Hard to start when warm
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 140
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From: Greenville, PA
Hard to start when warm
Hi all
So I have kind of a unique problem (I think). The truck starts up after a 2-3 seconds of cranking when cold and it fires right up.
When it is warm, if I shut it off and run into the store or anything, it cranks for 35-45 seconds then it seems to suddenly crank a little faster and 3-5 seconds later it fires but its like a sluggish fire and chugs for a couple seconds before normal idle.
Sometimes it is a no start though. It will crank and crank until the batteries die with no change in cranking speed until they start dying.
New, non reman, starter
2 new batteries
T500 Hpop
new oil (tried Delo 400, currently Rotella 15-40)
Fuel pressure ~50psi and varies 1-2 psi when trying to start
Please help
So I have kind of a unique problem (I think). The truck starts up after a 2-3 seconds of cranking when cold and it fires right up.
When it is warm, if I shut it off and run into the store or anything, it cranks for 35-45 seconds then it seems to suddenly crank a little faster and 3-5 seconds later it fires but its like a sluggish fire and chugs for a couple seconds before normal idle.
Sometimes it is a no start though. It will crank and crank until the batteries die with no change in cranking speed until they start dying.
New, non reman, starter
2 new batteries
T500 Hpop
new oil (tried Delo 400, currently Rotella 15-40)
Fuel pressure ~50psi and varies 1-2 psi when trying to start
Please help
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Greenville, PA
Only when warm. No problems starting when cold. No problems starting when plugged in for the winter nights either. Only after truck has been running and gotten up to temperature
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 140
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From: Greenville, PA
Only when warm. No problems starting when cold. No problems starting when plugged in for the winter nights either. Only after truck has been running and gotten up to temperature
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,601
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From: Cato Arkansas
I think it might be the ipr orings. The ipr in in front of the fuel bowl on drivers side has a tin nut on it and a electrical connector on it. Takes something like a 22mm wrench to get it out. Should be able to order some o rings for it from riff raff diesel and clean and replace the orings in a few hours
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,080
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I would look at ICP, IPR, and CMP. Using AE will eliminate the ICP, IPR immediately or lead you in the right direction.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 536
Likes: 2
From: N. Va.
Any chance you have a scanner to monitor vitals like Injector control pressure and duty cycle? You can use an app called Torque Pro for cheap. It would be interesting to see these values when cold compared to operating temp. Swamps has a write up that has a section about starting problems when hot but I can't seem to put my finger on it right now.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 140
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From: Greenville, PA
No oil in fuel filter
I replaced the injector o- rings about 8k miles ago
I believe I replaced the icp but don't remember off the top of my head
Replaced cmp in the summer but the bolt had worked its way free which is why I thought bad cmp in first place but was just loose and so would cut out randomly. Might have to check to make sure bolt is still tight
Any way to test the ipr?
I don't have any way to monitor. Will look at the app
I replaced the injector o- rings about 8k miles ago
I believe I replaced the icp but don't remember off the top of my head
Replaced cmp in the summer but the bolt had worked its way free which is why I thought bad cmp in first place but was just loose and so would cut out randomly. Might have to check to make sure bolt is still tight
Any way to test the ipr?
I don't have any way to monitor. Will look at the app
Last edited by Dieselgrowl; Jan 14, 2015 at 06:43 PM. Reason: More info
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 140
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From: Greenville, PA
Now I probably won't like the answer but is there any way to replace poppet without replacing the injectors? Everywhere it looks like injectors are going to be out of my price range
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 536
Likes: 2
From: N. Va.
Next step is to monitor your vitals as mentioned. Get the Torque Pro app for your phone and set it up per the Torque thread on this site started by Tugly. Once you get it up and running we should be able to diagnose your issue.
Hopefully it's the IPR but not sure why it would ***** the bed when at operating temp. How many miles on your rig/injectors?
Edit: Negative on the poppet valve replacement.
Hopefully it's the IPR but not sure why it would ***** the bed when at operating temp. How many miles on your rig/injectors?
Edit: Negative on the poppet valve replacement.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Greenville, PA
Next step is to monitor your vitals as mentioned. Get the Torque Pro app for your phone and set it up per the Torque thread on this site started by Tugly. Once you get it up and running we should be able to diagnose your issue.
Hopefully it's the IPR but not sure why it would ***** the bed when at operating temp. How many miles on your rig/injectors?
Edit: Negative on the poppet valve replacement.
Hopefully it's the IPR but not sure why it would ***** the bed when at operating temp. How many miles on your rig/injectors?
Edit: Negative on the poppet valve replacement.
The truck has 203k on it. Injectors have about that if I had to guess. Pulled the valve covers before and #8 had a different injector AD or AC something. I know it was different than the rest so I don't know if they all were changed or just that one
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,809
Likes: 1,334
From: Elk Grove, CA
I've heard of IPRs dying when warm. The solenoids fail when they get hot. Next time it happens pour some ice down around the IPR and give it a few minutes to cool. If it starts normally that's likely the issue. Solenoids are not available separately, gotta buy the whole enchilada.
Or with the previously mentioned Torque app and a cheap you can read the ICP pressure. If it falls flat when warm you know the IPR is not holding the pressure. Injectors need oil pressure to work.
#8 injector is different from the factory. It's called a long lead as it gives a longer time lead for the initial squirt of fuel. The idea was to quiet injector cackle.
That's plenty of miles on the injectors but there's no reason to think they are done yet. If you had a hard time starting cold, that would be more like tired injectors.
Or with the previously mentioned Torque app and a cheap you can read the ICP pressure. If it falls flat when warm you know the IPR is not holding the pressure. Injectors need oil pressure to work.
#8 injector is different from the factory. It's called a long lead as it gives a longer time lead for the initial squirt of fuel. The idea was to quiet injector cackle.
That's plenty of miles on the injectors but there's no reason to think they are done yet. If you had a hard time starting cold, that would be more like tired injectors.