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Took my truck to another shop last week and explained what the truck was doing. They just called and said their mechanic has driven the truck at least 3 times a day (and put over 100 miles on it) since I dropped it of but the truck never acted up. They have pulled the codes and run tests to pin point what has been causing the codes and they "believe" I have a bad IDEM. For them to install and re-program a new 1 is $700.
Hmm, I asked the guy about if a new 1 would need programmed and he said they always reprogram them. So, Q#1. Can a new IDM be programmed? Q#2. I'm sure I can use an IDM from another truck but does it have to be the same year as mine (considering mine is an early 99)?
If you know someone with a Powerstroke who could let you borrow an IDM for testing, any IDM from 94.5 through end of the 7.3 production run will work well enough to at least check to see if it's actually the problem or not. If you're planning to buy one anyhow, any early '99 up would be fine in case it does turn out to be the problem and you need to keep it in there.
The Injector Driver Module is a slave device... it's akin to a subwoofer amplifier for your stereo. It just takes the signal in and converts it (more or less) to power your injector solenoids can use. There is no programming to it - they are giving you the boiler plate answer for replacing anything electronic.
So if I have this straight - they drive it every day with no problems, then they say "It must be the IDM, so we'll charge you for that, allegedly program it, slap you on your butt, and send you on your merry way."
"No problems" doesn't sound like an IDM... they are usually more binary - truck go or truck no go.
Hello, I was browsing through this thread and noticed symptoms that I have just started having. I was not able to get through all pages of the thread however, for my 2000 Excursion (7.3) & 275k miles..,The issue was resolved by replacing the CPS...NOTE!!!! DO NOT USE AFTERMARKET CPS !!!! Every person, owners and mechanical both stated that aftermarket CPS's were basically faulty straight out if the box. The part only costs (approx 30~35$) at the dealership. Get two, chances are you will need another, it is an electrical issue. That is why some owners could restart the motor and not have a problem.
The recall number I have is:
07S57
You can check for the issue a couple of ways. If your sensor is Black you should have them update it, the new one is Gray.
Two, if when you first crank the motor, check to see if your RPM moves as soon as you touch the key, if not, you probably have this issue.
Sorry if this was already posted, and for any typos...pickle fingers on a phone keyboard are not a great match.
~D
Sometimes it's just a slight miss like a have a cylinder that's not firing 100%. When it does that I can drive it down the road and I get a surging but it has plenty of power and it might even come out of it while driving. Other times it runs so rough that it shakes the whole truck like it has at least 2 dead cylinders. When it does that if I try to drive it the truck chugs & jerks real bad (I'm talking whiplash) and barely has enough power to pull itself down the road.
Hey I know this is very old reply but I've been trying to look up so stuff because my 7.3 is doing the same exact thing. Right when I fire it up it jerks so bad and there is no power at all! I just went and parked it and came back to it a few times to start it up and it's still the same thing. Can you tell me if you were able to figure out the problem and how I can go about fixing it?!
Today my 99 7.3I f350 2wd just died had this problem before so I thought got truck towed back home and got into it and I noticed the fuel heater was the problem replaced it and the #30 fues now when truck starts it idols rough and when I give it fuel it get worse truck was cold could that be an issue or could my gpr be bad to would that cause the problem
Sometimes it's just a slight miss like a have a cylinder that's not firing 100%. When it does that I can drive it down the road and I get a surging but it has plenty of power and it might even come out of it while driving. Other times it runs so rough that it shakes the whole truck like it has at least 2 dead cylinders. When it does that if I try to drive it the truck chugs & jerks real bad (I'm talking whiplash) and barely has enough power to pull itself down the road.
I know this is a old thread but I wanted to update it, just in case someone has the same issue and comes across it. My problem ended up being a weak HPOP. Which is why it would run fine for about 1000 miles after I changed the oil. I also switched back from Rotella to Motorcraft oil (which is what the original owner had always used in it since new). After going back to Motorcraft oil the engine would go 2000-2500 miles before it started acting up.
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