7.3L Surging & Rough idle problem
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
I have to sign off for the night but I wanted to post this UPDATE:
I removed both valve covers and the UVCH connectors were both plugged in & tight. I unplugged them and all of the pins look good. All of the injectors are the same except the front drivers side, it is bright yellow and has REMAN on it. I had my wife start the truck and it was running a bit rough but not bad. I have oil flow from all 8 injectors but it looked like the drivers side has more flow than the passenger side but that might just be because the oil dump ports are easier to see on the drivers side. I unplugged each injector and noticed a significant change in the engine with each injector. My wife said the tach needle dropped about ½ a notch each time I unplugged an injector. All of the rockers seemed to have the same amount of travel and seemed to move freely.
Any ideas or suggestions before I put the valve covers back on?
I removed both valve covers and the UVCH connectors were both plugged in & tight. I unplugged them and all of the pins look good. All of the injectors are the same except the front drivers side, it is bright yellow and has REMAN on it. I had my wife start the truck and it was running a bit rough but not bad. I have oil flow from all 8 injectors but it looked like the drivers side has more flow than the passenger side but that might just be because the oil dump ports are easier to see on the drivers side. I unplugged each injector and noticed a significant change in the engine with each injector. My wife said the tach needle dropped about ½ a notch each time I unplugged an injector. All of the rockers seemed to have the same amount of travel and seemed to move freely.
Any ideas or suggestions before I put the valve covers back on?
Ohm out your glow plugs directly, and through the VC gasket.
New User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
will not start now
Ok now truck will not start . I did get a po340 cmp code changed it let me back up fix ebps tube did not help was clogged. Start truck ok then not ok so I change out cmp/cpi had spare one it did not help . Got it running give it fuel and got a lot of white smoke then went to black truck started to run really bad then quit so I got a new cpi from adv. I call all over and no body had anything but gray even ford. Put it in will not start cheek fuel pump and fuel is going into bowl now I just dont know what to do help
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 979
Likes: 4
From: Vancouver
One thing that Mr Tugly and so many others have taught me and others at FTE is that without accurate diagnostic information and the ability to interpret that information (often found on this site) fixing these trucks is only possible by replacing part after part to the tune of many bucks! Before a person starts replacing, why not spend the money on AutoEnginuity or other diagnostic tool, which is cheap compared to $100+ per hour at a shop which may or may not know how to diagnose.
Would you accept your doctor guessing how to solve a health problem without the correct info? By posting that info on the site you then enable many great minds to go to work solving the puzzle, just for the fun of helping others and the fun of solving the puzzle. Old style diesels were very simple to troubleshoot. These modern engines are just complicated enough that to ask for ideas on how to fix them without that information is a little bit unrealistic and wasteful of these very generous guys time. I speak up because I respect the effort and continuous daily efforts that so many members put in to this site. Larry
Would you accept your doctor guessing how to solve a health problem without the correct info? By posting that info on the site you then enable many great minds to go to work solving the puzzle, just for the fun of helping others and the fun of solving the puzzle. Old style diesels were very simple to troubleshoot. These modern engines are just complicated enough that to ask for ideas on how to fix them without that information is a little bit unrealistic and wasteful of these very generous guys time. I speak up because I respect the effort and continuous daily efforts that so many members put in to this site. Larry
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,366
Likes: 595
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
You should really start a new thread for your truck. It gets quite confusing for the people trying to help when there are two people, each with their own problem, in one thread.
New User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
sorry
I did not mean to hide jacket your thread it was just that we had the same problemI thought it was too many you like larry so people can afford thatbut yes I'm looking for the right tools I just wanted to see what was going on
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,366
Likes: 595
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
It's just that 2 problems with the same symptoms can end up having completely different causes. It makes it so much easier to keep things straight when it's one truck/problem per thread, lol.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 33
Likes: 1
From: Warsaw area
Tugly, I found the thread on here started by bkuuz1 and read through it but it wasn't much help. I was wondering if you could give me a little more info on the CODY test?
#1. Where is the oil supply hose connected at the head?
#2. How much air pressure do I inject into the line? My air compressor cuts off at 130psi.
#3. I assume I should be watching & listening for oil & air leaks at the injector oil dump ports?
#1. Where is the oil supply hose connected at the head?
#2. How much air pressure do I inject into the line? My air compressor cuts off at 130psi.
#3. I assume I should be watching & listening for oil & air leaks at the injector oil dump ports?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,760
Likes: 27
From: Hampton, Maryland.
Pull the lines out of the side of the HPOP, use a rubber tipped air gun and rag over the connection so you don't get sprayed. 120psi is fine. Keep pressure on for several seconds, because if you have a leak, it may take that long for the air pressure to drive out the oil.you may have to squeeze the trigger a couple of times while maintaining a good seal on the line.
If it's an o-ring, this is what you will hear after a few seconds.
When you pull the injectors, you will more than likely see something like this:
If it's an o-ring, this is what you will hear after a few seconds.
When you pull the injectors, you will more than likely see something like this:
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 33
Likes: 1
From: Warsaw area
The CODY test is a PAIN IN THE A$$, and messy!!! But, my truck passed it.
Seems like it would be a more effective test if you could hook a pressure gauge in the system. That way you could watch the gauge and see how much pressure your putting in the system and if the pressure is holding or dropping.
Seems like it would be a more effective test if you could hook a pressure gauge in the system. That way you could watch the gauge and see how much pressure your putting in the system and if the pressure is holding or dropping.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,366
Likes: 595
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
You could do that with the right fittings and a valve. I believe the fittings in the heads are -6 STC to #5 ORB (could be to #6 ORB, I don't remember for sure). With the right fittings, you can also hook up a porta-power filled with motor oil to the head for testing at higher pressure.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,366
Likes: 595
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
If you wanted to go to the trouble of moving the ICP sensor from head to head and making an extension for the wiring harness, sure, that would work fine. But you'd still need to have a valve on the air supply line and the right fitting for the head, so why not simply add a $15 mechanical gauge while putting the fittings together and be done with it? Charge the head with air, close the valve, and check the gauge in a while. I may even have a hose with a female STC fitting on one end and a 1/4 NPT on the other made up for this purpose.
I'm not trying to discourage ownership and use of a scan tool, and I do think it's essential for diagnosing and working on these engines. I just don't think it's the best tool for this particular test.
I'm not trying to discourage ownership and use of a scan tool, and I do think it's essential for diagnosing and working on these engines. I just don't think it's the best tool for this particular test.