How do you stop engine from rotating when torqueing Bolts.
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How do you stop engine from rotating when torqueing Bolts.
Have a 2001 Ford ranger 3.0L with an Auto transmission that I’m currently work on replacing the timing chain cover gasket. Looking ahead The question I have is when re-installing the Harmonic Balancer (using a HB installer tool) then torqueing down its bolt as well as re-installing the crankshaft pulley what is the best way to prevent the engine from rotating? Engine is in the vehicle.
Thanks for any input to this question.
Thanks for any input to this question.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Always put it in gear w/ a manual. Or some wedge a block of wood in the flywheel, neither of will work with an AT? Not sure on that. Have changed them in an automatic, remember the problem, can't remember the remedy. (Helpful ain't I?)
Another method is to introduce a good length of rope into a cylinder so it locks up the motor that way. That one never appealed to me enough to try it, for sure.
Another method is to introduce a good length of rope into a cylinder so it locks up the motor that way. That one never appealed to me enough to try it, for sure.
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Don't have one.
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Could you explain this method some more?
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From: suburban atlanta
If you wedge the screwdriver, it may get jammed and then you'll be turning the crank bolt backwards to un-jam the tool.
I believe the safest method is to pick an easily accessible spark plug, remove it, and feed in a couple feet of rope. Rotate the crankshaft by hand {ratchet wrench} in the counterclockwise direction until the rope jams the piston and prevents it from turning.
Make sure to leave some rope hanging out the plug hole or you'll be fishing...
To install, you'll have to un-jam the rope, or just turn the crankshaft in the opposite direction until it jams again.
I would not use an impact wrench unless it had an accurate way to measure the torque. A broken bolt due to over-tightening is a big price to pay if you use an impact.
tom
I believe the safest method is to pick an easily accessible spark plug, remove it, and feed in a couple feet of rope. Rotate the crankshaft by hand {ratchet wrench} in the counterclockwise direction until the rope jams the piston and prevents it from turning.
Make sure to leave some rope hanging out the plug hole or you'll be fishing...
To install, you'll have to un-jam the rope, or just turn the crankshaft in the opposite direction until it jams again.
I would not use an impact wrench unless it had an accurate way to measure the torque. A broken bolt due to over-tightening is a big price to pay if you use an impact.
tom
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Why would I rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise? When I go to install the Balancer & torque the bolts the Crankshaft will rotate Clockwise with the Bolt. Undoing the CCW jam. It should eventually jam going the other way. My concern with this method is about damaging a valve. How would I make sure I'm on the compression stroke?
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From: suburban atlanta
CCW to remove. CW to install. You do the math. One would 'think' you had to REMOVE it before you could then INSTALL it.
If you just rotate CW after R&R the balancer, the piston will go down on the power stroke, will come up on the exhaust with the valve open,etc. To avoid, unjam the rope & remove it. Rotate the crankshaft CCW so it is on compression, feed in rope, rotate CW.
To avoid th valve potential problem, think about where you are in the combustion process, and always jam the rope immediately BEFORE tdc to tighten, and AFTER TDC to remove. It take a bit more, but you will be sure the valves are closed.
tom
Remember: Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey
If you just rotate CW after R&R the balancer, the piston will go down on the power stroke, will come up on the exhaust with the valve open,etc. To avoid, unjam the rope & remove it. Rotate the crankshaft CCW so it is on compression, feed in rope, rotate CW.
To avoid th valve potential problem, think about where you are in the combustion process, and always jam the rope immediately BEFORE tdc to tighten, and AFTER TDC to remove. It take a bit more, but you will be sure the valves are closed.
tom
Remember: Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey
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CCW to remove. CW to install. You do the math. One would 'think' you had to REMOVE it before you could then INSTALL it.
If you just rotate CW after R&R the balancer, the piston will go down on the power stroke, will come up on the exhaust with the valve open,etc. To avoid, unjam the rope & remove it. Rotate the crankshaft CCW so it is on compression, feed in rope, rotate CW.
If you just rotate CW after R&R the balancer, the piston will go down on the power stroke, will come up on the exhaust with the valve open,etc. To avoid, unjam the rope & remove it. Rotate the crankshaft CCW so it is on compression, feed in rope, rotate CW.
Please clarify your term "R&R the Balancer" (Remove & replace?) I'm figuring your referring to piston #1. So once at TDC I'll rotate CCW to lower piston back down the compression stroke. Insert the rope. About 2 feet OK? Then rotate the crank CW back up the compression stroke till it can't rotate anymore. Then finish installing the balancer & torque its bolt. Then install the Pulley & torque the 4 bolts. Once this is done then rotate crank back CCW to remove rope. Does this make it seem I have the step correct?
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With the use of a Harmonic Balancer installer & the rope inserted into cylinder #1. I was able to get the Balancer & the Pulley installed back on. I used about 6-7 feet of 1/4 inch rope. Thanks of everyone who helped.
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