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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 02:17 PM
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Starting issue-Again

Hello team,
I’m in hot water again!
Background: Previously, I had starting problems when the Engine was hot. The general consensus at that time was an IPR issue. I think so too and I replaced it. While I was at it, I decided to put in new fuel filter as well, although the previous one had less than 2000 miles (one year old) on it. This time, I did a “deep” clean of the filter bucket and I did so by draining out all fuel and cleaning up with rags, carb cleaner, dried it out etc. All well so far and it started up multiple time after the service without issues. However, since the replacement of these two parts, the truck is acting “funny”. It randomly decides to not start on me when cold (like, this morning). There is a round vacuum pump sort (right behind the passenger side battery) that runs and runs. Is it actually detecting and clearing out vacuum? What does this part running indicate? and how to fix it? I have about 100 miles or so after replacement.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 02:20 PM
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The vacuum pump is for the HVAC system, and automatic locking hubs (if you have them). It would have nothing to do with a hard start. How cold is it when you're having problems starting?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 02:44 PM
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Well, that's the thing, the outside temp was in 70s.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 05:49 PM
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Do you have anyway to capture sensor data in the mornings when you start it up?

Have you checked your GPR?

70*F doesn't sound bad but on those first starts the majority of heat for combustion is generated by the Glow Plugs until the cylinders generate enough in the squish band.

How much cranking is required to start it cold when you're having the problems?

When its cranking, does it have a "skip" in it? Suddenly goes read fast and then returns to normal and repeats?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by whitetmw
Do you have anyway to capture sensor data in the mornings when you start it up?

Have you checked your GPR?

70*F doesn't sound bad but on those first starts the majority of heat for combustion is generated by the Glow Plugs until the cylinders generate enough in the squish band.

How much cranking is required to start it cold when you're having the problems?

When its cranking, does it have a "skip" in it? Suddenly goes read fast and then returns to normal and repeats?
I have a tuner that reads few codes.
What is GPR(Glow Plug)? This morning, the batteries died with all the cranking. I had to jump it with my Jeep. It is true, the "Wait to start" light came up and stayed put for extended periods(few more seconds than normal).
How difficult is to replace glow plugs?


I'm unclear on skip part but I will report back.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 07:47 PM
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I assume your truck has CA emissions, yes? You should get a code if a glow plug goes bad if that's the case.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Pikachu
I assume your truck has CA emissions, yes? You should get a code if a glow plug goes bad if that's the case.
No, this truck was first sold in CT and I used it in east before I brought it here.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 07:21 AM
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Tuner? Yank it. When troubleshooting an intermittent problem - the fewer the variables, the easier it gets. Last link in my signature is dedicated to this problem, give it a click.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Vijay
I have a tuner that reads few codes.
What is GPR(Glow Plug)? This morning, the batteries died with all the cranking. I had to jump it with my Jeep. It is true, the "Wait to start" light came up and stayed put for extended periods(few more seconds than normal).
How difficult is to replace glow plugs?


I'm unclear on skip part but I will report back.
See Tugley's post above.

One of the first things you need to do is get your batteries charged to spec, check fluid, connections, clean etc. Use denatured water if they're low.

The WTS Light is NOT an indication the Glow Plug Relay or Glow Plugs are working. It is commanded by the PCM from 1-10 seconds dependent upon oil temperature and barometric pressure.

GPM: Glow plug monitor: Used on 1997 and later California vehicles to report if glow plugs malfunction. If you don't have a CA Truck, you don't have this function.

The probability of all your glow plugs being defective is remote at best. Let's worry about that later in the troubleshooting process.

Once you get the Batteries up and the Tuner/Chip removed, you will need a VOM to begin the troubleshooting process. In the mean time, since you've cranked so much, check ALL the Fuses both in the Engine Bay and under the Dash.

This needs to be approached in a methodical process. It may (will) take some time but I'm sure you will get it figured out with this forums help.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 11:15 AM
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Thanks Guys!
Also, I will look through the suggestions; I have one quick question. When I was cleaning the fuel bowl, there was a wire inside(insulated) and it connects to a sensor outside; I removed and re-installed it back. What is that for? "Water in Fuel" sensor?
 
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 02:02 PM
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That could either be the Water/Fuel or Fuel Heater. Once you've cycled the glow plugs just check Fuse #30 to ensure the prior owner did not disconnect it because of it shorting to ground.
 
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