Help! pulling the Harmonic Balancer out
Thread Starter
|
The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 20
From: Caracas, Venezuela
Help! pulling the Harmonic Balancer out
Well, a week or so ago, after 18 years of faithful service, my old balancer decided to take that long overdue trip to Maui... So now i'm on the task of replacing it (check the sig for specifications) and need some help: I managed to take out the pulley (wich was stuck in the balancer) and then the retainer bolt and washer (using two ratchets). I procceded to set the harmonic balancer extractor (duck foot) and after that, i started tightening the main bolt of the extractor inside the balancer, as the instructions detailed... but it reached a point where i turn the engine and the bolt doesn't move (penetrate)... Will it be necesary to use anything else? (might try the two ratchets again, but i don't think it will work) Is there any other way to stop the engine from turning? Help! i'm just so darn tired...
Some aditional info: I have no access (don't own) to any powertools or air compressed tools, and i didn't have the need to take the radiator out to work on the balancer so far.
Some aditional info: I have no access (don't own) to any powertools or air compressed tools, and i didn't have the need to take the radiator out to work on the balancer so far.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,949
Likes: 6
From: Earth
If the balancer is stuck try hitting it with some PB blaster or Liquid Wrench, rap it with a 1/2 drive extension, zap it again, and let it sit overnight.
Did you use the right spacer on the crank snout? The puller's not bottoming out is it?
Did you use the right spacer on the crank snout? The puller's not bottoming out is it?
Thread Starter
|
The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 20
From: Caracas, Venezuela
Well, i managed to place the puller against the balancer, if i recall right, but the mounting bolts aren't bottoming... by a long run.
By spacers what are you referring to?.
Here is a picture of a very similar puller set:
The bolts aren't completely threaded (as you barely notice there) and i had to use the longer ones the set had (because of the thread sizes).
By spacers what are you referring to?.
Here is a picture of a very similar puller set:
The bolts aren't completely threaded (as you barely notice there) and i had to use the longer ones the set had (because of the thread sizes).
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,071
Likes: 36
From: British Columbia
Try putting never seize on the jacking screw threads and tip, this helps reduce friction and thus rotational torque to the engine.
Otherwise, remove the flexplate inspection cover and try to grab the ring gear with visegrips which will get jammed up against something as the engine tries to turn. Possibly a box wrench on one of the convertor nuts will do the same thing.
Otherwise, remove the flexplate inspection cover and try to grab the ring gear with visegrips which will get jammed up against something as the engine tries to turn. Possibly a box wrench on one of the convertor nuts will do the same thing.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,949
Likes: 6
From: Earth
My puller has a ~1/2" thick steel button/spacer that sits in the center of the balancer on the crank snout, the center drive bolt on the puller seats into it so the drive bolt doesn't bottom out in the balancer bolt hole. Maybe yours doesn't use one...
Thread Starter
|
The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 20
From: Caracas, Venezuela
I think i need some shorter mounting bolts so i'll try that, and i did lube the main bolt before it went in.
Thanks for the replies.
P.S.: this is my 700th post... yay!
Thanks for the replies.
P.S.: this is my 700th post... yay!
Thread Starter
|
The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 20
From: Caracas, Venezuela
Baron, check the picture above, just left of the body of the tool, there is a cone tipped piece... Maybe that's the one you're referring to?
Trending Topics
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 3
From: NE Texas
Yes, you need to ensure that the cone piece is pushing against the hole in the end of the crankshaft. It should walk off relatively easily if the center puller bolt is pushing only agains the crankshaft.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 20
From: Caracas, Venezuela
Thanks for all the help, i did everything right this time (i even took some pics for an article describing the procedure later on). The tool worked great so i managed to pull out the balancer easily. Installing the new one wasn't any trouble, i mounted it and then tightened the retainer bolt until it was all in place (i applied a lot of torque in the end... but i lack a torqmeter, so i'll be checking this from time to time).
The bad news: the engine still doesn't sound right (but the sound diminished)... i thought it was the balancer for the appearance of it, i also tried the engine without the belt... and it still sounded wrong (leading me to discard any pulley bearing as the cause). I guess i'll keep the truck parked until i have time to either take it to a mechanic or try and figure it out myself (if the engine is shot, i'll try to get the best configuration to attain torque and hp on a 2500$ budget so i'll be asking a lot around here).
The bad news: the engine still doesn't sound right (but the sound diminished)... i thought it was the balancer for the appearance of it, i also tried the engine without the belt... and it still sounded wrong (leading me to discard any pulley bearing as the cause). I guess i'll keep the truck parked until i have time to either take it to a mechanic or try and figure it out myself (if the engine is shot, i'll try to get the best configuration to attain torque and hp on a 2500$ budget so i'll be asking a lot around here).
Thread Starter
|
The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 20
From: Caracas, Venezuela
It's kinda hard to describe... i'll make a video tomorrow and upload the link here so you guys can hear it, surely someone out there has had the same issue and will give me some pointers.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 526
Likes: 1
From: Spokane, WA
I always remove the dampner bolt, take off the washer then reinstall the bolt a few turns. Then on the puller, I use the flat end on the push bolt. This way I don't take a chance ruining the threads or the front of the crank snout. It also keeps you from having to tight the screws so far down on the puller.
Kenny
Kenny
Thread Starter
|
The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 20
From: Caracas, Venezuela
Well, i checked the bearings today (turned all the pulleys) and the smog air pump is shot and the steering pump bearing is saying "adios", as it has some play. I'll replace those 2 and see if it improves. If not, the engine might need some work (i hope not yet, as i plan on stock in time for some good parts and research more for when the time to rebuild comes).
Anyway, thanks again for all the help!.
Anyway, thanks again for all the help!.
Thread Starter
|
The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 20
From: Caracas, Venezuela
My country has a name you know?, i bet you wouldn't enjoy me calling yours Bushland or Obamaland, still, it's a good thing you're aware about the idiot we have here... Anyway, i can find most parts rather easily, but some can get hard to find as the public didn't find any practical use in replacing them with the OEM config (i.e.: the smog pump, as they don't run smog test here) so spares shops stopped stocking on them.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BadDogKuzz
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
3
Feb 14, 2016 07:45 PM
Colt.S.
335 Series- 5.8/351M, 6.6/400, 351 Cleveland
14
Sep 21, 2015 02:23 PM
timbersteel
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
6
Dec 3, 2013 12:17 PM
