle strategy, the clock, radio presets, ect, in lieu of using a scan tool or code reader to wipe only the stored codes. So if you opt for a battery disconnect, also consider opting to perform the cold & warm idle strategy relearn routine here, to avoid possible drive ability problems. Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - high idle problem
Wiping the old fuel trim tables, which may be corrupt anyway, isn't a problem, as the computer can begin to rebuild them after the DPFE replacement & KAM wipe with a battery disconnect.
More thoughts for consideration. Let us know what you do & how it goes.
i took your advice and used the coupon to get the new sensor from Advance. I went ahead and replaced the vacuum lines while i was at it. I also followed the base idle relearn process and the CEL light is gone. I'll give it a while and hope it doesn't come back . Thanks again for all of your help man! My next step is a new idler pulley and then trying to figure out why my dome light doesn't work , by the way, can i find wiring diagrams here anywhere?
OK, good trouble shooting & repair feedback & to hear all looks positive so far.
If you sign up, AutoZone has some electrical schematics that might cover what your looking for. Make sure your getting power to the dome light, by rotating the dash dimmer switch full up, until it clicks in the "ON" position & see if the dome will light up.
If it will, then look to a door switch, wiring to it, or a GEM problem, as it controls how long the dome light will stay on if you have a battery saver circuit.
If it won't turn on with the dimmer, begin with a fuse check, then a dome lamp filiment check, then a dome light wiring run check.
Yea, it's weird, when i got the truck, it was missing the chrome housing and clear cover. There are 2 map light bulbs on either side but something is missing in the middle, i assume another bulb. I got the diagram from Auto Zone but i'm having a hard time coming up with a bulb type to go in the center. i have no lights when i open the doors, when i toggle the switch to either map light, they both come on very dimly. When i get a minute, i'll check things with a meter. if i run into trouble, i'll start a new thread.
OK, good idea on a new thread for the light problem, so you'll get answers just for it.
The owners manual will have the dome lamp type/PN listed. If you don't have one, you can download it @ no cost from a link posted in the Misc section of our "Tech Info" thread atop this forum.
The dim map lights sound like a voltage drop problem. Could be a B+ feed, or ground problem to the lamps & a under load voltage drop test with your multi-meter can give you a clue on that. If your not familiar with voltage drop testing, click on the link in the last post in the "Battery Tutorial" sticky atop this forums thread index page, for info on how to do voltage drop tests with your multi-meter.
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