I just replaced my EGR Valve todat after pulling code 33 from my truck for EGR Vave not detected opening. I actually have replaced both the EGR valve itself and the EVP Sensor that bolts to the top of it. I now get an instant check engine light on startup, and KOER test returns these codes:
412-Unable to control RPM during high RPM Self Test
327-EGR Valve Pressure transducer/position sesor below minimum voltage.

I tried putting the original evp Sensor back on with no change. I have tested the wiring to the sensor and I am getting 5 volts to the sensor, which is where it should be. The only thing I can think is this.
I replaced the OEM FORD EGR Valve with a Borg-Warner from Pep Boys (Ditto for the EVP Sensor.) The original sensor, when you placed it in the Ford falve, would make contact with the bottom of the EGR Valve internals and compress slightly, giving it a springy feel upon installation. Maybe this contact is necessary to provide proper signal through the EVP? With the BW EGR Valve and Sensor, the sensor never seems to bottom out like the old one did. The old sensor will not bottom out in the new BW Valve either.
I am really needeing to get the truck back on the road- Hopefully Steve83 and others her on FTE will come to my rescue. I'm about ready to go get the OEM one from Ford to see if that does it, but that is a lot more money than Pep Boys.

 

There was a thread no too long ago about the minimum voltage thing. He replaced his EGR with an non-Motorcraft one and he got a check engine light. As soon as he put his old one back one, the check engine light went out. There are a lot of different styles of EGRs and two different styles of EVPs.

 

Well, I went a got another EGR Valve from Schucks this time, and th sensor DOES bottom out on this one. I installed everything, and the Code 327 has disappeared. I stillhave the Code 412 for Inability to control RPM though, which I did not have before? I wonder what that is from? Any Ideas?

 

Bumping to top for visibility...

 

Code 412 was for bad IAC. Replaced it and that is gone too.

 

the only code i am getting is 327. which for egr only. thanks anyway though.

 

Have you tried to activate the EGR with a manual pump? The engine idle shoud be stable until vacuum is applied to the egr valve, then it should falter to the point of stalling. If it idles kind of rough with the engine vacuum attached try disconnecting it to see if the idle improves. If it doe the culprit is most likeley the EVR valve up near the ignition coil. Just follow the vacuum lie from the Egr to it. I found that when I took mine apart (carefully) I found that under the top part there is a small foam air filter that was diery and under the bottom there is a very small spring and a rubber coated metal dick which acts as a valve. There was a bit of grit stuck on the rubber sealing part thereby holding tha valve partly open and supplying a bit of vacuum to the EGr all the time hence the code. Give it a check cuz it's a cheap fix if that is what the problem is.

 

On My 93 I got sick and tired of tracking the EGR problem down and desided to remove the EGR all together and put up with the check engine light. The EGR Tube was leaking anyways so I fixed two problems at once.

 

I really cleared up the engine bay by removing all the smog garbage and busted vacuum lines that have been causing the engine to run erratic. If you are interested in fixing it I would check vacuum lines because when I removed them they came out in peices!

 

I know that, but what I am trying to say is that I am betting that your EVP Sensor is NOT bottoming out on your EGR valve,and therefore your EVP voltage is not sending the right signal.

 

i have already changed the EVR.
in reply to brannma i checked voltage at EPS and it was low. read about 3 volts and what i'm hearing it should be around 5 volts.
my initial question of whether the eps sensor and the plug should be the same color still hasnt been answered. my eps is white while plug black. i will try the eps sensorbut want to make sure i am buying the correct one.

 

dcrewchief: I replied to your issue in your original thread

 

went to autozone today and they couldnt cross reference the the numbers on egr valve. i guess i'll have to visit ford for this one. also the eps they had was gray and not white as i have heard it should be. also the sensor they had didnt reference to the egr pn i had.i didnt think this would be such an ordeal to find the right parts. for $100 for both i want make sure i am getting the right parts.