help
pin 4 the pin for charging the trailer battery isn't working, all the other pins are reading the correct voltage. is there a fuse. how do I trouble shoot.
thanks.
the connector is the 7 pin type.

 

Open up the connection look for short or broke wire, there's been a few that have been corroded too, Are you sure it's not on the trailer side, use a volt meter to see what's coming out.

 

The ACC wire, is that a dealer or factory option ? Don't have any power either, figure I have to run a power wire to either an uplifter switch or the battery. Didn't look close enough to see if there was actually a wire there.

 

Open up the back of the plug and check for voltage there. If there isn't as previously said look for a broken connection. There is a relay in the fuse box that could be a culprit. Should be called out in the owners manual.

 

There is a FUSE for that circuit, its 1 of those colored push in style bodies w/a clear window (I carry a spare in Truck cause my dad's blown his a couple times). I cant remember location without going out to look it up but its listed in your owners manual....

 

BTW when checking this make sure the key is ON or you
won't get any power. The reason is that it's on a switched circuit.
Key Off and you have no power to the trailer plug.

Sean

 

Good call Sean, you will still have brake and running lights just no charge power

 

Actually the engine has to be running to show any charging.

 

True 69cj, but it will be zero volts w/ key off, battery volts w/ key on engine off, and charge volts with engine running (and boy isn't that a variable thing unless you have a 150+ amp alt )

 

See, I'm good for something.


Sean

 

I think I am going to wrap this discussion around again to the OP's question about back feeding. It seems to me whether it does or not, he shouldn't have any 12v connection to his 7 pin connector if he used a separate circuit to feed his DC to DC converter. In my case I just repurposed the 12v feed from the 7 pin to 'activate' my Renogy converter; so now it is effectively just a control signal to the Renogy to start converting.

I'm just not sure how or why the OP would be feeding backing anything to the truck's 7 pin connector.

As for the wire gauge discussion, Renogy recommends 4AWG for 11-20' runs so I think for most trucks would be OK with 4 AWG. The 60 amp converter also calls for 4 gauge but with a footnote that there can be a 3% to 10% loss.